Is my LS430 dying? Please help.
12-30-17, 06:27 AM
#16
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
LS430inDE. it has 166k on the clock.
This morning I decided to go ahead and do the ECM reset. Pulled the negative terminal and let it sit for 15 minutes or so. Seems to have fixed the problem. Not sure why but the acceleration is back. Still having a ticking issue under the hood though. Noisy lifter?? I run only Mobil1.
This morning I decided to go ahead and do the ECM reset. Pulled the negative terminal and let it sit for 15 minutes or so. Seems to have fixed the problem. Not sure why but the acceleration is back. Still having a ticking issue under the hood though. Noisy lifter?? I run only Mobil1.
12-30-17, 06:30 AM
#17
Lexus Fanatic
Good to hear...imho mine likely has a tick if I listen for it (100k). So now I do the relatively speaking thing. I have a BMW with an inline 6--it is smooth as silk at any rpm. However, it is noisy at idle, lots of ticking sounds, and it's not valves, it's direct injection which our LS' don't have. But the LS in comparison, is silent. If I"m not mistaken the 3UZ has a valve adjustment procedure, but I doubt it's worth doing (someone please correct me if I'm wrong). My Maxima has one too, and I never did it in about 250k, and there was no detriment...and again that car is silent compared to the BMW....my .02
p.s. me too, either Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum 5W30, with a WIX XP filter, because those two brands always have a $12 or a $10 rebate on a $23 jug....
p.s. me too, either Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum 5W30, with a WIX XP filter, because those two brands always have a $12 or a $10 rebate on a $23 jug....
12-30-17, 08:09 AM
#18
LS430inDE. it has 166k on the clock.
This morning I decided to go ahead and do the ECM reset. Pulled the negative terminal and let it sit for 15 minutes or so. Seems to have fixed the problem. Not sure why but the acceleration is back. Still having a ticking issue under the hood though. Noisy lifter?? I run only Mobil1.
This morning I decided to go ahead and do the ECM reset. Pulled the negative terminal and let it sit for 15 minutes or so. Seems to have fixed the problem. Not sure why but the acceleration is back. Still having a ticking issue under the hood though. Noisy lifter?? I run only Mobil1.
LS430inDE. it has 166k on the clock.
This morning I decided to go ahead and do the ECM reset. Pulled the negative terminal and let it sit for 15 minutes or so. Seems to have fixed the problem. Not sure why but the acceleration is back. Still having a ticking issue under the hood though. Noisy lifter?? I run only Mobil1.
This morning I decided to go ahead and do the ECM reset. Pulled the negative terminal and let it sit for 15 minutes or so. Seems to have fixed the problem. Not sure why but the acceleration is back. Still having a ticking issue under the hood though. Noisy lifter?? I run only Mobil1.
You are not hearing a lifter tick that is the cars injectors you are hearing.
12-30-17, 03:52 PM
#19
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
First, I want to really thank y'all for answering my post. Looks like the car is back to normal. The ECM reset seems to be working still. I never woulda thought.
Second, I have a basic understanding of what the reset did - erased the ECM's learned memory of my driving habits (like rebooting my PC when Windows gets slow). But there has to be more to it. Can somebody explain to me specifically how an ECM reset would simply make a lethargic engine run normal again?
Third, is an ECM reset something that should be performed on a routine maintenance schedule? Maybe once a year or something like that? Does anyone do this?
You guys saved my butt. Thanks again!
Josh
Second, I have a basic understanding of what the reset did - erased the ECM's learned memory of my driving habits (like rebooting my PC when Windows gets slow). But there has to be more to it. Can somebody explain to me specifically how an ECM reset would simply make a lethargic engine run normal again?
Third, is an ECM reset something that should be performed on a routine maintenance schedule? Maybe once a year or something like that? Does anyone do this?
You guys saved my butt. Thanks again!
Josh
12-30-17, 04:13 PM
#20
First, I want to really thank y'all for answering my post. Looks like the car is back to normal. The ECM reset seems to be working still. I never woulda thought.
Second, I have a basic understanding of what the reset did - erased the ECM's learned memory of my driving habits (like rebooting my PC when Windows gets slow). But there has to be more to it. Can somebody explain to me specifically how an ECM reset would simply make a lethargic engine run normal again?
Third, is an ECM reset something that should be performed on a routine maintenance schedule? Maybe once a year or something like that? Does anyone do this?
