Poqman

I have a 2006 that the front springs are starting to sag and the tires are starting to rub the fender when entering sloped driveway aprons. The struts are not leaking, but the front end really takes a jolt when hitting potholes. Has anyone replaced the front springs and struts with coilovers, but leave the rear as original?

Seattle SCone

Most likely the new front coil overs are going to be higher spring rate than your old rear struts. I'd be concerned that would make the car even more prone to understeer - which is the opposite of what you want on the car.

I'd swap them out all around to gain improved handling balance instead of making it worse.

grabber2

I agree. you can replace just the front if you plant to replace it with the OEM spring and shock.

Poqman

I would be leaning towards staying OEM if you can't mix coilovers in the front and OEM in the rear. Since it has sagged in the front, then front springs, struts, bumper, insulator and upper supports look like it will run just over $900 in parts at MYLParts.com. That's a crazy amount with me doing all the labor. Anyone found better deals?

grabber2

Yes, the OEM shock & strut are not cheap unless you are looking for a used one. Keep in mind most used OEM are 10+ years old now so not really a good choice. You might want to go full coilovers front and back. The Megan EZ coilovers goes for around $750 might be better choice.

Seattle SCone

Our SC430's OEM suspension is, in my opinion, the worst of both worlds. It transmits a lot of road vibrations into the cabin, but sways like a boat in curves. Not a sporty suspension. Not a luxury ride. Basically, they managed to cobble together something that was superlative at nothing.

Going to full coilovers at least gives you the chance to get an actual sporty suspension able to take corners without tossing the occupants over the cliff. It won't be silky smooth, but I'm super happy with my 10K / 10K setup and upgraded sway bars. It transfromed my 18 year old boat into something that feels like my DB9 despite being an old Lexus.

Caflashbob

Oem has/had too much high speed compression dampening and not enough low speed dampening and no internal bottoming resistance. And while the 12/6 kg spring rate was correct as Jerrick told me they were too long. A shorter same rate spring holds the car up much better as it turns out.

night and day difference driving the Sc with the MeisterR CRD’s on it.

straight into short steep driveways at not creep slow speeds and cushes up the slope and no bottoming.

can be driven harder now. Sway bars. Front and back. Coilovers front and back.

if anyone wants to test this I live in south Orange County, ca.

the deflection off tiny bumps that the oem had is gone.

Car is spring firm now with the adjustable dampening the fine tuning.

i build and ride off road bikes since a young guy and suspension is the key.

Jerrick set it up very well.

a softer short spring set maybe 5/10 might be more cushy and then turn up the dampening but the body roll would increase.

Remember I have 45’s on this car. Some tire lean.

My tpms shows 38psi roughly when they are warmed up.

not a floater still. Taunt but not stiff. Does follow the road changes in bumps but no kickback.

this is at 17 out front and 20 out rear out of 32 clicks

full soft was smoother but 80-90% of the cars new feel turns out to be the shorter springs.

A progressive spring wind might be even softer but at the expense of the turning which now is an 8 out of 10 good.

Most of the 8 versus a 9 as i mentioned I think is the 45 series tires.