On this thread someone said that a hardware store did it for $20.

I dont understand why when someone finds a deal, everybody and his brother try to tear it down because they paid more. When I found the spiral cable for $13 all I got was grief. I dont think I will post the source for the $20 key or the $130 strut brace or the $13 spiral cable. No one really wantsto know. From now on, I will just read, not post. Half the responses are from people thaat didnt read the entire thread before answering anyway.

 

My guess is you got some part of the sequence wrong. It took me about 6 tries on the first part to follow it correctly. Once I had the right "mindset" the second part took 1 try.

 

I haven't had to do it (key programming) on my SC, but I have for an LX and a couple of Toyotas. Encountered the same thing, multiple tries to get it right, each time. Almost like Toy/Lex wants you to get frustrated, give up and take it to the dealer -- only giving in after you prove your persistence.

 

Kinda like doing the hokie pokie....

You put you left foot in,
You put your left foot out....

 

Not to muddy the waters, but...

Here is a photo of my current 2004 SC430 keys.




I have two "master" keys with the Remote Keyless Entry buttons. These two keys can lock and unlock the glove box. One of these keys has the original guts that include the immobilizer chip and RKE control functions. The other RKE (master) key was bought off EBay used and the guts were transferred into a master style shell with a photo cut blade. It was then programmed to the SC using the two part manual process (not with TechStream).

The gray valet key is one of the original keys that came with the car. It will start the engine but can not lock and unlock the glove box. The other valet key (black) is an aftermarket key that was purchased and cut by an online company. The blade is longer but after manual transponder programming it works properly. This black valet key won't lock or unlock the glove box either.

From my understanding, these cars originally came with two master keys, one valet key and one wallet key. When I bought the SC it came with one master and one valet key. So far I have added two more keys, one master RKE and one valet using the manual programming method. I have never used TechStream to add or delete any keys. Additionally, I added a Data style Bypass Module with the Viper Remote Start system, which might count as another transponder chip to the SC430.

All of these keys will start the car. The two "master" keys can lock / unlock the doors and pop the trunk. The long range Viper remotes can lock / unlock the doors, pop the trunk, start the engine, open / close the top and roll up / down the windows.

I'm a firm believer in having a spare keys.

As mentioned, I did not use TechStream to program or delete keys. I have used TechStream to replace the TPMS sensors as they failed over the years. I'm not sure how many keys can be programmed to the car at one time. It's possible that there is a limit and I have not hit that limit yet.

 

I got total of 4(5 if you count the one in the manual) keys when I bought car: 3 with buttons and valet..and one in manual.. If I replace battery on master(I am guessing it is a master if it has the three buttons) do I have to reprogramme? the key aint working correctly, so I am answering my own question.. will manual method work on 2006 SC430? thanks in advance.... where is my 57 Chevy conv when I need it, it had no stinkin programming..

 

Don't have to reprogram for battery replacement

 

Thanks .. key will not unlock door .. light does not blink .. if I push it twice it will blink and last time I tried the windows started lowering ..so I stopped .. .. I will try the manual dance and get back to the forum..

 

The battery operates the remote which locks and unlocks the door.

The RFID chip inside your key does not require any power to work. The RFID chip is what your car uses for the ani theft.

If your remote does not open the door, swap the battery. It might work right off the bat. Otherwise you have to resynch it

 

Like the others have said, replacing batteries is all you have to do. No reprogramming required. Holding the unlock button down for 3 or 4 seconds will start the windows rolling down. So it sounds like the car is recognizing the monitor is receiving the signal. Go up next to the door and listen. Most likely you will hear a faint noise like the door attempting to unlock. It sounds like you have a door lock actuator motor that is failing. They get worse in the sun when it is hot (or just hotter). If it works when it is cooler, then you can be sure that the motor is the problem. There is a thread in the forum with a DIY for replacing the motor. I'd recommend that route after verifying that the actuator motor is the root cause of the failure.

 

Thanks for all the help.. I will reply when the issue is resolved. I finally did the recall on the safety bag with timing belt at same time and had to replace one wheel at Sewell in Big D about $3000. After paying my dues and when I finally found my car I had a small box of cookies on the dash..when I got home, a two hour drive, I got a call saying the cookies were rotten/spoiled/?, to not eat them and they will send me some more. Cookies were eaten before I got outta Dallas. My call to them was: as soon as the remains are released I will send them back via hot shot delivery so as to retain the freshness. This FIASCO including the "new staff" was not a pleasant experience. Most of the older staff had been replaced with "genius" type people whose only purpose was to send me the wrong way and give me incorrect information. I sent a letter of my concern and got no reply, its been over a year. So no more Sewell for me. May all your herds increase and the wind always be at your back. Stay vigilant we have been through worse times.
I salute this Great Forum.

 

It has been cold and warm here for past month and didn't seem to matter. The lock slowly, it didn't take long, stopped working I replaced the weak battery. With a proud smile I gave it the test and no response except for the windows. I will listen for the lock and if I hear nothing I will assume the actuator is kaput. Thanks again..

 

My drivers side door actuator is getting worse also. When direct sun hits it on a warm day, it stops working. Get going and things cool down to normal, it starts working normal. I just bought one actuator motor for that side. As much of a pain as it is to replace, I'm probably better off just replacing them both. Theres a good thread here with all the information you need. One of our most esteemed members even did a nice write up with photos. 😁 Not me though. 🤣

Paul