You guys saved my butt. Thanks again!
Josh
Second, I have a basic understanding of what the reset did - erased the ECM's learned memory of my driving habits (like rebooting my PC when Windows gets slow). But there has to be more to it. Can somebody explain to me specifically how an ECM reset would simply make a lethargic engine run normal again?
Third, is an ECM reset something that should be performed on a routine maintenance schedule? Maybe once a year or something like that? Does anyone do this?
You guys saved my butt. Thanks again!
Josh
12-30-17, 04:58 PM
#22
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Thankfully, there were no error codes in the ECM and the mechanic said fuel pressure was fine and all sensors were performing properly. I will follow up with you guys if the problem comes back...
12-31-17, 09:18 AM
#23
Joshlee sorry to hear that you have issues with such a reliable car as LS430.
here is my advice. First thing I would do is throw away K&N filter in trash and replace it with original denso air filter. Second, knowing about that filter, I will purchase a new Denso MAF available for less than 50 dollars on eBay. Third, I will purchase two bottles of BG fuel system cleaner and pour them in full tank and drive it all on interstate. Fourth, I will take the battery out for more than an hour. Fifth, I will remove all ingition coils, check the seals and potential oil. Sixth, before putting back coils, I would replace all spark plugs with OEM denso and verify the old plugs condition. Seventh, Install all coils back while lubing rubber with dielectric grease. Eighth, remove throttle body and clean it thoroughly as well as idle port. Ninth, install the battery, turn on the car and forget about issues that you stated.
here is my advice. First thing I would do is throw away K&N filter in trash and replace it with original denso air filter. Second, knowing about that filter, I will purchase a new Denso MAF available for less than 50 dollars on eBay. Third, I will purchase two bottles of BG fuel system cleaner and pour them in full tank and drive it all on interstate. Fourth, I will take the battery out for more than an hour. Fifth, I will remove all ingition coils, check the seals and potential oil. Sixth, before putting back coils, I would replace all spark plugs with OEM denso and verify the old plugs condition. Seventh, Install all coils back while lubing rubber with dielectric grease. Eighth, remove throttle body and clean it thoroughly as well as idle port. Ninth, install the battery, turn on the car and forget about issues that you stated.
12-31-17, 04:19 PM
#24
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Ok y'all, a quick follow up. The car seems to be running fine. HOWEVER, one of the other issues I had last week was a noticeable ticking or clunking - has returned.
Here is the deal: Car is cold from sitting over night.
Start the engine - engine runs fine, smooth and quiet.
Put the car in gear - something starts ticking, loud enough to hear in the driver's seat.
Ticking increases with car speed.
Shift back to park or neutral, ticking goes away.
Here is the rub - after driving for a minute or two, the ticking goes away and stays away until cold again.
Also, the transmission shifts fine, no over-revving, and no hard shifting or other strange noises.
I did a search of the forums and really didnt find anything close to what may be going on. My mechanic said he thinks it may be the tranny. So I called several trans shops in my area and they didnt think it was the tranny based on the fact that it is running fine otherwise.
Any ideas?
Here is the deal: Car is cold from sitting over night.
Start the engine - engine runs fine, smooth and quiet.
Put the car in gear - something starts ticking, loud enough to hear in the driver's seat.
Ticking increases with car speed.
Shift back to park or neutral, ticking goes away.
Here is the rub - after driving for a minute or two, the ticking goes away and stays away until cold again.
Also, the transmission shifts fine, no over-revving, and no hard shifting or other strange noises.
I did a search of the forums and really didnt find anything close to what may be going on. My mechanic said he thinks it may be the tranny. So I called several trans shops in my area and they didnt think it was the tranny based on the fact that it is running fine otherwise.
Any ideas?
12-31-17, 05:46 PM
#25
Joshlee, this is not tranny issue. The real problem here was that air filter that you installed. It could contribute/aggravate some other issues in your car that now are exposed.
12-31-17, 06:06 PM
#26
Ok y'all, a quick follow up. The car seems to be running fine. HOWEVER, one of the other issues I had last week was a noticeable ticking or clunking - has returned.
Here is the deal: Car is cold from sitting over night.
Start the engine - engine runs fine, smooth and quiet.
Put the car in gear - something starts ticking, loud enough to hear in the driver's seat.
Ticking increases with car speed.
Shift back to park or neutral, ticking goes away.
