I'll disagree with you regarding air entering the brake lines through the bleeder valve threads. When I loosen the valve, I'll crack it loose aka break torque, then STOP loosening. I don't loosen 3 revolutions nor 2 nor not even 1 revolution. I don't loosen to the point where the valve is about to fall out! I break torque, then wait for fluid to drip. At that point, I'm pumping, and it's a 1-way street, out, with fluid draining into my Gatorade jar.

Do we know exactly how much brake fluid it takes to fill the LS brake lines, calipers, master cylinder, and all abs associated components? I can say I've used an entire 32oz of brake fluid, plus half a 2nd 32oz bottle, when changing my brake fluid. That's about 48oz of fluid. How much fluid is 'trapped' by the abs devices? 24oz?..doubt it. 12oz?..doubt it. 6oz?..no idea, but I'm just guessing maybe 6oz is close?

The dirtiest/most rancid/acidic/damaging brake fluid is the 3oz that is directly inside each brake caliper. If you're able to flush those 4 corners out, you're ahead of 99% of the folks out there. Not sure about you guys, but I haven't had a leaking abs module or seized abs module or any failure of an abs associated device because new/clean brake fluid wasn't flushed through it.

Regarding the OP and expecting an extremely thorough brake fluid flush/changeout when done at the dealer, I totally agree. If it wasn't done properly, then he needs to revisit the dealer and show how black or discolored the fluid is. Everyone would agree that the master cylinder should be full of nearly clear colored brake oil, even lighter than ginger ale color. If it's anything less, I'm sure the dealer would agree to take the vehicle back and re-do it, or re-do it properly.

 

I'm going to guess that the golden brown color you now see in your LS was there at the dealership. There simply isn't enough movement of the ~6oz of brake fluid in the master cyl to "mix" and get diluted aka 'dirtied' by brake fluid in the brake lines and at the the worst spots for the fluid, AT the calipers, let alone the 2oz or 4oz or whatever oz within the abs modules. It's not like coolant that's swirling around by the water pump! Maybe they filled your resevoir up from an old and opened bottle of brake fluid, that wasn't capped tightly, and it oxidized and absorbed water before they filled you up? I think THAT is more likely a culprit of golden brown color in the master, unless all your lines were full of Hershey's chocolate syrup and 1oz of the sweet brown ice cream topping bubbled up and mixed with the clear/clean oil in your master cy, giving you the resulting golden brown color!!!!?

 

I think I've come across so much of the "close enough for govt. work" mentality as I've gotten older....I believe, that if you've maintained a Lexus by the book, well, then you are going to flush your brakes every 2, and you're never going to realize that the dealer simply turkey basted the master cylinder. As much as I thought that BMW service wasn't all that great, I've come to realize that if you observe it, it is "by the book." For example, you pull your car in for an alignment, and everything is green upon entry. They set everything to the middle of each range. And by the way I'vefound Lexus service, item for item, apples for apples, to be the same as BMW for cost, i.e. relatively expensive (you don't want to pay a lot and not get the work you paid for)....

Again is having a helper going to accomplish the same as a Motive? Sure, just that the helper has to be careful not to push too hard, and not to release their foot, until the bleeder is closed. How long is the helper going to be with you, and what is their time worth. Like a comment that was posted here, I don't believe it is the best thing, to open the bleeder with a tube submerged in fluid. From practice, that isn't going to work well, and it's certainly not the best way to do things. The official BMW procedure, even when bleeding the ABS with the computer, is to pressurize the system from the master side. And with the premium Motives being $70, and the cheaper ones $52, I think it's a tool that's worth the money...I was even thinking, if the adapter for American cars is $26, and the entire Motive is $52, I may spend $52 on a 2nd unit, to avoid having to continually disconnect the hoses with wrenches for each car, and this may give me the opportunity to use it with Lexus and American, and fill the device with DOT 3. I just wouldn't want to use DOT 3 and DOT 4 in the same Motive...but so far, I've not put fluid in the one I have....(makes me wonder, would a muffler shop say ah, it's a tiny bit of fluid, so what if we mix DOT 3 and DOT 4)

edit: p.s. when I did the BMW ABS module, noteworthy is that a normal $120 BMW brake flush, that does NOT include the computer bleed, this is one bleed, at each caliper. The ABS procedure is 3 in total. The first bleed is a complete flush. The 2nd and 3rd are air bubbles, the 2nd being with the computer. BMW stresses one cannot get the air bubbles out of the ABS module by pressure, or by foot, the computer must pulse each channel individually. Guys on the forum have said no, I didn't bother, and I'm fine--to each his own. So with my BMW, officially, a flush is < 3 pints (the metric equivalent). Going overboard, I ended up using just over 5 (just over, so I have a nearly wasted 6th that was opened). But even DOT 4 is relatively cheap....the job is all labor...so you can see by % I wasted a TON of fluid (over 2 pints), but I know for a fact, that by wasting maybe $11, all of the old fluid was removed...and yes that is what I would want for the LS430

 

I have the motive and while it worked I had a helluva time trying to get that plastic cap to hold pressure on the Master Cylinder. If the posted cap can improve the process then I'm all for it. I hate to have ask someone to help me bleed the brakes.

 

Look up and purchase speed bleeders. They screw in and replace the oem bleeder. When in use, they take pressure to bleed through a one way valve. So one person can bleed the brake doing a pressure bleed. You seal them when done.

