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For +12V switched IGN power use an "add-a-fuse" pictured above in any of the indicated positions in the photo below.
The add-a-fuse power output wire will be going towards the rear of the car for proper operation.
For +12V switched IGN power use an "add-a-fuse" pictured above in any of the indicated positions in the photo below.
The add-a-fuse power output wire will be going towards the rear of the car for proper operation.
This is incredible detail, thank you so much for going to the trouble of explaining all of this.
You might find another +!2V source with your Digital Multi Meter once you fold back the rug.
With the add-a-fuse installed in the fuse box, the cover will not go back on normally. The
add-a-fuse sticks out about 7/16 of an inch and the cover clearance is minimal.
You might find another +!2V source with your Digital Multi Meter once you fold back the rug.
With the add-a-fuse installed in the fuse box, the cover will not go back on normally. The
add-a-fuse sticks out about 7/16 of an inch and the cover clearance is minimal.
ahh, I'm glad you mentioned it, I was wondering about fitment. I'll dig around with my multimeter and see what I find. Would I need to add an inline fuse to whatever wire I find or would it already have a fuse on any line that's already there?
Actually, that fuse box cover is part of the carpet and not tightly secured. You might get the extra bit of clearance you need.
Wherever you get the +12V power, I would add a inline fuse. I doubt that the TR-7's would short out but it's cheap protection.
I haven't had time to tackle this yet, but it occured to me that maybe I should do the quarter window mod while I'm at it.
What is the best way to control the quarter windows without adding any buttons to the car?
I read through this thread where they used a russian device to do it, but I don't know where to get this device. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc4...n-edition.html
Is there something clever like the TR7's that would do the trick or does someone sell something that does it and doesn't interfere with top operation like the russian device?
it occured to me that maybe I should do the quarter window mod while I'm at it.
Doing both would be a tough for me. You are already have your car disassembled, But I always think it is better to do one electronic project at a time. If you do both, and there is a problem, it is often very hard to diagnose which part is causing the problem. Especially in your case where you are "blazing a new trail" and the fact the "quarter window mod" and the top, overlap in operation.
Also if you are not confident in electronics, it is even tougher, since if things go wrong, you will have to troubleshoot it yourself
Doing both would be a tough for me. You are already have your car disassembled, But I always think it is better to do one electronic project at a time. If you do both, and there is a problem, it is often very hard to diagnose which part is causing the problem. Especially in your case where you are "blazing a new trail" and the fact the "quarter window mod" and the top, overlap in operation.
Also if you are not confident in electronics, it is even tougher, since if things go wrong, you will have to troubleshoot it yourself
That's a very good point. Maybe I should do the top first and then the quarter window mod after i'm sure that's functioning correctly.
To anyone who has the quarter window mod... how is the wind noise at highway speed with just the quarter windows down (and top up)? That's kind of my main motivation, the front windows are SO loud when they're down on the highway.
I believe the main reason for this mod was to be able to have the top up and get all the windows down. The car just looks better that way. The other aspect for the mod was to be able to have the top down and all the windows up on a chilly day.
From what I have read, due to the way the windows travel up and down, there is a specific sequence that Lexus implements via computer control. Specifically, the front windows must be down before the rears are allowed to move down. Conversely, the rear windows must go up before the front windows go up. The thought being that the windows could bind or damage the molding if not operated in that sequence. If this is true, then operating the rear quarter windows while the front windows are up could cause problems. Someone that has done the rear quarter mod via relays or standard window control modules like the Directed 535T or 529T and a switch could help verify this info.
We must also remember that Lexus designed many safeties into the convertible top system. As reported by members, the rear quarter window mod "upsets" the SC430 when used. One reported sequence was rolling up the rear windows while the top was down. The top would not operate ( close ) until the rear windows were rolled down and the car was turned off and restarted, resetting the computers These issues would happen with any system that altered the rear windows location when the top was down. Lexus designed the system/control logic and doesn't want or expect any changes. Not a big deal or show stopper, just something to be aware of. After a restart everything is back to normal. No ECL's, etc.
I'm not sure if it is in production or available in the states, but the Russian module mentioned above would be a better way to go for a few reasons. First, it's a single module. Second, it appears all the necessary connections are in the trunk area and not by the rear quarter window motors. Thirdly, their system has built in "anti-pinch" and can move both rear windows at the same time like the factory system does with top open and close sequences. Not sure what the Russian module costs but two PAC TR-7's and one DEI 535T would be around $100.
I'm not sure if it is in production or available in the states, but the Russian module mentioned above would be a better way to go for a few reasons. First, it's a single module. Second, it appears all the necessary connections are in the trunk area and not by the rear quarter window motors. Thirdly, their system has built in "anti-pinch" and can move both rear windows at the same time like the factory system does with top open and close sequences. Not sure what the Russian module costs but two PAC TR-7's and one DEI 535T would be around $100.
When I wrap up some of the other things I'm working on (ECU Tune still ongoing) I'll start trying to track down someone in Russia who can sell me one of these maybe. I'll report back if I manage to get one.
I've had really great luck working with guys on drive2.ru for other things (rear STB brace was a homerun!)
The rear quarter windows are such a minor thing, if it can be done without causing any issues and without costing too much, I'll give it a shot. If not, not really that big a deal, I keep the top down probably like 85% of the time.
Also we with other guys from Russian sc club asked him to made controller for remote top down/up from factory key. I hope he can do it, but seems like it is not interesting for him, sc is rare car, it will not be much orders.
07-17-20, 12:48 PM
