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Okay, i might be asking a question already covered but i can't find the answer. Forgive me for repeating if that's the case.
I have a few days off and would like to change some tranny fluid. I am hoping that i can suck an amount out of the dipstick tube and refill same amount.
2 questions: is there a dipstick on the 2002 models?
is it hiding under the engine cover?
Thank you and have a great BUT SAFE holiday weekend!
its better to just pull the drain plug on the 2002, then refill.
If you are not able to perform the drain and refill then you could certainly do the dipstick suction removal.
its better to just pull the drain plug on the 2002, then refill.
If you are not able to perform the drain and refill then you could certainly do the dipstick suction removal.
You are out of luck my friend. There is no such thing in the SC.
Hmmm. Two contrasting opinions.What to do. What to do....
Here is a pic of my 2002…I miss it…note the red circle indicating the transmission dip stick, model years, 2002-2005, five speed auto.
I do wish they would have kept the dip stick…
BTW, the “sealed transmissions” in the 2006-2010 still require fluid changes.
Bgw: Thank you.Looks like it is under the cover . I took a look with a flashlight before but i don't remember see an orange cap. I'll now take another look but i think i might go with daryl's idea for the radiator anyways.
I am going to change the fluid on the 2007 with 54k miles soon…gonna do the remove both transmission cooler lines from the radiator, put one in the empty milk jug and the other in the new fluid jug, then start the car and let the transmission pump circulate the fluid. I was thinking 8-12 quarts should do it.
does that sound right?
BGW: It took a while, but I gave this more thought, as I was thinking of doing this myself. If you remove both cooler lines, I believe one would push fluid, but the other wouldn't provide a vacuum for introducing the new fluid. One solution would be gravity feeding the new fluid, but it likely won't feed as fast as the fluid coming out. Another solution would be a pressurized tank like those used to pressure-bleed brake systems, however, these tanks only hold a few qts. One could use a larger "Hudson-type" sprayer, typically used in landscaping for pesticides and herbicides. In the end, however, it seems like a lot of fusing and extra cost for little gain when one can do multiple drain-and-fills over time with similar results.
With your mileage, I wouldn't be too concerned with doing a complete 12qt fluid replacement (I don't call it a flush unless solvent is introduced prior to fluid replacement, as professional flushing does). I have the same philosophy regarding the changing power steering fluid. What is key is starting the drain-and-fills early in the tranny's lifespan as you are.
If you do go through with a complete fluid replacement, take some pictures and notes to post. I'll be interested to hear how it goes. I plan to do a drain-and-fill on my 2008, and I'll post my experience. I'm expecting it to be similar to my ES and Tundra, but one never knows what curve ***** Toyota engineers have in store for me!
I'm planning on using "AMSOIL Signature Series Fuel-Efficient Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATL)" which is completely compatible with WS and likely better as it is 100% synthetic (WS is blended). I can get it for about the same price at my local auto parts store.
BGW: It took a while, but I gave this more thought, as I was thinking of doing this myself. If you remove both cooler lines, I believe one would push fluid, but the other wouldn't provide a vacuum for introducing the new fluid. One solution would be gravity feeding the new fluid, but it likely won't feed as fast as the fluid coming out. Another solution would be a pressurized tank like those used to pressure-bleed brake systems, however, these tanks only hold a few qts. One could use a larger "Hudson-type" sprayer, typically used in landscaping for pesticides and herbicides. In the end, however, it seems like a lot of fusing and extra cost for little gain when one can do multiple drain-and-fills over time with similar results.
With your mileage, I wouldn't be too concerned with doing a complete 12qt fluid replacement (I don't call it a flush unless solvent is introduced prior to fluid replacement, as professional flushing does). I have the same philosophy regarding the changing power steering fluid. What is key is starting the drain-and-fills early in the tranny's lifespan as you are.
If you do go through with a complete fluid replacement, take some pictures and notes to post. I'll be interested to hear how it goes. I plan to do a drain-and-fill on my 2008, and I'll post my experience. I'm expecting it to be similar to my ES and Tundra, but one never knows what curve ***** Toyota engineers have in store for me!
I'm planning on using "AMSOIL Signature Series Fuel-Efficient Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATL)" which is completely compatible with WS and likely better as it is 100% synthetic (WS is blended). I can get it for about the same price at my local auto parts store.
hey Wilson, I too have been thinking and researching my prior comment about a vacuum draw on new fluid into the transmission…I now think I am wrong and the system will not draw new fluid.
Like you, I also thought about a way to use gravity to add new fluid vs a pump.
When I do it, I will take pics like Daryl…
Daryl: you at first stated that you drained a quart at a time from the rad and then replaced. In retrospect you said you should've gone the drain plug(at least) or pull the pan and change the filter at the same time. other than having the ability to change the filter , why go with any other method because, as you stated, there is not a big difference in volumes.Some of this might be from your other post .
I am now wondering why i would do anything other that your method of hooking up to the rad, My reasoning for this method is that i(and i think a lot of us on this forum) don't drive my SC in the winter and not every day in the summer, so a drain and fill( at the tranny plugs) would take a long time to refresh my fluid if i was to change at oil changes. Even if i was to drain and fill at the plugs it would take many days of up and down the ramps. To me, the rad method would work best for me and many others. Am i wrong? Have i missed something?
Daryl: you at first stated that you drained a quart at a time from the rad and then replaced. In retrospect you said you should've gone the drain plug(at least) or pull the pan and change the filter at the same time.
Yes, my regret was that I did not change the Transmission Filter when I changed the fluid. I changed the fluid at about 100K miles and don't plan on changing it again anytime soon. Changing the filter and then using the radiator method would have been a smarter thing for me to do.
Finally got to start my drain and fills. The fluid I took out was brown with a very slight reddish tint and no burnt smell. So it seems to have held up pretty good but after 15 years and 104k miles it needs refreshing. I replaced about 2 quarts. Going to repeat the process several times over the next several weeks. Once I get the color a lot closer to the red color it's supposed to be I'll do one last drain, pull the pan, clean it and replace the filter. After that I'll do a drain and fill each year when I change the oil. I'm using Amsoil fuel efficient.
Cool! How difficult was the procedure? Too, let us know how it goes when you drop the pan and change the filter. Where did you get your Amsoil and how much did you pay for it?
have fun taking the pan off. it's a PITA due to FIPG acting like superglue. Once it's open you'll find the filter will look like new.
tip: get a putty knife from HomeDepot for this job.
07-03-21 | 04:31 PM
