My SC keys
#31
Instructor
I should have been more explicit. I need the blank AND the photo cut. If I have to pay $28 for the blank and another $30 to have it cut locally, that makes a very expensive Valet key. I am goinng to put in a "Valet Cut Off", a switch under the dash that disables the top and trunk. Easier and a lot cheaper. My remote keys are costing me $15 (complete with electronics and blade and the photo cut is another $4 So that will be a reasonable price.
#32
Pole Position
Thread Starter
I should have been more explicit. I need the blank AND the photo cut. If I have to pay $28 for the blank and another $30 to have it cut locally, that makes a very expensive Valet key. I am goinng to put in a "Valet Cut Off", a switch under the dash that disables the top and trunk. Easier and a lot cheaper. My remote keys are costing me $15 (complete with electronics and blade and the photo cut is another $4 So that will be a reasonable price.
#33
Pole Position
But the rest of the stuff you shared rings true
#34
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Valet key is designated as sub key there for it cannot be used to program the key. BGW could be right if you designate it as a master key. To do so, you need to delete one of the master key from the system.
#35
www.techinfo.toyota.com
There they have the factory service manuals, wiring diagrams, body repair manuals, other miscellaneous documents for Toyota, Scion, and Lexus cars and truck.
There they have the factory service manuals, wiring diagrams, body repair manuals, other miscellaneous documents for Toyota, Scion, and Lexus cars and truck.
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Bgw70 (12-12-21)
#37
Lexus Test Driver
if I did, I apologize.
i suppose I could fire up Techstream and see if I get the same result as Daryl
#38
Instructor
GmanSC I noticed that you have posted several very clear pictures of your key on this thread. I wouuld suggest that if you can, you should remove them because for $4 you can have a key reproduced from a photo. That is what I am doing on my $20 key. OK, so it could not be programmed, but they could possibly get around that by other methods.
BTW, my $20 key is on the way and as soon as I get it I will test it and reveal the source. I will program it with the Open/Close door method.
A question:.....if you take a file to the sides of a master key, do you turn it into a Valet key?
BTW, my $20 key is on the way and as soon as I get it I will test it and reveal the source. I will program it with the Open/Close door method.
A question:.....if you take a file to the sides of a master key, do you turn it into a Valet key?
#39
Instructor
I got the $20 key and it is propperly cut as it will turn the ignition and if I have my master key inn my pocket, the car will start. Just like my LS keyless ignition. If I was away from the car, no one lese could start it. But the close/open door method does not work to program it. I dont see how Doobs used the security light to detect the programing because my security light fllashes ALL THE TIME indicating that the security system is working........ It doesnt stop when the programing is done, it cant..... Guess I will haveto get the programming done elsewhere, but I did get the key for less than $20. If I can get it programmed for $20 that is still cheap.
I am thinking I could cut off the blade and stick it in the ignition with a handle and use the master key as a fob, because the cut blade will strt the car if I have my master key in my pocket. It woud work just the same as the 2004 LS with keyless ignition does.
I am thinking I could cut off the blade and stick it in the ignition with a handle and use the master key as a fob, because the cut blade will strt the car if I have my master key in my pocket. It woud work just the same as the 2004 LS with keyless ignition does.
#40
Jim, not sure I understand what you're writing. Just in case, thought I'd offer the following:
If the light is flashing all the time that implies there is no master key present. The OEM valet chipped key will start the engine but not open a locked glovebox, etc.
You could have a key blade cut like a master (works in ignition, glovebox, etc.), but the chip ("brains") of the key thinks it's a valet.
That is, if your "Master" combines the metal blade of a master key with the valet chip, then it will work like a master (start engine, open glovebox, etc.), except the light won't stop flashing.
That would explain why you can't get your new key programmed -- need a true master to program another master.
If the light is flashing all the time that implies there is no master key present. The OEM valet chipped key will start the engine but not open a locked glovebox, etc.
You could have a key blade cut like a master (works in ignition, glovebox, etc.), but the chip ("brains") of the key thinks it's a valet.
