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I can pair it with my phone but it won't generate the 'CD1' mode so no audio through the Mark Levinson system from Bluetooth or Aux.
so the LCD on the amp doesn't show AUX ?
Mine shows AUX when i make a phone call and stay in that mode all the time. I have the BT45-TOY. Have you try that?
so the LCD on the amp doesn't show AUX ?
Mine shows AUX when i make a phone call and stay in that mode all the time. I have the BT45-TOY. Have you try that?
I saw your thread on the BT45-TOY kit and was leaning toward ordering one but got tempted by the possibility of the GTA kit working with my radio and having 'full' functionality. If the radio swap doesn't work, BT45-TOY is my backup. I described this project to a friend as 'dragging an archaic infotainment system into the 22nd century kicking and screaming.' Looks like it's playing out that way. Hopefully the NavTool portion will be smoother.
All progress is incremental. The new radio arrived and works as expected. No issues interfacing with the rest of the car and the GTA Bluetooth kit works. Woo hoo!
I also installed new foam gaskets on the rear speakers and subwoofer. They were in pretty good shape but “while you’re in there ...”
The NavTool and backup camera are proving a bit more challenging. I wired everything up for testing and the camera works but no screen mirroring. I have a newer NavTool unit that does not come with a physical switch. I thought it would default to the HDMI feed but that doesn’t appear to be the case.
I started install on the camera and finishing it will require removing the bumper. That may have to wait a few days as I’m focusing on leather painting tomorrow.
All progress is incremental. The new radio arrived and works as expected. No issues interfacing with the rest of the car and the GTA Bluetooth kit works. Woo hoo!
I also installed new foam gaskets on the rear speakers and subwoofer. They were in pretty good shape but “while you’re in there ...”
The NavTool and backup camera are proving a bit more challenging. I wired everything up for testing and the camera works but no screen mirroring. I have a newer NavTool unit that does not come with a physical switch. I thought it would default to the HDMI feed but that doesn’t appear to be the case.
I started install on the camera and finishing it will require removing the bumper. That may have to wait a few days as I’m focusing on leather painting tomorrow.
Why do you have to remove the bumper? What kind of camera do you have? Most if not all of us just feed the wire to holes in the bumper.
Why do you have to remove the bumper? What kind of camera do you have? Most if not all of us just feed the wire to holes in the bumper.
Yeah, and if I would have paid closer attention to my reading, I could have avoided this mess. I started by drilling a centered hole in front of the license plate. That hits a chunk of styrofoam that I’ve had trouble trimming. My camera has a bolt on top that needs to be secured with a nut. I’ll post pictures of all this under a ‘how not to add a backup camera’ once I’m done.
Yeah, and if I would have paid closer attention to my reading, I could have avoided this mess. I started by drilling a centered hole in front of the license plate. That hits a chunk of styrofoam that I’ve had trouble trimming. My camera has a bolt on top that needs to be secured with a nut. I’ll post pictures of all this under a ‘how not to add a backup camera’ once I’m done.
I did that without taking the bumper off.just have to be very patient screw that nut on.
i think you might have to call Navtool for the switch.
Like most of my DIY projects, this has taken a few twists and turns but I think in 90% done. Backup camera and NavTool are in and working. A few notes on those two components that may be useful to others:
. The reviews were good and I thought the mounting style would yield a clean, 'OEM' look. It did, but some key learnings:
Centered in front of the license plate seemed like a good place to install it and I drilled a hole there. If you do this, you'll hit a chunk of styrofoam and need to figure out a way to remove enough to tighten the bolt. I started by hacking away from the existing holes in the bumper cover. That sort of worked but I didn't see how I was going to get a wrench in there to tighten the bolt. I ended up removing the bumper. Simpler alternatives would be selecting a camera with a different mounting style or drilling a couple inches left or right of dead center.
You'll need to route the camera's cable into the trunk I drilled a hole near the latching assembly to provide a short, direct route into the trunk area. I probably didn't use the right drill bit and created a large burr which made inserting a grommet impossible. Cleaning it up was easy once I had the bumper off but using a metal specific bit may have prevented that problem from occurring in the first place.
I used Scarletti's guide for removing the rear bumper cover. Very useful but there were a couple differences between his 2002 UK model and my 2003 US version:
On page 4, I did not have the 2 outermost nuts. Good thing too, as I would not have been able to access the one on the driver's side without removing the emergency release assembly, which I had absolutely no luck with.
On page 6, I did not have bolts on the bottom of the wheel arch area.
For NavTool, they are currently shipping "NavTool NAVRGB3.0-HDMI+TL10" which is slightly different from previous versions. You'll receive a harness with several wires meant to cover a variety of applications. For screen mirroring and backup camera (no CarPlay or Android Auto), you'll use the following:
Red wire gets connected to constant 12V (pin 18 gray wire in 20 pin connector).
Orange wire gets connected to reverse power (pin 14 yellow/red wire in 20 pin connector OR reverse light). I connected the back-up camera's input power (red) wire to the NavTool orange wire.
Black wire gets grounded. I scraped some paint away from the bottom of an unused bolt.
White wire ("input switching ground") is meant for a physical switch. The white wire gets connected to one side of the switch and the other side gets grounded. NavTool no longer automatically includes switches, you need to order one from them or another source.
I borrowed a switch to confirm everything works but don't want to install the switch in the cabin as I don't need to see factory NAV. I ordered this timer switch which I plan on installing in the trunk. My idea is the switch will turn on with the car, count ~3 seconds, send a signal through the white wire and then turn off. This should switch the NavTool to HDMI and leave it there. The backup camera will still come on when I'm in reverse.
04-15-21, 01:42 PM
