Figs Engineering Front Sway Bar
#46
Thanks so much.
David
#47
The Maker
iTrader: (11)
Thank you for your reply. I was surprised to see 1mm of play on each end. I am using the spacer made from the aluminum tube as Seattle SCone devised. Would love to use your reduction spacers if you come up with a revision. They are very high quality, just too much free play.
Thanks so much.
David
Thanks so much.
David
Mike
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Redefining Lexus Aftermarket Parts Since 2001
-- We are your Lexus suspension experts--
BCR - KW - PENSKE - OHLINS - HKS - GREDDY - STANCEPARTS
Links - Arms - SuperPro Poly Bushings - Solid Bearing Conversions - Motor Mounts
RB BBK's and 2P Rotors, G-Loc pads, Radium Fuel Systems
Custom Fabrication Design and Machining - Industrial 3D Printing - Laser Cutting
2018 USTCC Sportsman Class Champions - 2018 NASA ST5 National Champions
#48
Lying on the ground to get my rear ISF sway bar flat thicknesses, I get 6.85 and 7.05 mm left vs right. However, the "flat" sections seem to be slightly concave and the actual thickness at the hole is a bit smaller. I think 6.0 mm should be a pretty safe thickness to ask from your machinist friend. At worst you'll need to take a few minutes to knock off a few mics with a metal file.
Regarding rear camber, I came across this thread in my search. I was planning on going the SPC (SPC67510) route once I order my coilovers. It sound like if you don't go too low, you shouldn't have issues with toe like Iamsam did. At least that's what Bgw reported.
Are you running the SPC UCA's too? Or was your front camber fine without them? If you're interested, you can get them from Rock Auto for under $300 for the pair. MEVOTECH CMS861207 is the same as SPC 722701.
#49
The Maker
iTrader: (11)
FWIW the rear sway bar hole is 12.9mm, the factory endlink for an IS-F is M12 which will come in around 11.8mm. So that is our basis of the spacer design.
__________________
Redefining Lexus Aftermarket Parts Since 2001
-- We are your Lexus suspension experts--
BCR - KW - PENSKE - OHLINS - HKS - GREDDY - STANCEPARTS
Links - Arms - SuperPro Poly Bushings - Solid Bearing Conversions - Motor Mounts
RB BBK's and 2P Rotors, G-Loc pads, Radium Fuel Systems
Custom Fabrication Design and Machining - Industrial 3D Printing - Laser Cutting
2018 USTCC Sportsman Class Champions - 2018 NASA ST5 National Champions
Redefining Lexus Aftermarket Parts Since 2001
-- We are your Lexus suspension experts--
BCR - KW - PENSKE - OHLINS - HKS - GREDDY - STANCEPARTS
Links - Arms - SuperPro Poly Bushings - Solid Bearing Conversions - Motor Mounts
RB BBK's and 2P Rotors, G-Loc pads, Radium Fuel Systems
Custom Fabrication Design and Machining - Industrial 3D Printing - Laser Cutting
2018 USTCC Sportsman Class Champions - 2018 NASA ST5 National Champions
#50
Advanced
Thread Starter
These are what my DIY aluminum reduction bushings look like when sliced off the tubing with a hacksaw. Didn't need to be fancy or pretty. You can't see them once installed.
I adjusted length atop a metal file until flush with sway bar flats. Don't want them too long or nut and stud won't engage against the actual sway bar.
BTW, don't final insertion until AFTER you have passed the sway bar into position. You don't want one to drop out and disappear for a while.
I adjusted length atop a metal file until flush with sway bar flats. Don't want them too long or nut and stud won't engage against the actual sway bar.
BTW, don't final insertion until AFTER you have passed the sway bar into position. You don't want one to drop out and disappear for a while.
#51
Advanced
Thread Starter
Posting this because related threads can get detached form each other on the forum.
In case anybody follows makes the aluminum reduction fittings like mine....
My car developed a difficult to track down, intermittent soft clink noise in the rear that would SOMETIMES occur at <15 mph and only on very shallow road surface changes. During my workup for the noise, I checked the rear sways with vigorous pushing/pulling of its ends. I therefore ruled out the rear sway bar as the noise source. 6 weeks of searching and fixing up various things that might be the noise source yielded no resolution. Eventually, obtained a Steelman ChassisEar and that finally narrowed the noise to be the rear sway bar. That hunt is covered in https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc4...se-solved.html
Tips to avoid this clink noise issue.
1. Be sure to make your reduction fittings shorter than the sway bar is thick. Shorter allows the stud and nut to tightly engage the actual sway bar, not the the reduction fitting. My issue was mostly the nut not being tight enough to prevent slipping.
2. Mushroom the aluminum reduction fitting slightly by standing them on end upon an anvil. Then hit end lightly with a hammer. I mushroomed mine to be press fit into the rear sway bar bolt hole and tight around the link's stud. The stud and its nut can readily press the mushroomed fitting into the sway bar. Tighter fit reduces risk of motion even if stud nut is looser.
3. Torque up the sway bar link's stud and nut tight so it sway bar cannot slide beneath the nut's surface. This was my main problem.