That is, if your "Master" combines the metal blade of a master key with the valet chip, then it will work like a master (start engine, open glovebox, etc.), except the light won't stop flashing.
That would explain why you can't get your new key programmed -- need a true master to program another master.
#41
Instructor
OK, I guess I have to be more specific. Doobs posted, earlier in this thread that a sequence of door closings and key turnings would program a NEW key.
Using a new key with the proper chip and electronics in it that I purchased for $19,XX and my Master key, (it is a master key because it all works. ) I tried the programming sequence, The security light starts blinking WHEN I INSERT THE NEW KEY to be programmed....of course, because it is not yet programmed
But, if you will read Doobs post you will see that the blinking will stop when the programing is finished after one minute. Mine does NOT STOP so I infer that the programing is not finishing......Simple.....
SO that sequence that he used on his 2007 and that someone used on a 2006, does not work on my 2006
Using a new key with the proper chip and electronics in it that I purchased for $19,XX and my Master key, (it is a master key because it all works. ) I tried the programming sequence, The security light starts blinking WHEN I INSERT THE NEW KEY to be programmed....of course, because it is not yet programmed
But, if you will read Doobs post you will see that the blinking will stop when the programing is finished after one minute. Mine does NOT STOP so I infer that the programing is not finishing......Simple.....
SO that sequence that he used on his 2007 and that someone used on a 2006, does not work on my 2006
Last edited by jimisbell; 12-31-21 at 03:44 PM.
#43
Pole Position
Thread Starter
I got the $20 key and it is propperly cut as it will turn the ignition and if I have my master key inn my pocket, the car will start. Just like my LS keyless ignition. If I was away from the car, no one lese could start it. But the close/open door method does not work to program it. I dont see how Doobs used the security light to detect the programing because my security light fllashes ALL THE TIME indicating that the security system is working........ It doesnt stop when the programing is done, it cant..... Guess I will haveto get the programming done elsewhere, but I did get the key for less than $20. If I can get it programmed for $20 that is still cheap.
I am thinking I could cut off the blade and stick it in the ignition with a handle and use the master key as a fob, because the cut blade will strt the car if I have my master key in my pocket. It woud work just the same as the 2004 LS with keyless ignition does.
I am thinking I could cut off the blade and stick it in the ignition with a handle and use the master key as a fob, because the cut blade will strt the car if I have my master key in my pocket. It woud work just the same as the 2004 LS with keyless ignition does.
I have one like that and I velcro it inside the bumper just for opening the door if I happen to lock my master inside.
I’m willing to bet that the key you have is not a master key, that’s reason you could not program another key.
If you want a valet key, so the valet attendant can’t open your glove box or center console, you must purchase the valet key ( no lips). There is no way to get around it.
#44
Instructor
You would loose that bet. Because it IS a Master Key and yes, the light does stop flashing when the "old master" key is in the ignition. But when you pull it oout and put in the NEW key the light begins flashing.....as it should, but Doobs stated that it would begin flashing when the programming began and quit wwhen its oover. It doesnt quit, so its not programmed.
As to the usefullness of the key when you have to keep the master in your pocket, its just like the LS 430 where you have to keep the FOB in your pocket or the car wont start. No different.
But aparently that sequence, that Dppbs posted, will not work on an early 2006. I just have to find the correct sequence OR get it programmed at that hardware store someone mentioned for $20. Both are doable.
As to the usefullness of the key when you have to keep the master in your pocket, its just like the LS 430 where you have to keep the FOB in your pocket or the car wont start. No different.
But aparently that sequence, that Dppbs posted, will not work on an early 2006. I just have to find the correct sequence OR get it programmed at that hardware store someone mentioned for $20. Both are doable.
#45
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Do you have TechStream? TechStream will tell you that your key is a master key or not.
I still don’t understand your logic. Why do you carry the master key in the pocket and use a dumb key to drive? Why not use your master key? Good luck for finding the place that will program your key for 20 bucks.
I still don’t understand your logic. Why do you carry the master key in the pocket and use a dumb key to drive? Why not use your master key? Good luck for finding the place that will program your key for 20 bucks.