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The Lexus shop manual recommends a SST (special service tool) which is necessary to purge air from the Anti-lock brake solenoid block. (Bleeder screws on solenoid block)
AST TOOL offers a cap that fits quickly onto brake master cylinder reservoirs on most Toyota (Lexus) vehicles. Used in conjunction with pressure bleeder and 1/4" NPT fitting to flush brake fluid . The tool's design reduces time and effort when flushing the brake system.
For those who have tried everything else, yet still experiencing spongy or low pedal, this could be the answer.
AST TOOL.P.N. TOY18B Quality construction...
How exactly are you supposed to use this tool? I have the motive power bleeder with the universal adapter which I used on the GS but it took several attempts to get the universal adapter to hold pressure.
How exactly are you supposed to use this tool? I have the motive power bleeder with the universal adapter which I used on the GS but it took several attempts to get the universal adapter to hold pressure.
This is correct sized tool..not some one-sized fits all.
Following are. Instructions from Lexus Shop Manual:
Simply remove brake fluid resorvoir cap and replace with SST cap, connect pressurized air supply with just enough PSI to bleed system.
If unsure about any of this then have someone else perform work.
The above ABS actuator instructions are the same for 2001-2003 LS430 and takes 5-10 minutes. 04-06 removes these instructions and instead requires Techstream to operate the suction and pressure reduction lines. I suppose Techstream is a more thorough bleed, but takes closer to 2 hours or more if you don't have a lift. I think you can get at least 80% of the Techstream results in 5 minutes doing it the pre-2004 way.
You should be able to use a SpeediBleed K800 instead of the Toyota 09992-00242 tool and instead of the Assenmacher TOY18B. The K800 claims to fit the Toyota/Lexus 42 mm ID filler neck and uses air from the nearest tire - DOES NOT REQUIRE AIR COMPRESSOR/regulated air source and finding related fittings, and does not need manual pumping to maintain correct pressure like the Motive. Not all of us have the space to set up an air compressor in our home garages - the K800 is a high quality tool that saves time and money. People have used the K800 to bleed their brakes and clutches at the track and on the side of the road, and professional indie shops report using it as well.
K800 has a dial gauge so you should be able to easily set it 14-15 psi, close enough to the 14.2psi service spec (don't set higher than 15 to try to speed up the process, you can damage something). You can optionally add fluid to the K800 to keep the reservoir topped up or just run it dry to emulate the Toyota tool.
The non-pro version of the K800, the K800B, uses a PVC instead of EPDM air hose (EPDM is what good timing belts and serpentine belts are made of), and plastic instead of brass tire air hose connector. No point going with the cheaper parts that won't last anywhere near as long.
The correct tool is the Toyota 09992-00242. Any tools not in the service manual is not a "correct" tool, including the Assenmacher TOY18B. Since we are talking non-correct tools like TOY18B, I'll introduce the well-known and not-random Motive 0101 - it has mixed reviews from many ClubLexus members - many people say it leaks at the cap, others say it's a hassle to get the cap to seal properly, others have had to build their own caps to get it to work correctly. Since the Motive loses pressure as the system bleeds, the K800 is more convenient by constantly applying whatever pressure you set (that is, unless your tire runs out of air).
The above ABS actuator instructions are the same for 2001-2003 LS430 and takes 5-10 minutes. 04-06 removes these instructions and instead requires Techstream to operate the suction and pressure reduction lines. I suppose Techstream is a more thorough bleed, but takes closer to 2 hours or more if you don't have a lift. I think you can get at least 80% of the Techstream results in 5 minutes doing it the pre-2004 way.
You should be able to use a SpeediBleed K800 instead of the Toyota 09992-00242 tool and instead of the Assenmacher TOY18B. The K800 claims to fit the Toyota/Lexus 42 mm ID filler neck and uses air from the nearest tire instead of requiring an air compressor and finding fittings, or manually pumping to maintain correct pressure like the Motive. People have used the K800 to bleed their brakes and clutches at the track and on the side of the road.
