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I posted another thread about key fobs and alarms, which always gets me thinking about luxlink and the like. However, I think I'd be satisfied with a 1-touch button for the top. I know you can add one-touch capability to power windows, couldn't we do the same thing with the top? Would a 1-touch window module work? The wiring for the top is pretty easy to access, the climate control literally just pops out and you can access the wires behind it.
Does anyone here have any insight on what unit you would get and how you would wire 1-touch operation for the top?
If we have some good data and it's not expensive, I wouldn't mind being the guinea pig and documenting my experience for others.
We can't be the only car with a convertible that isn't one touch, does anyone know of any other convertibles where people have added this?
Joe, they stopped making the luxlink awhile back, but when our member from russia posted about putting an android screen in the display unit, he also posted about a russian version of luxlink. It might be better to go that route than re-invent the wheel.
For some reason I'm only seeing 1/4window mod information in that thread, but that's pretty cool as well.
I'd be up for a $45 experiment if someone who really knows windows/alarms/etc can take a look and tell me if this would likely work for the top. I don't know if there's something different in the way the top works vs a window motor.
I believe this could be easily done in a couple of ways. Below is one option for about $20.
First you would have to decide if you wanted to use the OPEN/CLOSE button on the center stack or a
user installed button. Using the SC430 control button is OK but I would opt for a double press
rather than a single press to prevent fat-finger mistakes. The operation would still have to follow
the same rules as the car. Engine running, vehicle not moving and hopefully on a fairly level surface.
As you can see they are fairly adaptable for many uses. I would set it up for Feature 15 operation.
The programming would be two (-) input pulses within 5 seconds generates a 31 second (-) ouput.
The TR-7's Brown wire would be connected to a momentary contact switch. The TR-7 White wire
would be connected to the SC430 Top Open wire in the Driver Kick Panel. The 31 seconds output
time might need to be adjusted slightly depending on the specific vehicles' actual open time.
If you wanted to do the same thing for Top CLOSE a second TR-7 module would be needed with it's own
control switch. Similar Feature 15 programming with a different top close time of 21 seconds.
A single pole, dual throw momentary rocker switch would be a option in this scenario.
I believe this could be easily done in a couple of ways. Below is one option for about $20.
First you would have to decide if you wanted to use the OPEN/CLOSE button on the center stack or a
user installed button. Using the SC430 control button is OK but I would opt for a double press
rather than a single press to prevent fat-finger mistakes. The operation would still have to follow
the same rules as the car. Engine running, vehicle not moving and hopefully on a fairly level surface.
As you can see they are fairly adaptable for many uses. I would set it up for Feature 15 operation.
The programming would be two (-) input pulses within 5 seconds generates a 31 second (-) ouput.
The TR-7's Brown wire would be connected to a momentary contact switch. The TR-7 White wire
would be connected to the SC430 Top Open wire in the Driver Kick Panel. The 31 seconds output
time might need to be adjusted slightly depending on the specific vehicles' actual open time.
If you wanted to do the same thing for Top CLOSE a second TR-7 module would be needed with it's own
control switch. Similar Feature 15 programming with a different top close time of 21 seconds.
A single pole, dual throw momentary rocker switch would be a option in this scenario.
If you’re using the factory top open button, why would you need a momentary contact switch? Idk anything about this stuff, just don’t want to end up having to press two buttons.
Sorry, wasn't detailed enough. The new switch would control the top with a one or two press function and leave the cars normal switch alone. Not necessary to use both. If you wanted to open the top part way to clean the inside rear window, etc, the factory switch would work fine. If you wanted the top to open completely you could press and hold the normal button or do a quick double press on the new switch.
I believe it would be possible to have the TR-7 monitor the normal switch for a quick double press but the wire it would be monitoring would be the same one that it uses ( applies the Open output signal ) to open the top. I'm not sure if that would confuse the TR-7. Of course, the other TR-7 "Open" output could be used to interrupt the TR-7's monitored input signal wire during the open time period and prevent any issues.
Personally, I would opt for a nice ON-OFF-ON momentary rocker switch mounted in a good location and use a single press to open and close the top.
Sorry, wasn't detailed enough. The new switch would control the top with a one or two press function and leave the cars normal switch alone. Not necessary to use both. If you wanted to open the top part way to clean the inside rear window, etc, the factory switch would work fine. If you wanted the top to open completely you could press and hold the normal button or do a quick double press on the new switch.
I believe it would be possible to have the TR-7 monitor the normal switch for a quick double press but the wire it would be monitoring would be the same one that it uses ( applies the Open output signal ) to open the top. I'm not sure if that would confuse the TR-7. Of course, the other TR-7 "Open" output could be used to interrupt the TR-7's monitored input signal wire during the open time period and prevent any issues.
Personally, I would opt for a nice ON-OFF-ON momentary rocker switch mounted in a good location and use a single press to open and close the top.
This is absolutely phenomenal information! Thank you for taking the time to post this.
So let me see if I understand. If you did a ON-OFF-ON momentary rocker switch, 1 ON would be for opening and the other ON would be for closing? each going to their own TR-7 unit, correct?
