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Good job getting the bar to pass through. It really is surprising when it finally "pops" through.
I don't recall the bushings being a fitment problem with the stock SC430 brackets. Did you order the same bushings as I used? Mine were these with 17 mm selected. https://www.shopfigs.com/v3/index.ph...HANE%20BUSHING
Thanks Seattle SCone. I just realized I ordered the ISX50 bushing my mistake. Ugh. I used the stock ISF bushing that came with the ISF 17mm bar for the install. I can order the correct bushing in the future.
Here is a picture of the OEM and the ISF anti swaybar (I painted it red). (this picture is not mine but from DarthSid https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc4...ml#post8604543)
There is a yellow paint mark on the right side.( driver oriented)
Here is the front OEM & Blue TRD (again, I painted red) anti sway bar. That blue mark is on the right side (driver oriented) on the OEM bar even though it appears to be left on the picture.
Last edited by digitatc; 11-24-20 at 12:58 PM.
Reason: correction
I think my rear ISF stabilizer bar IS in backwards. Must have flipped it around somewhere during the feed through maneuvers.
Have to recheck if that interferes with the central support during maximal wheel excursion.
I think my rear ISF stabilizer bar IS in backwards. Must have flipped it around somewhere during the feed through maneuvers.
Have to recheck if that interferes with the central support during maximal wheel excursion.
FYI: My ISF 17mm rear sway bar came with no orientation marks. It was a used unit.
Flipped my rear bar around to correct orientation. Makes sense. In correct orientation, the bar’s hump is rotationally biased downward, away from thicker portion of central brace support. That gives more clearance.
I didn’t see any evidence of impingement in on my bar but just as well to have it correct
Marking the right end of the original bars prior to removal remains a good idea to prevent inadvertently flipping things
Flipped my rear bar around to correct orientation. Makes sense. In correct orientation, the bar’s hump is rotationally biased downward, away from thicker portion of central brace support. That gives more clearance.
I didn’t see any evidence of impingement in on my bar but just as well to have it correct
Marking the right end of the original bars prior to removal remains a good idea to prevent inadvertently flipping things
From the pictures, I can see how it is easy to install them in backwards. There is only a slight visual difference in the straight, horizontal portion of the bar.
The FIGS reduction spacer have an internal measurement of 11mm rather than 12mm giving 1mm of play, so I used the aluminum rod cut to 6mm length which worked perfect.
Ready for some twisty roads!!
Do you happen to know the width of the reduction spacers? I'm going to have my machinist friend whip me up a set.
I didn't mic the sway bar thiickness, but I made my initial slices at 6 mm thick on the aluminum tubing. Touch up with a file took just a little bit off that to get fit. It just needs to be same thickness or slightly thinner than your sway bar flat section so the nut engages on the sway bar instead of the reduction busihing.
The sway bar upgrades and 10K/10K coilovers let my SC430 feel like it is on rails going around curves. Really enjoying that!
I didn't mic the sway bar thiickness, but I made my initial slices at 6 mm thick on the aluminum tubing. Touch up with a file took just a little bit off that to get fit. It just needs to be same thickness or slightly thinner than your sway bar flat section so the nut engages on the sway bar instead of the reduction busihing.
The sway bar upgrades and 10K/10K coilovers let my SC430 feel like it is on rails going around curves. Really enjoying that!
Digitatc wrote that Stock SC430 spring rates were 4.8 / 5.8 in 2002"
Lexus went softer in 2006.
Figs Engineering recommended my 10 kg/mm front and 10 kg/mm rear rates to bring it closer to the feel of an Aston. Sporty, long distance cruiser that likes turns but doesn’t beat you up despite hundreds of miles in a day.
They got it pretty dang close based on how it feels on the road.
Even ended up less kidney jarring than my wife’s Porsches were. Course you do have to dial in the damping for the right effect
Lying on the ground to get my rear ISF sway bar flat thicknesses, I get 6.85 and 7.05 mm left vs right. However, the "flat" sections seem to be slightly concave and the actual thickness at the hole is a bit smaller. I think 6.0 mm should be a pretty safe thickness to ask from your machinist friend. At worst you'll need to take a few minutes to knock off a few mics with a metal file.
If you use coilvers and drop the car about an inch or more, just use the ISF links so you don't have to use the sleeve. A good candidate is the Mevotech MS86836 with Zerk fitting
How are you guys who are lowering your cars managing to keep camber from going super negative. Even at stock height, my rear cambers won't adjust much more positive than -1.7
Drop lower and camber gets even more negative. Are you using something like the SPC camber plates in back and camber adjustable UCA's in front?
Last edited by Seattle SCone; 12-04-20 at 12:16 PM.
Installed both Front and Rear bars tonight. Thanks for the advice Seattle SCone!! I was about to give up on the rear bar and then "Pop" in she went!!
I used the ISF 17mm rear bar and the FIGS 17mm bushings seemed way too large to fit using the stock bar clamps. Is there a secret there to using them with the stock clamps? I was able to squeeze the ISF stock 17mm bushings in the stock SC420 clamps.
The FIGS reduction spacer have an internal measurement of 11mm rather than 12mm giving 1mm of play, so I used the aluminum rod cut to 6mm length which worked perfect.
Ready for some twisty roads!!
I will look into it, but we always allow some tolerance especially since these holes are rough cut, but it should be snug.
Mike
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11-24-20, 11:19 AM