Here is the rub - after driving for a minute or two, the ticking goes away and stays away until cold again.
Also, the transmission shifts fine, no over-revving, and no hard shifting or other strange noises.
I did a search of the forums and really didnt find anything close to what may be going on. My mechanic said he thinks it may be the tranny. So I called several trans shops in my area and they didnt think it was the tranny based on the fact that it is running fine otherwise.
Any ideas?
Here is the deal: Car is cold from sitting over night.
Start the engine - engine runs fine, smooth and quiet.
Put the car in gear - something starts ticking, loud enough to hear in the driver's seat.
Ticking increases with car speed.
Shift back to park or neutral, ticking goes away.
Here is the rub - after driving for a minute or two, the ticking goes away and stays away until cold again.
Also, the transmission shifts fine, no over-revving, and no hard shifting or other strange noises.
I did a search of the forums and really didnt find anything close to what may be going on. My mechanic said he thinks it may be the tranny. So I called several trans shops in my area and they didnt think it was the tranny based on the fact that it is running fine otherwise.
Any ideas?
If the sound increases with the speed of the car it is either the motor, transmission, or driveline.
I would use some seafoam or amsoil motor flush and see if that makes it go away you could have a sticking lifter that would make the clicking sound when your car is cold and disappear when it's warmed up.
Another question is it a thunking sound or a clicking sound like a sewing machine kind of.
Does it sound like this?
https://youtu.be/ikmJ4-RcGDw
Last edited by 05ls430518; 12-31-17 at 06:19 PM.
12-31-17, 07:26 PM
#27
Please do not listen to ls430w140 it has nothing to do with your k&n filter, do not just throw random parts at your car in hoping it will fix the problem.
If the sound increases with the speed of the car it is either the motor, transmission, or driveline.
I would use some seafoam or amsoil motor flush and see if that makes it go away you could have a sticking lifter that would make the clicking sound when your car is cold and disappear when it's warmed up.
Another question is it a thunking sound or a clicking sound like a sewing machine kind of.
Does it sound like this?
https://youtu.be/ikmJ4-RcGDw
If the sound increases with the speed of the car it is either the motor, transmission, or driveline.
I would use some seafoam or amsoil motor flush and see if that makes it go away you could have a sticking lifter that would make the clicking sound when your car is cold and disappear when it's warmed up.
Another question is it a thunking sound or a clicking sound like a sewing machine kind of.
Does it sound like this?
https://youtu.be/ikmJ4-RcGDw
Lol don’t get me wrong I know dealers charge a good fee for diagnostics but I don’t feel like the author of the topic wants to throw unlimited money in bad work. But I still bet on air filter and those 9 steps that I outlined previously which may be that basic thing that needs to be done instead of going in to tranny or engine malfunction.
12-31-17, 08:27 PM
#28
Lol don’t get me wrong I know dealers charge a good fee for diagnostics but I don’t feel like the author of the topic wants to throw unlimited money in bad work. But I still bet on air filter and those 9 steps that I outlined previously which may be that basic thing that needs to be done instead of going in to tranny or engine malfunction.
It is a sticking lifter making the sound I am 99% sure there is no way a air filter is making his motor tick.
Last edited by 05ls430518; 12-31-17 at 08:37 PM.
12-31-17, 08:45 PM
#29
What your suggesting has 0 correlation to what is wrong with his car it is a mechanical issue it is something in his motor when it is under load when it's cold out it gets louder that is his motor. It sounds like something is not getting oil immediately and that is the problem. If it was any of the things you said there would be a code being thrown.
It is a sticking lifter making the sound I am 99% sure there is no way a air filter is making his motor tick.
It is a sticking lifter making the sound I am 99% sure there is no way a air filter is making his motor tick.
Let’s wait for the correct diagnosis until you suggest some imaginative broken part in the engine. I listed above what I would do to eliminate air/fuel factor which may cost less than diagnosis fee for the third or fourth time which doesn’t bring any results. The filter itself has nothing to do with loud sound. Please read again what I wrote above.
12-31-17, 09:32 PM
#30
Let’s wait for the correct diagnosis until you suggest some imaginative broken part in the engine. I listed above what I would do to eliminate air/fuel factor which may cost less than diagnosis fee for the third or fourth time which doesn’t bring any results. The filter itself has nothing to do with loud sound. Please read again what I wrote above.