When i am flushing my brake fluid if i remove the abs pump resistor and any other abs resistors would that leave the a s system/pump open or closed while doing my brake flush.

 

not sure, but why would you bother with it? I don't know the design of the abs system on these cars but the amount of fluid in that system has to be trivial compared to total fluid no? i've flushed the LS many times over the years and never worried about it.

 

Just applying what I know from BMW, I would leave it alone.....BMW only recommends it when the ABS/DSC pump has been removed (which was my situation). They also recommend it when a caliper has been removed. But it requires a laptop/software to pulse the pump, or one of the newer handheld tools. The main purpose though is air, not fluid left behind. I took a closer look at the actual reservoir in the LS this weekend, and imho, I don't think the Lexus dealer did the turkey baster method on my car. I think what they likely did was to flush out one caliper only, rather than all four (imagine if I had a dash cam I wouldn't be speculating). The reservoir seems too tiny to effectively accomplish anything with a turkey baster...my .02

 

So best way I have found to do by yourself, is to go youtube and find the Gatorade bottle method. Basically the fill bottle has some fluid in it already so the system stays closed at the caliper end.

suction out the reservoir and top off then pump some out, top off and repeat on each corner (use best practices for the order to do each corner).

But easy/cheap to do and safe that you wont gulp air back in to the brake lines.

 

I am just wondering if you could flush the entire system then why wouldn't you yah know that was my logic behind the question. I have flushed brakes before i just never thought about the fluid in the actual abs pump, best way to clean it out would probably be to flush the brakes go drive the car engage the abs(slam on the brakes a couple times) then flush the system again...i feel that may be overkill haha

 

as a matter of fact, this is exactly the method recommended for the LX470, which i've used a couple times. I believe the reason is that the LX has some sort of extra backup brake circuit tied into the ABS that holds some amount of fluid and the only way to flush it out is to slam on the brakes over gravel or ice, thus activating the ABS pump. I've not heard that suggestion relative to the LS however. Either we don't have that kind of brake system, or we're a different crowd than the guys over on IH8MUD.

Flushing your brakes is of course good practice, but on the other hand, have you heard of many lexus brake master cylinders or wheel cylinders going bad? And how many regular joe's flush their brakes at all over a normal lifetime? a lot of people never do it, and yet the cylinders seem OK...ha, maybe we're just wasting money.

 

I don't believe this method is ideal, without pressurizing the system, it's pretty difficult to prevent air from being sucked back in, even if the tube is kept submerged...a Motive isn't that expensive, but you need the Toyota adapter since Motive doesn't seem to have one that's specific (I believe it has a chain to hold the adapter down and some say that doesn't work well)

 

yeah you pressurize the system with a friend pumping the pedal while you put a wrench on the bleeder screw. Or wife. They're good at that. They push the pedal down, you open the screw, fluid flows out, you close the screw, pedal comes up, repeat, top off the master. Been doing it that way for years. I guess if you absolutely have nobody that can help then you have to buy one of the myriad gadgets out there that does one man bleeding. speedbleeders, motiv, vacula, mityvac, harbor freight and walmart all sell tools for this, pros and cons for each.

 

I am one of those people were i would rather go over board then not enough especially with something as vital as brakes, and yah i think that there is not a lot of knowlegable on the ls due to the lack of interests in a performance aspect of the car hence why there is very little knowledge available for it, but yah i am gonna do the slam the brakes on gravel method lol

 

The LX and GX use a integrated master cylinder and hydraulic power assist system - high-pressure brake fluid works the power brake servo instead of using a vacuum-operated diaphragm to help make it easier to push the pedal. Hence the reason for pumping down the brake pedal before bleeding the brakes, high pressure brake fluid can be a liquid knife and in case you get it injected in you it's a trip to the ER. All the LS cars use a conventional vacuum-operated power booster.

If it's normal brake bleeding for flushing out the system or replacing a wheel-end part, there's no need to disable the ABS. Bleed as usual with the pump or pressure methods.

 

The Motive bleeder doesn't work too well on the UCF30s from eyeballing my parent's car. I'm worried the chain might damage the reservoir. Most Toyota products use the round rubber snap-on cap, while some use a twist-on cap the Motive may or may not work right with.

 

I had a hard time using the Motive on my 430 because the supplied cap would not stay pressurized. I eventually got it done but it was a lot of work.

 

I bought this from Amazon and it works flawlessly, it also fit ALL Toyota vehicles too.

 

I bought a used Motive Bleeder last year and it came with the standard universal cap, which was held in with the chain. It's worked perfectly for me the 2 times I've had to use it. I just use it as an accumulator to hold pressure against the fluid in the reservoir. Not sure why others have had problems with the unit, but it's been great for me. Best 60 bucks I've spent on the brakes...

 

I haven't tried mine yet....you just need this adapter (I thought one out of my toolbox for the airhose would work but no), then the 1/4" ID hose, and connect up to the Motive...