Also, the 2-press idea is way better, you definitely wouldn't want the top swinging open on an accidental tap from the passenger.
I really would like to reuse the original switch if possible, but if that's going to be an issue I suppose I could find a clever way to hide a switch. I just think the interior would look cleaner.
Anyone happen to have a pic of the driverside kick panel? I'll have to pull mine off and take a look at some point.
The only photo I have of the Drivers Kick Panel is included in the SC430 Remote Pictorial listed
above. It does not show the entire kick panel area and is more of a close-up of the White 24 pin
connector, located below and to the rear of the fuse box. You can see the Parking Brake pedal
that will give some position reference.
Below is a diagram of the setup using two TR-7's and a SPDT momentary ON-OFF-ON switch.
By using switched IGN as the power input for the TR-7's it would cut down on battery drain while
the car is parked. Not sure but I think each TR-7 might draw 5mA in a quiescent state. We have
enough issues with battery drain. The added 5 Amp fuse on the power input is for safety.
The powering off and on of the TR-7's shouldn't be a problem, they will maintain their programming
and option settings. With the separate control switch you could program the TR-7's for "one-press"
operation. Two presses would give an added margin of safety.
I did a quick test using one TR-7. I programmed it to Feature 15 operation with "two-press" input
and a 10 second output going to a +12V buzzer. It worked fine with several power off's in between
tests to simulate the car being turned off.
I also tried applying another double pulse input while it was doing the 10 second output that had no
affect on the output. This leads me to believe it would be possible to use the factory top switch as the
monitored input ( Brown wire ) to the TR-7 and omit the SPDT switch.
The only photo I have of the Drivers Kick Panel is included in the SC430 Remote Pictorial listed
above. It does not show the entire kick panel area and is more of a close-up of the White 24 pin
connector, located below and to the rear of the fuse box. You can see the Parking Brake pedal
that will give some position reference.
Below is a diagram of the setup using two TR-7's and a SPDT momentary ON-OFF-ON switch.
By using switched IGN as the power input for the TR-7's it would cut down on battery drain while
the car is parked. Not sure but I think each TR-7 might draw 5mA in a quiescent state. We have
enough issues with battery drain. The added 5 Amp fuse on the power input is for safety.
The powering off and on of the TR-7's shouldn't be a problem, they will maintain their programming
and option settings. With the separate control switch you could program the TR-7's for "one-press"
operation. Two presses would give an added margin of safety.
I did a quick test using one TR-7. I programmed it to Feature 15 operation with "two-press" input
and a 10 second output going to a +12V buzzer. It worked fine with several power off's in between
tests to simulate the car being turned off.
I also tried applying another double pulse input while it was doing the 10 second output that had no
affect on the output. This leads me to believe it would be possible to use the factory top switch as the
monitored input ( Brown wire ) to the TR-7 and omit the SPDT switch.
This is fantastic! Thank you again! I'm going to buy a pair of TR-7's and give it a try!
I think this is the pic you mentioned of the kick panel:
Is there an easy spot to grab the +12V IGN down in that area? Maybe like the cigarette lighter wire or fusebox or something? and just ground to chassis, correct?
Yes, that is the lower kick panel photo. It's a little stiff but it's just a matter of popping off a trim piece and rolling down the carpet that extends up the kick panel to access that area.
As for a switched IGN +12V source, the DKP fuse box is right there. I would check to see is there are any unused slots that are available with switched power. Short of that, using an "add a fuse" circuit would be next best. It's only a 5 Amp circuit being added.
Chassis Ground should be available in the DKP, too.
Think I would get a ON-OFF-ON SPDT momentary switch for $2 and get everything tested and working first. The switch wouldn't need to be mounted, just insulate the wires and let it hang. Then you could cut the Brown wires off the switch and connect to the White wires to test. Your diagram is correct. Definitely want to program for a "two-press" input.
Yes, that is the lower kick panel photo. It's a little stiff but it's just a matter of popping off a trim piece and rolling down the carpet that extends up the kick panel to access that area.
As for a switched IGN +12V source, the DKP fuse box is right there. I would check to see is there are any unused slots that are available with switched power. Short of that, using an "add a fuse" circuit would be next best. It's only a 5 Amp circuit being added.
Chassis Ground should be available in the DKP, too.
Think I would get a ON-OFF-ON SPDT momentary switch for $2 and get everything tested and working first. The switch wouldn't need to be mounted, just insulate the wires and let it hang. Then you could cut the Brown wires off the switch and connect to the White wires to test. Your diagram is correct. Definitely want to program for a "two-press" input.
Excellent, will do! And yes, I totally agree on the two-press input, much better idea than 1 touch.
Excellent, will do! And yes, I totally agree on the two-press input, much better idea than 1 touch.
Im gonna go for this too, Joe, but I’d bet you beat me to it. This should be a great fix for one of my biggest gripes with the car. Using the factory button is the way to go, long term.
07-15-20, 11:45 AM
One touch operation for the top