Added tip; when doing a 2 person bleed is that while pressure is applied, tap the caliper with a plastic mallet to knock stuck air bubbles free. While under pressure the bubbles combine and are more likely to rise and exit when the bleed valve opens.

And ya, it could help with a speed bleeding but higher pressure is best.

 

can anyone explain these npt fittings? Lets call them 1,2,3,4, starting on the left.

#4 is obviously the adapter which goes on the reservoir.

#2 and #3, I had in my basement, and I would have expected the quick connect #2 to fit #4, but it does not. You can see how #3 and #4 are different.

The far left #1 is my hose with the nipple and 1/4" fitting.

Apparently, a home center store should have the correct quick connect, but I'm wondering why #3 and #4 are different.

Thanks.

 

John,

Unfortunately there are a lot of different standards available when it comes to using air line pressure fittings. Some are and some aren't compatible with others. To see what I mean, just go to this link.

You might be able to get the specific connector ID'ed by the manufacturer of that product if you ask them here. If you do find out, please post back as I'm interested in picking up one of those covers myself.

As an aside, I upgraded my air line fittings last October to Milton's V-style in order to get all of the capability out of my impact wrench. This worked wonders when I had to remove the crankshaft nut off of the harmonic balancer. The nut came off like a champ...

 

Once I have a chance to go to the home center store I'll check, seems like folks just went there and got the quick connect....seems the silver ones are totally common and what I would expect when needing to setup a new air hose, note how the gold one is very shallow and actually the hole is 1/2 the size of the silver, so the silver coupler cannot insert itself. Seems the gold, it wants to be the male....and so the coupler would be female and have the gold pressed into it...

edit: p.s. I believe I am misusing the term male and female, as that refers to the threads, not the end. It would seem this BA10 part has an "automotive interchange?"

Look at this coupler, it seems to accept more than one kind of piece, industrial, automotive, and ARO. And look at the 2nd link I think we're getting warmer with the automotive plug--I saw that term used in a review of the item




https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-...00AV/100050587



edit 2 In my best estimation, with this piece (not carried locally? but order online), this would couple to the cap, then accept the nipple with my 1/4" ID hose. I know this is not rocket science but what the hey.....

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Primefit-1-4-in-Automotive-6-Ball-Brass-Coupler-with-1-4-in-Female-NPT-TC1414FB6/205149484?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CTHD%7Cgoogle%7C&mid=sGGzTBmKX%7Cdm_mtid_8903tb925190_pcrid_111416414825_pkw__pmt__product_205149484_slid_&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-t3D_Zm_2AIVCxGBCh1Kmwf_EAQYBSABEgK0avD_BwE


https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Stee...otive/50129866

 

After looking at various plugs on the Milton website I'd bet that the BA10 is using a T-type plug. You could try taking the part down to your local Menard's, Loew's, Home Depot, auto store to see if you can find a coupling that will mate up...

 

It's definitely the 1/4" automotive interchange coupler that's needed.

This Bostitch BTFP72321 cost $3 and fits 3 kinds of plugs--I tried 2 and it works. Looking forward to DIY'ing from now on....imho it's just like oil, if you want it done properly, may have to just DIY...

 

Now show me how you attach it to the Motive bleeder.

 

I'm surprised (not really) to hear about your experience with the bad brake flush at the dealer. After all, they are the one with the proper scan tool to open up the ABS solenoids for a complete flush (see Step 4 of the attached).

Without activating the ABS, you will have a fair amount of old fluid trapped in the ABS, which will expel into the main arteries the next time you slam on the brake. Perhaps, that is the way to do a complete flush if you don't have access to the factory hand-held scan tool. That is, flush the brake lines, then take the car out and slam on the brake while doing doughnuts to activate the ABS. Do this a couple of times so the ABS is refilled with clean brake fluid, then flush the main arteries again.

 

here, where any Motive hose would attach. Since I only push air with mine, I'll use the same with 3 different adapters. If I did push fluid, just me, I wouldn't want to mix Dot 4 and Dot 3....

 

Again, from the BMW world, they get $120-$140 for a brake flush. The cars have this on their computer/CBS system so there is a reminder for every 2 yrs. For this price, THEY DO NOT do an computer bleed which they call ABL. The ABL is only when a) the ABS/DSC pump has been removed and reinstalled (like I did), or if a hydraulic component has been removed. Personally, I don't get why if a caliper is removed, why that is necessary, but that's the book.

So if Toyota were similar to BMW, then activating ABS would not be necessary on the normal every 2 yr. flush. But what does get me is imho all 4 calipers should be bled, meaning all the fluid from the master to the caliper, and if all they're going to do is a turkey baster method, then don't even bother. BMW states you cannot activate the ABS by foot (drive on wet or gravel) and get the air bubbles out of the ABS pump, it is not possible--that is the official position. Yet guys on the forum said that's what they did.

Side note: When I did do the ABL bleed on BMW, quite a lot of fluid was pushed out by the computer, from memory, maybe more than 1/4 of a Motive catch bottle? The sound the pump made was zzzzz zzzzz zzzzz zzzzz zzzzz zzzzz, about that long. And for whatever reason, I did it 2X with my laptop (overkill). I'm not planning on doing this on my next flush, which I think is in June...

Sometimes I think maybe we shade trees would be much happier if we were just fat dumb and happy and just took our cars to the dealer, paid them, and never inspected the work nor looked back. It takes wealth to get into that position....