A Long Shot!!!
06-01-21, 09:09 AM
#17
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Idling confirm
You really should fist analyze what RPM the vehicle is idling in gear. Yes mounts go bad but if the rpm is too low it will produce vibrations even when the mounts are fine. 650’ish in gear and about 900 or so in park or neutral when the car is warm. There is a specific port on the throttle body that handles idle air flow when the flap is closed. It’s very easy to inspect.
Clean the VSV valve. I noticed an improvement immediately when I did mine.
Link
Vibrations at speed are mostly likely bent rims.
Clean the VSV valve. I noticed an improvement immediately when I did mine.
Link
Vibrations at speed are mostly likely bent rims.
06-01-21, 10:14 AM
#18
Lead Lap
Looks sharp Simplehabi.
06-02-21, 05:48 PM
#20
Pole Position
You really should fist analyze what RPM the vehicle is idling in gear. Yes mounts go bad but if the rpm is too low it will produce vibrations even when the mounts are fine. 650’ish in gear and about 900 or so in park or neutral when the car is warm. There is a specific port on the throttle body that handles idle air flow when the flap is closed. It’s very easy to inspect.
Clean the VSV valve. I noticed an improvement immediately when I did mine.
Link
Vibrations at speed are mostly likely bent rims.
Clean the VSV valve. I noticed an improvement immediately when I did mine.
Link
Vibrations at speed are mostly likely bent rims.
Cold:
Idling: 1500
In Drive: 950
with AC: no change
Hot:
Idling: 700
With AC: 800
In Drive: 500
With AC: 700
She runs smoothly as silk.
06-02-21, 10:14 PM
#21
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
After carefully observe the Idling RPM, what I saw is this :
Running Hot :
1. In gear it was definitely less than 600 ( definitly at not time it was more than 650 like Lavrisevo mention ).
2. In Park it was also less than 800 ( not in 900 range ).
I could feel the vibration when in Gear ( less than 600 RPM ). Not horribly, but it's there. What I found out is that when I just gave it a tiny bit of gas throttle, say above 600 and close to 700 rpm, the vibration goes away instantly !!!!!!
And this is the same when it's in Park. A bit more throttle then the vibration goes away.
I don't know what it is yet.
Also I haven't tried cleaning the VSV valve method like Lavrishevo mention yet ( I'm a bit nervous about this plus not much time lately ).
Running Hot :
1. In gear it was definitely less than 600 ( definitly at not time it was more than 650 like Lavrisevo mention ).
2. In Park it was also less than 800 ( not in 900 range ).
I could feel the vibration when in Gear ( less than 600 RPM ). Not horribly, but it's there. What I found out is that when I just gave it a tiny bit of gas throttle, say above 600 and close to 700 rpm, the vibration goes away instantly !!!!!!
And this is the same when it's in Park. A bit more throttle then the vibration goes away.
I don't know what it is yet.
Also I haven't tried cleaning the VSV valve method like Lavrishevo mention yet ( I'm a bit nervous about this plus not much time lately ).
06-03-21, 01:08 AM
#22
Cleaning the throttle body is probably more important than the VSV. Usually low idle speed is throttle body related. The VSV would help with smoothness and consistency at factory spec’d RPM.
Look at your throttle body and you will see a small plate I believe bottom right. I think 2 Philips head bolts hold it in place. Remove and inspect for carbon buildup. This is not the main flap of the throttle itself but the “idle port” or what allows air flow at idle when the flap is closed. Below 600 is definitely tool low. Looking at the gauge is not going to give you an accurate reading. In other words, using a scan too will show you the real idle speed vs what you think it is on that analog needle. A couple hundred rpm can make a big difference as you see.
Look at your throttle body and you will see a small plate I believe bottom right. I think 2 Philips head bolts hold it in place. Remove and inspect for carbon buildup. This is not the main flap of the throttle itself but the “idle port” or what allows air flow at idle when the flap is closed. Below 600 is definitely tool low. Looking at the gauge is not going to give you an accurate reading. In other words, using a scan too will show you the real idle speed vs what you think it is on that analog needle. A couple hundred rpm can make a big difference as you see.
Last edited by Lavrishevo; 06-03-21 at 06:02 PM.
06-03-21, 03:37 PM
#23
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Cleaning the throttle body is probably more important than the VSV. Usually low idle speed is throttle body related. The VSV would help with smoothness and consistency at factory spec’d RPM.
Look at your throttle body and you will see a small plate I believe bottom right. I think 2 Philips head bolts hold it in place. Remove and inspect for carbon buildup. This is not the main flap of the throttle itself but the “idle port” or what allows air flow at idle when the flap is closed. Below 600 is definitely too low. Looking at the gauge is not going to give you an accurate reading. In other words, using a scan too will show you the real idle speed vs what you think it is on that analog needle. A couple hundred rpm can make a big difference as you see.
Look at your throttle body and you will see a small plate I believe bottom right. I think 2 Philips head bolts hold it in place. Remove and inspect for carbon buildup. This is not the main flap of the throttle itself but the “idle port” or what allows air flow at idle when the flap is closed. Below 600 is definitely too low. Looking at the gauge is not going to give you an accurate reading. In other words, using a scan too will show you the real idle speed vs what you think it is on that analog needle. A couple hundred rpm can make a big difference as you see.
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