When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I gotta run after this…
Now that your getting the hang of this, you continue to check each one at the ECU connector, using the color diagram I sent you.
also, you said the lumbar is working but nothing else. When I look at the switch on the diagram, left page upper. Their is a common W-B, white black wire going to the switch…it goes back to BE1, if the seat guy cut that wire, you would loose all seat control except for recline.
I corrected my post to lumbar above…now you need to check for ground on the green circles and 12vdc on the red circle…
these must be checked on the ECU connector with the seat connected to the car.
you know how to locate the wire colors now.
if these three are good, we will move on…I am really beginning to think the seat guy broke or cut a wire…or he pulled a pin from a connector.
Here is the drivers side diagram…the good thing is you can always confirm the signals on the drivers ECU, if required. Be back in an hour or so to check on your progress.
also, if anyone sees a better way or if I am making mistakes, please jump in…
Sorry, I did not follow this thread closely. Looking at the wiring diagram I must ask did you check the no 13 fuse in the passenger kick panel? I assume you did. If the fuse is good and you obtain the power at the other side, then check the power at the Blue-White wire at the connector J20, then follow it to your ECU as BGW suggested. Examine the J20 connector, make sure there is no bent pins. Measure the voltage at both side of the connector. Also check the ground points as suggested. You indicated the ECU has been replaced, how do you know the new one is good? If you have voltages and ground and your ECU is good, your seat should move.
Checked continuity of the lines to motors at the connector from the ECU. Got “Tone” for all but the lift motor. Checked the wire and it was good but when I checked for continuity on the motor, nothing. appears this motor has an internal short.
Question is, would this keep the others from operating or is there something else and this is another item that needs replacement?
Checked continuity of the lines to motors at the connector from the ECU. Got “Tone” for all but the lift motor. Checked the wire and it was good but when I checked for continuity on the motor, nothing. appears this motor has an internal short.
Question is, would this keep the others from operating or is there something else and this is another item that needs replacement?
i am not clear on how you checked the motor connections.
what did it tell you?
were you able to check the ECU points I suggested?
the connectors should be removed from the ECU when you check the two grounds and the red.
From this photo on the right side with the “m” in the circuit, I used a multi-meter to probe the connector in the second photo. Got “tone” when I checked:
WR - WG front vertical control
B-BR seat slide control
LR-L seat reclining control
no Tone on:
YG - YR seat lifter control
I then disconnected the YG-YR plug at the motor. Each line had good continuity. Placing the probes on the terminals on the motor did not show continuity.
From this photo on the right side with the “m” in the circuit, I used a multi-meter to probe the connector in the second photo. Got “tone” when I checked:
WR - WG front vertical control
B-BR seat slide control
LR-L seat reclining control
no Tone on:
YG - YR seat lifter control
I then disconnected the YG-YR plug at the motor. Each line had good continuity. Placing the probes on the terminals on the motor did not show continuity.
what does this tell us?
You moved ahead of me… I am still wondering what happened to the checks in post 64…
did your motor checks prove the ECU checks are good?
if so, carry on, you are doing very well :-)
I plugged in the Whit connector from the floor. At the ECU, there is this connector. The Blue-White line has 12.54v. The White-Black has good ground and continuity.
As to the other ground, on the schematic, it shows the White-Back ground at the control switch. In the second photo you can see that there’s no White-Black line on my car. Am I looking at the wrong spot?
At a loss with this issue. I got a buddy at a salvage yard that has a seat and plugged it in and all worked fine. Even tried the extra ECU I bought for my seat and it worked. I am now thinking about just buying the one he has and just swapping all the colored parts.