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Excellent info! If your HU control doesn't work, the Viper AUX output will. That's how I have it set up on my SC430. AUX1 opens the roof, AUX2 closes the roof and AUX3 will roll down the windows. I set the Viper Lock function to also do "Comfort Closure" which locks the doors and rolls up the windows.
It would appear that all the signals needed for the PAC TR-7 are present on the A10 plug.
PAC TR-7 signal name SC430 wire and color
Pin 1 Black Chassis Ground to A10 Pin 14 Ground White/Black
Pin 2 Red +12V - to A10 Pin 1 to (+) Key @ ON position Purple/White
Pin 4 Brown (-) Trigger Input to A10 Pin 3 - Roof OPEN Green/Yellow
Pin 6 White (-) Timed Output to A10 Pin 3 - Roof OPEN Green/Yellow
PAC TR-7 set to Feature #15 - Pulses to timed output.
Set Number of pulses to 2 ( within 5 seconds )
Set Output Timer to ~20 seconds for complete top open function
Operation :
The PAC TR-7 will monitor the Top OPEN switch for two pulses within five seconds. When it sees this condition, the TR-7 will output a (-) signal to the Top OPEN wire for the set time ( ~20 seconds ), which will open the top. Regular switch operation is not affected and will still function normally.
Remember that this can only be done with all the Lexus SC430 restrictions and conditional requirements.
1. The ignition switch must be ON.
2. The interlock switches in the trunk must be "made" with the pull out screen in place.
3. The top computer can't be "confused" by recent 1/4 window movement if you have the 1/4 window mod.
4. Plus any other sensor error conditions ( tray, sill latches, etc ).
As a test to ensure this mod will work, I programmed a TR-7 as outlined above and installed it in my SC430 using Posi-Taps as temporary wire connections. Below is a video of the results. I started the roof open process with the windows up and the engine running in Park. With two presses on the OPEN button the TR-7 took over and opened the top. You can see the TR-7's Red output active LED go out about a 1/2 second after the Lexus tone for roof open complete so the 20 second timed output is acceptable.
The hardest part of this for most owners will be doing the actual PAC TR-7 programming. The instructions are pretty good with wire descriptions and a flow chart but some trail & error and patience is needed. You will need a +12V power source. I made a +12V power supply using an old PC power pack and some alligator clips. You could use the vehicles battery and a fused small gauge jumper wire with alligator clips at both ends.
The PAC TR-7 doesn't draw much power, 43.6 mA in operation and only 4.87 mA when idle. While you could connect the TR-7 to constant +12V power found at the White/Red wire at A10 Pin 8, I used the IGN ON +12V signal at A10 Pin 1. The TR-7 initializes quickly when power is applied and is ready to go by the time the SC is running.
Alright, I took a gamble and "offered" on ebay 20$ USD for 2 units (20 each) (and was accepted -- -- instead of the asking 28$ USD... since the shipping ended up being 30$ USD.. still ended up cheaper than me buying 2 units in Canada locally.
I can just now program the trigger into the switch as you've done @FlopTop04 and also into my HU since I can pull the pin low as well -- and since my unit is 4G and always on! I can send a text to it and remote start + do the roof! so yay.
Wow! The price on the PAC TR-7's has gone up a bunch. Think the last few I bought were under $20, delivered. But I'm in the States.
Did you find the PAC TR-7 programming difficult? It took me a few tries to get the timing and sequence correct. Where did you make the top control connections? If there is room for the TR-7's, behind the AC control panel would be easiest.
I forgot to post this photo of my top open connections for the TR-7 test. here it is below :
Good idea on the Viper using a HU output to supply a remote start trigger input for the Viper. Better and cheaper than a Phone App with a separate yearly subscription.
Still waiting for them, there's room to the right of the Climate Control Module -- if you take off the right side air vent, there's plenty of room above the glove box for them -- I had my radio/nav and climate out for different reason, and checked, not much room behind the module for the TR-7's, you could probably sneak it behind the radio if you had an aftermarket one in.
Yeah I actually have the SMART START, but they discontinued 3G where I am, so.. i ended up getting it refunded this year.. there's another module that works, for 150$ CAD, but I don't want to pay yearly sub.. when I already have it in my mobile plan for a "addon" device for 5$ a month.
You could theoretically hook it up to read signal from "unlock" or "lock" pulses -> press button 3 x within 5 seconds.. to open/close lock.. but again all the above requirements from flop tops post would still have to suffice.
How about to made open/close top from the key buttons with this device, is it possible?
Which "key button" are you referring to? The Factory FOB's Lock and Unlock buttons or the Lock and Unlock controls on the inside driver door panel?
I'm pretty sure it would NOT be possible to do with the factory FOB's.
My concerns would be :
1. The Ignition switch has to be set to ON to operate the top. The engine could be running or off but the switch must be ON.
2. The main problem is that the car ignores the Factory remote when the engine is running or the ignition switch is ON. With a key in the ignition switch and set to ON, the Factory remotes can NOT Lock or Unlock the doors. Lexus design.
Additionally, you can't just setup the PAC TR-7 to turn on the ignition circuit alone. That would set off the Factory Alarm if the alarm was set. You would need to also trigger a signal called Kensense and possibly supply the transponder chip info to prevent the Factory Alarm from going off when the ignition was turned ON. All of this is done automatically with a remote start from the Viper.
