I did what you did. Left them be and just replaced the original ML 6x9’s with coaxials. Sounds great!

The sub makes a huge difference also.

 

I like the installs you guys have done. I've noticed others remove the nav unit and install a new nav system that includes lots of various functions. Obviously for you guys, if you have a bad radio or non-existent nav, then this option is a no brainer. But if everything was working fine and you had the nav,, would you have opted for the nav replacement instead? Lots of those folks also kept the door working with their installs.

 

 

Wow!!!! That’s an insane install!!! Did you upgrade the rest of the system or did you just add bass firepower?

 

The whole system

 

Awesome! That must sound amazing

 

Well done that install is stellar..

 

@DPlainview After looking at the options, I didn't think it was worth the headache of putting a modern nav like a new Garmin in the spot. Why? Google Maps/Apple Maps/Waze are so much better and always up to date. So if you have CarPlay (or Android Auto), it is miles ahead of a standalone GPS IMHO.

Second point: Once you remove the internal radio, you kill the CAN BUS that talks to the upper nav system door mechanism. The factory radio is the master on the CAN network. I've talked to a guy who took the motherboard out of the factory radio and put it hidden behind the new radio so that he could keep the upper NAV system. For me, not worth the headache since the upper nav is antiquated anyway. So if you want the upper door to open and close, you must have a CAN master on the bus. Could it be done, sure. Is it worth it? Not for me.

I tried some simple ideas around simulating the CAN master with a resistor network but I couldn't get the steering buttons to work at the same time. I could get one or the other: it was either the upper door working or the steering wheel radio controls. That's a no-brainer choice for me.

So, when it came down to the final choice, a great head unit does everything and more than the upper NAV, so who needs it any more other than nostalgia.

 

As an FYI, this is model year dependent. I have the nav door working without any part of the radio in a 2002 using the resistor method. Not sure, but I think the issue comes up only for the refresh model years (2005 or 2006+ maybe?).

Worth noting -- mandatory to keep the connector board and its daughter board from the nav display housing in addition to the resistor usage.

 

I replaced my 08 radio with a pioneer and everything works fine? The pioneer and the beat sonic controller woke up the factory ML stereo a lot. Not a boom box setup. But very well balanced. I did adjust the pioneers graphic equalizer to boost some frequencies more.

 

To clarify my response, i was addressing those who didn't intend to keep the OEM nav system but still wanted a working nav door.

 

I’m attempting to replace my head unit but I want the door to be operational. I purchased a JVC KW-M560BT as a replacement head unit. The JVC unit is only 3.25” deep which is about half of what is required for the brackets on the door unit to be utilized. It’s also 7.125” wide and the original is 7”. I need help from anyone who has done a successful switch to a modern CarPlay system with a functional door. I assume that I’ll have to return this unit, but I have no clue which units will work with the door. If anyone can help, it would be greatly appreciated.

 

Hi. I have the save unit and has to settle for a doorless installation. I couldn’t find a way to retain the door and fit the unit to the bracket.

 

Far out. I just read everything in this thread and learned nothing.

I need to fix the door on my stereo and the nav, and the speakers certainly need help. I do a bunch of twanging at home and with some mates so i like music, but gee Im going to have to have more than a few drams to understand what all this means.

That lark with the rear camera! Sheesh. "Cans" and Buss"? Bloody hell.

Mate, you couldnt throw up an audio file so that we could have a listen?