Damaged wheel: how serious? Need repair
#1
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Damaged wheel: how serious? Need repair
so I picked up some 2003 mustang cobra wheels with the intention of putting proxes on and using them for autocross.
If if you are not familiar with the design of these wheels, there is a flat lip around outer the eldge
of the rim.
one of the rims has basically a gouge on this lip. From what I can see, this part is for style and does not contribute to sealing the bead of the tire.
Check out the pictures.
The damaged wheel still has a tire on. For comparison, there are pictures is of a non damaged wheel with no tire
Do you think this this needs to be professionally repaired, or can I maybe heat this up and bend it back into shape a little, and leave it?
If if you are not familiar with the design of these wheels, there is a flat lip around outer the eldge
of the rim.
one of the rims has basically a gouge on this lip. From what I can see, this part is for style and does not contribute to sealing the bead of the tire.
Check out the pictures.
The damaged wheel still has a tire on. For comparison, there are pictures is of a non damaged wheel with no tire
Do you think this this needs to be professionally repaired, or can I maybe heat this up and bend it back into shape a little, and leave it?
#2
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (2)
Opinions will vary but I would not heat it.
If the inner bead still holds true concentric line without variation it appears it will seal and be ok. Well except that cosmetic part.
In that case, I would use brass or something and knock the ears into place and file them smooth so the tire isn't being eaten when it flexes over the jagged edges.
It looks much worse than it is but it may chew up the bead a bit if left as is.
** I am not responsible for any choices you make regarding repairs or use of this information!**
If the inner bead still holds true concentric line without variation it appears it will seal and be ok. Well except that cosmetic part.
In that case, I would use brass or something and knock the ears into place and file them smooth so the tire isn't being eaten when it flexes over the jagged edges.
It looks much worse than it is but it may chew up the bead a bit if left as is.
** I am not responsible for any choices you make regarding repairs or use of this information!**
#3
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Opinions will vary but I would not heat it.
If the inner bead still holds true concentric line without variation it appears it will seal and be ok. Well except that cosmetic part.
In that case, I would use brass or something and knock the ears into place and file them smooth so the tire isn't being eaten when it flexes over the jagged edges.
It looks much worse than it is but it may chew up the bead a bit if left as is.
** I am not responsible for any choices you make regarding repairs or use of this information!**
If the inner bead still holds true concentric line without variation it appears it will seal and be ok. Well except that cosmetic part.
In that case, I would use brass or something and knock the ears into place and file them smooth so the tire isn't being eaten when it flexes over the jagged edges.
It looks much worse than it is but it may chew up the bead a bit if left as is.
** I am not responsible for any choices you make regarding repairs or use of this information!**
Last edited by tenac2215; 01-30-18 at 06:48 AM.
#4
Lead Lap
iTrader: (8)
It needs to be professionally repaired unless you know how to weld that type of metal.
The repair process is heating it up then smashing it back into shape with a hammer. Followed by welding the crack and grinding it down smooth. Most cracks are usually on the inner barrel, so I'm not sure how they would refinish the face.
Heating it up and bending back at the ears leaves the risk of that crack expanding.
The repair process is heating it up then smashing it back into shape with a hammer. Followed by welding the crack and grinding it down smooth. Most cracks are usually on the inner barrel, so I'm not sure how they would refinish the face.
Heating it up and bending back at the ears leaves the risk of that crack expanding.
#5
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
It needs to be professionally repaired unless you know how to weld that type of metal.
The repair process is heating it up then smashing it back into shape with a hammer. Followed by welding the crack and grinding it down smooth. Most cracks are usually on the inner barrel, so I'm not sure how they would refinish the face.
Heating it up and bending back at the ears leaves the risk of that crack expanding.
The repair process is heating it up then smashing it back into shape with a hammer. Followed by welding the crack and grinding it down smooth. Most cracks are usually on the inner barrel, so I'm not sure how they would refinish the face.
Heating it up and bending back at the ears leaves the risk of that crack expanding.
I’m not worried about how it’ll end up looking because I intend to use them only for track days and will paint them myself
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#8
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Bit the bullet and took it to a wheel repair shop today. Like said above I’d rather get it repaired right than worry about it breaking while driving hard. Hopefully it turns out good. Thanks for the input. I’ll put pics of the repair job if anyone’s interested.
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