K800 has a dial gauge so you should be able to easily set it 14-15 psi, close enough to the 14.2psi service spec (don't set higher than 15 to try to speed up the process, you can damage something). You can optionally add fluid to the K800 to keep the reservoir topped up or just run it dry to emulate the Toyota tool.
The non-pro version of the K800, the K800B, uses a PVC instead of EPDM air hose (EPDM is what good timing belts and serpentine belts are made of), and plastic instead of brass tire air hose connector. No point going with the cheaper parts that won't last anywhere near as long.
The Motive 0101 seems to have mixed reviews, some people say it leaks at the cap, others say it's a hassle to get the cap to seal properly, others have had to build their own caps to get it to work correctly. Since the Motive loses pressure as the system bleeds, the K800 is more convenient by constantly applying whatever pressure you set (that is, unless your tire runs out of air).
How did we come to some random tool brand with mixed reviews??
AST is the correct tool for the job.
Reliably used it yesterday after disconnecting brake lines to replace chassis rubber through-hole brake line grommets.
Works well....
One person brake bleeding and necessary to bleed anti-lock brake solenoid block. I use it to purge brake lines of old fluid. DOT 3 has an affinity for moisture, and tarnishes with underhood heat.
Several images of the brake reservoir pressure tool in use:
AST brake Reservoir tool with clamping mechanism. Tool mounted atop brake fluid reservoir. Pressure regulator set around 15 PSI Antilock brake solenoid block. Bleed screw topside. Using thickwall clear tube to view absense of bubbles and clarity of fluid. Fluid in glass jar was somewhat cloudy.
Yoda- How much is the AST TOY18B? I went to the website but it doesn't provide the price. Btw, do you know if Toyota uses open or closed ABS brake system? If it's open then when you bleed the lines, it should also bleed & replace the old fluid at the actuator w/ fresh fluid. Judging by the instructions you've attached, it must be a closed system, correct?
Yoda- How much is the AST TOY18B? I went to the website but it doesn't provide the price. Btw, do you know if Toyota uses open or closed ABS brake system? If it's open then when you bleed the lines, it should also bleed & replace the old fluid at the actuator w/ fresh fluid. Judging by the instructions you've attached, it must be a closed system, correct?
You can contact AST for pricing.
They may work through distribution.
Lexus' Shop Manual does not indicate whether an open or closed system.
If the fluid reservoir is emptied, then the ABS solenoid block must be bled.
Since I was flushing brake fluid, I bled brake lines first and ABS block second to insure all old fluid and air was purged from the system.
My calipers were recently rebuilt using Toyota seal kits...sometimes a second bleeding after driving awhile helps improve pedal feel.
New fluid provided a very slight, but noticeable improvement in pedal feel.
Even though there are rubber caps on bleeder screws, penetrating oil helps when opening brake fittings....and almost mandatory to prevent breakage if no rubber caps on bleeder screws in rust belt States.
I was just curios how much the tool cost only as my brake is perfectly fine. Thought you would disclose the price so whoever needs it could save a call. A quick search on eBay shows it's ~ $60. Anyway, there are other tools/scanners out there i.e. the Autel MaxiCheck Pro that you can hook up via the OBDII port to activate the ABS pump/actuator. It'll auto bleed & force any air inside the ABS into the brake lines then you can proceed w/ the traditional manual bleeding at the 4 corners but I have to say the Toyota's bleeding method which you're using by also purging the air out at the ABS is better because once you're done, the entire brake system including the ABS will have fresh brake fluid. It worth a small investment. Thanks.
I was just curios how much the tool cost only as my brake is perfectly fine. Thought you would disclose the price so whoever needs it could save a call. A quick search on eBay shows it's ~ $60. Anyway, there are other tools/scanners out there i.e. the Autel MaxiCheck Pro that you can hook up via the OBDII port to activate the ABS pump/actuator. It'll auto bleed & force any air inside the ABS into the brake lines then you can proceed w/ the traditional manual bleeding at the 4 corners but I have to say the Toyota's bleeding method which you're using by also purging the air out at the ABS is better because once you're done, the entire brake system including the ABS will have fresh brake fluid. It worth a small investment. Thanks.
There is little information on the ABS solenoid block...