If you wanted to initiate a roof open or close using the drivers door control panel buttons while the engine was running ( or ignition switch was set to ON ), then yes, you could wire up a PAC TR-7 to do each operation but...
1. You would be using Lock - Lock - Lock to close the top and Unlock three times to open the top.
2. The PAC TR-7's would be monitoring the drivers door lock motor control wires via its' (+) Input wire. These connections are only found inside the drivers door.
3. Slightly different TR-7 programming for 3 pulses within 5 seconds.
These lock motor wires are in the middle connector of the drivers' door ECU.
Lock Motor wire is (+) Blue/Red
Unlock Motor wire is (+) Blue/Black
Testing with a Digital Multi Meter would be required because in this same connector is a Blue/Black (-) Factory Arm and Lock wire.
As a final thought, remember that the TR-7 is not a real smart device. It's more of a brute force weapon. When installed like this, anytime someone presses the lock or unlock button 3 times in a row the TR-7 will output a ~20 pulse on the respective top control wire. ( Same thing happens using the actual top open and close signal at the switch. ) If the car is moving nothing happens but if you come to a stop the top operation will start with whatever time is remaining on the TR-7 output timer. The TR-7 doesn't monitor the ignition switch or vehicle speed.
The luxlink requires a long door unlock button push on the factory remote to beep then lower the top or the reverse to raise it. Double push of the dash switch either lowers or raises the top.
Which "key button" are you referring to? The Factory FOB's Lock and Unlock buttons or the Lock and Unlock controls on the inside driver door panel?
I'm pretty sure it would NOT be possible to do with the factory FOB's.
My concerns would be :
1. The Ignition switch has to be set to ON to operate the top. The engine could be running or off but the switch must be ON.
2. The main problem is that the car ignores the Factory remote when the engine is running or the ignition switch is ON. With a key in the ignition switch and set to ON, the Factory remotes can NOT Lock or Unlock the doors. Lexus design.
Additionally, you can't just setup the PAC TR-7 to turn on the ignition circuit alone. That would set off the Factory Alarm if the alarm was set. You would need to also trigger a signal called Kensense and possibly supply the transponder chip info to prevent the Factory Alarm from going off when the ignition was turned ON. All of this is done automatically with a remote start from the Viper.
If you wanted to initiate a roof open or close using the drivers door control panel buttons while the engine was running ( or ignition switch was set to ON ), then yes, you could wire up a PAC TR-7 to do each operation but...
1. You would be using Lock - Lock - Lock to close the top and Unlock three times to open the top.
2. The PAC TR-7's would be monitoring the drivers door lock motor control wires via its' (+) Input wire. These connections are only found inside the drivers door.
3. Slightly different TR-7 programming for 3 pulses within 5 seconds.
These lock motor wires are in the middle connector of the drivers' door ECU.
Lock Motor wire is (+) Blue/Red
Unlock Motor wire is (+) Blue/Black
Testing with a Digital Multi Meter would be required because in this same connector is a Blue/Black (-) Factory Arm and Lock wire.
As a final thought, remember that the TR-7 is not a real smart device. It's more of a brute force weapon. When installed like this, anytime someone presses the lock or unlock button 3 times in a row the TR-7 will output a ~20 pulse on the respective top control wire. ( Same thing happens using the actual top open and close signal at the switch. ) If the car is moving nothing happens but if you come to a stop the top operation will start with whatever time is remaining on the TR-7 output timer. The TR-7 doesn't monitor the ignition switch or vehicle speed.
Long push open/close button. We think about controller and we have man who can do it, he made 1/4 window controller for sc430, but he would not do it for 1-5 people, our club members not interesting in this mod(
Programmed one for 21 seconds (open) and 26 seconds (fully closed with windows up) - kept it at 2 pulses.. was contemplating 3 pulses but seemed needless.
Programming was straight forward as you mentioned, I removed the wires from the connector that wasnt needed. Only kept Red/Black/White/Brown.
Turn switch to Program ON
Supplied 12V (Red/Black)
Using the brown wire as trigger wire - touched ground 15 times (to put it in pulse inputs + timed output) mode.
Using the brown wire as trigger wire - touched ground 2 times (to say we want to wait for 2 pulses to activate)
Using the brown wire as trigger wire - touched ground 1 time to enter Timer Mode
- One fast LED Blink -- Ignored (this is to set minutes)
- Two fast LED Blink -- tapped brown wire on ground twice (tens of seconds i.e 20 seconds)
- Three fast LED Blink -- tapped brown wire on ground once (1 second i.e for a total of 21 seconds)
Waited for it to finish all its blinking..
turned off Programming Mode Switch and disconnected.
Reconnected, and tested to make sure timer was set for right amount of time (Trigger via brown wire -- and watch/time how long LED stays on)
I'll be splicing into the two wires for Open and Close from behind the connectors -- and running it down behind the radio and near the gear shifting area, where I have all my other connections for Radio / Nav / Dash Cam / Rear Cam / Misc things - as well all the ACC / 12V / GND connections, and be running them from there.
I'll post pictures once I manage the time to do it.
The wire colors are different in my '08 -- Same position in A10 connector (pin 3/4)
Orange - Open
Pink - Close
And there is room behind / side of the radio.. you have to tuck it behind and on the side.. as the wires need to be clear of the radio door open/closing.
06-11-22, 11:21 AM
-- instead of the asking 28$ USD... since the shipping ended up being 30$ USD.. still ended up cheaper than me buying 2 units in Canada locally.
