When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Sorry I forgot the jumper. By the way, I use elm diag adaptor with all pins but 4 13 removed and a jumper installed. Cell phone app wouldn't clear a yawl dtc. Just a plug in to clear any fault. I'm so old and stove up, I can't see the plug let alone put a jumper in 4 13. I use a plus screw driver not a minus commonly referred to as a philips. I found a no.3 a bit too big, a no.1 a bit too small but a no.2 fit just right. Oh, crack the screws loose before pulling the ECU, it's bear to hold on to and break them loose in your hands.
If all you want is to get rid of throttle lag all you need is the basic, with no options. All of the performance improvement are at lower rpms, very little at high rpms. You don't need to wind the engine any higher. Call Brandon and discuss the options. He is a good guy to talk to.
What options did you guys pick for the Transmission Changes "Transmission Changes (changes can be tied to ect switch modes and snow mode)" Normal means its permanently flashed in all modes? or did you guys choose Power mode. Also the speed limiter? I didn't know our cars had a speed limiter. Anyone option the Crackle Tune???
What options did you guys pick for the Transmission Changes "Transmission Changes (changes can be tied to ect switch modes and snow mode)" Normal means its permanently flashed in all modes? or did you guys choose Power mode. Also the speed limiter? I didn't know our cars had a speed limiter. Anyone option the Crackle Tune???
i chose Power mode and therefore Snow becomes normal. I did not remove the speed limiter and did not choose Crackle. I am never going to put the pedal to the metal, but I do thoroughly like the quickness that the remap gives me. The only time I will use Normal would be on a trip in order to save gas.
After talking with Brandon, I decided to with remap control on power mode. I had thought snow mode would be best. I don't even consider driving in snow, even though I live in Ohio. It goes on the Battery Tender till spring. Brandon told me, I can use snow mode when cruising and increase my milage, so that is what I chose. I had never thought of that. It's like driving with simulated egg between your foot and the pedal. I can't say it actually works, it seems like it should.
I want to see how much the remap has improved acceleration. I downloaded four apps to measure acceleration, all were crap. One said, 4.99 0 to 60. That one was in normal mode. I couldn't even get a reading power mode. No way will an SC go that fast. The rest I couldn't even get a time. I guess an improvement of a couple tenths by seat of the pants. I would like to see the numbers. If you have found a good app let me know.
In my case all remapping changes only are supposed to occur in power mode. Normal and snow are not affected. I feel, normal mode is slightly more spirited. Could just be my imagination. I look at that as good not a bad thing.
If you choose the power mode, what's normal then? Stock no tune? Or is transmission tune permanently on?
The transmission chages are always on, no matter which button is selected. Transmission shifts are controlled by the transmission module and those changes cannot be undone by the selector switch.
Take a look at this video by Calvin Azzola of SC430Mods. It is an installation video of a remapped ECU and will answer some questions people may have. It’s a very helpful video, even for some people who already have a Quantum Auto remap.
Figured I'd add some content to this thread having just completed the upgrade myself.
I decided to upgrade the performance of my 2004 SC430 with a re-mapped ECU. I
didn't want to make any visually obvious changes to the car, so a simple ECU swap
seemed like the way to go. Additionally, I wanted to ability to easily return the car
to factory normal spec's. Having two ECU's seemed the best way to fit my needs.
I checked the actual Toyota part number on the original ECM and purchased a used
one with a 30 day warranty from an EBay seller with good rating. This would allow
me to swap back if needed and no down time while the ECU was away being massaged.
I found an exact P/N match ECU for around $80 delivered.
Next I ordered an OBD2 male plug. Found an inexpensive one on Amazon for around
$9.00 delivered. The ECM swap requires a 30 minute ECM authorization period that
needs to have OBD2 pins 4 and 14 Jumper'd. This can be done via a paper clip
inserted into the cars OBD2 connector but crawling under the dash and the possibility
of shorting out the wrong pin ( Pin 4 is Ground ) can be avoided with the male OBD2
cable properly configured. I already made one with Pin 4 to Pin 13 for the VSC/Trac
light reset. Now I have one for each operation.