4. Check for adequate tightness of the links with the sway bar bracket (of the side being checked) DETACHED. Listen for a click as you push/pull the tie stud connection. I specify detached because my sway bar to stud connection made no noise with manual manipulation while both brackets were attached. Only with a bracket detached could I elicit a click with manual manipulation.
In case anybody follows makes the aluminum reduction fittings like mine....
My car developed a difficult to track down, intermittent soft clink noise in the rear that would SOMETIMES occur at <15 mph and only on very shallow road surface changes. During my workup for the noise, I checked the rear sways with vigorous pushing/pulling of its ends. I therefore ruled out the rear sway bar as the noise source. 6 weeks of searching and fixing up various things that might be the noise source yielded no resolution. Eventually, obtained a Steelman ChassisEar and that finally narrowed the noise to be the rear sway bar. That hunt is covered in https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc4...se-solved.html
Tips to avoid this clink noise issue.
1. Be sure to make your reduction fittings shorter than the sway bar is thick. Shorter allows the stud and nut to tightly engage the actual sway bar, not the the reduction fitting. My issue was mostly the nut not being tight enough to prevent slipping.
2. Mushroom the aluminum reduction fitting slightly by standing them on end upon an anvil. Then hit end lightly with a hammer. I mushroomed mine to be press fit into the rear sway bar bolt hole and tight around the link's stud. The stud and its nut can readily press the mushroomed fitting into the sway bar. Tighter fit reduces risk of motion even if stud nut is looser.
3. Torque up the sway bar link's stud and nut tight so it sway bar cannot slide beneath the nut's surface. This was my main problem.
4. Check for adequate tightness of the links with the sway bar bracket (of the side being checked) DETACHED. Listen for a click as you push/pull the tie stud connection. I specify detached because my sway bar to stud connection made no noise with manual manipulation while both brackets were attached. Only with a bracket detached could I elicit a click with manual manipulation.
#52
Posting this because related threads can get detached form each other on the forum.
In case anybody follows makes the aluminum reduction fittings like mine....
My car developed a difficult to track down, intermittent soft clink noise in the rear that would SOMETIMES occur at <15 mph and only on very shallow road surface changes. During my workup for the noise, I checked the rear sways with vigorous pushing/pulling of its ends. I therefore ruled out the rear sway bar as the noise source. 6 weeks of searching and fixing up various things that might be the noise source yielded no resolution. Eventually, obtained a Steelman ChassisEar and that finally narrowed the noise to be the rear sway bar. That hunt is covered in https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc4...se-solved.html
Tips to avoid this clink noise issue.
1. Be sure to make your reduction fittings shorter than the sway bar is thick. Shorter allows the stud and nut to tightly engage the actual sway bar, not the the reduction fitting. My issue was mostly the nut not being tight enough to prevent slipping.
2. Mushroom the aluminum reduction fitting slightly by standing them on end upon an anvil. Then hit end lightly with a hammer. I mushroomed mine to be press fit into the rear sway bar bolt hole and tight around the link's stud. The stud and its nut can readily press the mushroomed fitting into the sway bar. Tighter fit reduces risk of motion even if stud nut is looser.
3. Torque up the sway bar link's stud and nut tight so it sway bar cannot slide beneath the nut's surface. This was my main problem.
4. Check for adequate tightness of the links with the sway bar bracket (of the side being checked) DETACHED. Listen for a click as you push/pull the tie stud connection. I specify detached because my sway bar to stud connection made no noise with manual manipulation while both brackets were attached. Only with a bracket detached could I elicit a click with manual manipulation.
In case anybody follows makes the aluminum reduction fittings like mine....
My car developed a difficult to track down, intermittent soft clink noise in the rear that would SOMETIMES occur at <15 mph and only on very shallow road surface changes. During my workup for the noise, I checked the rear sways with vigorous pushing/pulling of its ends. I therefore ruled out the rear sway bar as the noise source. 6 weeks of searching and fixing up various things that might be the noise source yielded no resolution. Eventually, obtained a Steelman ChassisEar and that finally narrowed the noise to be the rear sway bar. That hunt is covered in https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc4...se-solved.html
Tips to avoid this clink noise issue.
1. Be sure to make your reduction fittings shorter than the sway bar is thick. Shorter allows the stud and nut to tightly engage the actual sway bar, not the the reduction fitting. My issue was mostly the nut not being tight enough to prevent slipping.
2. Mushroom the aluminum reduction fitting slightly by standing them on end upon an anvil. Then hit end lightly with a hammer. I mushroomed mine to be press fit into the rear sway bar bolt hole and tight around the link's stud. The stud and its nut can readily press the mushroomed fitting into the sway bar. Tighter fit reduces risk of motion even if stud nut is looser.
3. Torque up the sway bar link's stud and nut tight so it sway bar cannot slide beneath the nut's surface. This was my main problem.
4. Check for adequate tightness of the links with the sway bar bracket (of the side being checked) DETACHED. Listen for a click as you push/pull the tie stud connection. I specify detached because my sway bar to stud connection made no noise with manual manipulation while both brackets were attached. Only with a bracket detached could I elicit a click with manual manipulation.
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