I was just curios how much the tool cost only as my brake is perfectly fine. Thought you would disclose the price so whoever needs it could save a call. A quick search on eBay shows it's ~ $60. Anyway, there are other tools/scanners out there i.e. the Autel MaxiCheck Pro that you can hook up via the OBDII port to activate the ABS pump/actuator. It'll auto bleed & force any air inside the ABS into the brake lines then you can proceed w/ the traditional manual bleeding at the 4 corners but I have to say the Toyota's bleeding method which you're using by also purging the air out at the ABS is better because once you're done, the entire brake system including the ABS will have fresh brake fluid. It worth a small investment. Thanks.
Cost effective tool.
Even if you don't do your own brakes, something to have available for the tech.
There is little information on the ABS solenoid block...
Probably it contains o-rings or rubber seals of some sort.
Anyone opened one of these with images or rebuild information?
Toyota/Lexus presents this SST in the shop manual as a way to avoid actuating the solenoid block with an OBDII port tool.
It is unclear whether an electronic actuating tool is ever required....perhaps when replacing the solenoid block.
At 15 PSI, it makes efficient one-person work of bleeding brake lines and ABS actuator.
I observed a few minuscule remnant bubbles from the rear lines in the clear brake bleeding hose.
Overall a good system...(except I prefer the monoblock front, and rear mooblock fixed two-piston calipers on LS430)
The above ABS actuator instructions are the same for 2001-2003 LS430 and takes 5-10 minutes. 04-06 removes these instructions and instead requires Techstream to operate the suction and pressure reduction lines. I suppose Techstream is a more thorough bleed, but takes closer to 2 hours or more if you don't have a lift. I think you can get at least 80% of the Techstream results in 5 minutes doing it the pre-2004 way.
You should be able to use a SpeediBleed K800 instead of the Toyota 09992-00242 tool and instead of the Assenmacher TOY18B. The K800 claims to fit the Toyota/Lexus 42 mm ID filler neck and uses air from the nearest tire instead of requiring an air compressor and finding fittings, or manually pumping to maintain correct pressure like the Motive. People have used the K800 to bleed their brakes and clutches at the track and on the side of the road.
K800 has a dial gauge so you should be able to easily set it 14-15 psi, close enough to the 14.2psi service spec (don't set higher than 15 to try to speed up the process, you can damage something). You can optionally add fluid to the K800 to keep the reservoir topped up or just run it dry to emulate the Toyota tool.
The non-pro version of the K800, the K800B, uses a PVC instead of EPDM air hose (EPDM is what good timing belts and serpentine belts are made of), and plastic instead of brass tire air hose connector. No point going with the cheaper parts that won't last anywhere near as long.
The Motive 0101 seems to have mixed reviews, some people say it leaks at the cap, others say it's a hassle to get the cap to seal properly, others have had to build their own caps to get it to work correctly. Since the Motive loses pressure as the system bleeds, the K800 is more convenient by constantly applying whatever pressure you set (that is, unless your tire runs out of air).
When performing work with brake fluid , I always keep a bucket of soapy water with sponge on hand .
Any leakage at brake fluid reservoir neck may allow compressed brake fluid to spray out.(somewhat like a shaken (now pressurized) soda can).
No room for error when it comes to preserving an LS400 paint job.
Absolutely. Brake fluid contains glycol which will become acidic under oxidation. That's why it's very corrosive on wet surface & will destroy the paint on your car so wipe it off immediately. Even if you washed it off immediately, it may even be too late as it has already destroyed your clear coat so be extra careful when it comes to handling brake fluid.
Several images of the brake reservoir pressure tool in use:
AST brake Reservoir tool with clamping mechanism. Tool mounted atop brake fluid reservoir. Pressure regulator set around 15 PSI Antilock brake solenoid block. Bleed screw topside. Using thickwall clear tube to view absense of bubbles and clarity of fluid. Fluid in glass jar was somewhat cloudy.
Yoda- My 97 LS400 doesn't have a bleed screw on the ABS solenoid block. What year is yours?
10-10-17, 04:48 PM
Necessary brake bleeding tool