After my used ECU arrived, I installed it into the SC, did the 30 minute authorization
with the OBD2 plug and drove the car for a day or two to verify it was 100% operational.
I swapped back to the original ECU and sent the used EBay unit off for the re-map.
Like others, I chose just the basic re-map options applied to the PWR setting. ECU
turn-around time was 7 days. For those thinking of doing this upgrade, I took some
pictures and videos of my process to assist. The procedure is very simple and doesn't
require a lot of tools or mechanical skills.
1. Open hood and locate the ECU module.
2. Remove the module plastic lid by removing the three 8mm bolts indicated.
3a. If you are just checking the ECU part number, you might be able to see it
without removing the ECU. If necessary you can remove the two 10mm nuts
indicated and slightly lift the ECU to see the part number.
3b. If you are swapping the ECU, ensure the key is NOT in the ignition switch
and un-plug the 5 connectors starting with the one at the most forward position
( toward the front of the car ). There is no need to disconnect the battery. Next
remove the two 10mm nuts and lift the ECU out of the plastic box.
4. Install the re-mapped ECU into the plastic box and secure it with the two 10mm
nuts. Insert the five plugs into the ECU, starting at the rear and working towards
the front of the car. These plugs are all "keyed" so you can't mix them up or plug
them in 180 degrees out.
5. Re-install the plastic cover with the three 8mm bolts.
6. Due to the fact that the car will sit for 30+ minutes with the ignition ON but the
engine not running, connect a battery charger to the cars battery. I set mine to
an 8 Amp charge to prevent any issues with battery depletion.
7. Next, insert the OBD2 jumper or jumper cable, insert the a working ignition key
and turn to the ON/RUN postion but don't start the engine. The dash will look
like this during the next 30 minutes :
8. After 30 minutes have passed, turn the ignition key to OFF and remove.
9. All done! The car will now start and run.
Possible issues :
1. If you get a used ECU, it might not come with the two mounting brackets.
This would require swapping those two brackets between the two ECU's
It is best to send the ECU without the brackets during re-mapping. They
are a nuisance and might get damaged during transit. Each bracket is
secured with two Phillips screws. They are very tight. Make sure you
are using the proper size/type Phillips screwdriver when removing them.
I used a #2 J.I.S. screwdriver for this.
Results :
1. The car starts and runs fine.
2. No C.E.L.'s
3. Everything still works, i.e., the top, cruise control, ABS, TRAC OFF switch,
Viper remote start, etc.
4. As stated in other posts, the SC430 seems normal while the switch is in the
normal position. In the PWR position, throttle tip-in is much quicker and the
transmission will downshift sooner and feel very firm and fast on upshifts.
5. I plan on going to the dragstrip on a Test/Tune night and get some real
world numbers. I believe that most car review magazine results were
around 6 seconds for 0 - 60 MPH and about 15.0 for the 1/4 mile.
Very nice description of installation of remapped ECU. Thank you Flip Top4. Just got back from 200+ ride through central Ohio Amish country today. I got an average of 26.4 MPG with a high of 27.3 MPG. I kinda romped on it toward the end. Remapping hasn't hurt milage at all when leaving settings in normal. By the way Mrs Yoder's best Amish restaurant in Ohio.
Hmm. I really want to maybe get this done over the winter when the SC hibernates, I really felt the difference when I did the transmission/gas pedal reset, it accelerates faster, shifts faster, and firmer without hesitation.
Hey, I know this thread is months old but I wanted to see if anyone who has gotten this ECU remap from Quantum (without deleting the O2 sensors) have had their SC430 pass state emissions test? I am planning on getting this done and need to know if it will cause the car to fail, if so I will get another stock ECU, and just swap out before the test.
08-15-22, 02:25 PM
