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YODAONE:
These is all I have now. To make more pictures I need to take out the whole thing again
This is what I wanted to avoid.
In ideal case I buy the neccessary parts and visit an old friend who can change them.
Yamae:
I don't know. The temperute setup displays showing temperature and when I turn the light at night they both have Green backlight.
But the center displays remains without backlight.
In daylight I can read it correctly but evening and night.
Is the backlight provided by some "rice bulb" / SMD LED / Led Or is it provided by the panel itself ?
So do I need to change the whole thing or just 1 led/bulb or something ?
You need to distinguish which is causing the no back light problem first. The back light is a CCFL (Cold-cathode fluorescent lamp) and it is driven by an inverter. You need a high voltage volt meter or an oscilloscope with a high voltage prove to distinguish. Check the voltage at the CCFL and it should be a bit higher than 1KV initially and then goes down some.
What you mean by touch screen center board is not a board for the touch screen but a board for the touch buttons? If so, all the light sources are bulbs soldered directly to the board. Those are not available at any dealers.
YODAONE:
These is all I have now. To make more pictures I need to take out the whole thing again
This is what I wanted to avoid.
In ideal case I buy the neccessary parts and visit an old friend who can change them.
Yamae:
I don't know. The temperute setup displays showing temperature and when I turn the light at night they both have Green backlight.
But the center displays remains without backlight.
In daylight I can read it correctly but evening and night.
Is the backlight provided by some "rice bulb" / SMD LED / Led Or is it provided by the panel itself ?
So do I need to change the whole thing or just 1 led/bulb or something ?
Unsure where exactly your multi-display is experiencing issues.
Can you post higher resolution images of what the idisplay is doing or not doing when operating?
Possibly a combination of CCFL, incandescent, and or LED backlighting (perhaps even Electroluminescent panels)
The center LCD for a clock and a external temperature uses two incandescent bulbs. Those two bulbs are located at the side of LCD panel and are soldered as is shown in the photo below.
I myself have replaced them using white LEDs. According to a friend of mine, the original incandescent bulb's voltage is 8v and the current 60mA. He was not able to obtain original bulbs and used ones sold at Akihabara, Japan. I think you can obtain bulbs 8V/60mA or similar/close ones at some electronic parts shop in US.
[QUOTE=Yamae;10118154]The center LCD for a clock and a external temperature uses two incandescent bulbs. Those two bulbs are located at the side of LCD panel and are soldered as is shown in the photo below.
I myself have replaced them using white LEDs. According to a friend of mine, the original incandescent bulb's voltage is 8v and the current 60mA. He was not able to obtain original bulbs and used ones sold at Akihabara, Japan. I think you can obtain bulbs 8V/60mA or similar/close ones at some electronic parts shop in US.[/QUOTE
These appears to be T1-3/4 incandescent bulbs.
JKL (good quality).offers #2178 which is 8V..
The green Silikrome lamp color filters are excellent quality and can be reused.
While your multi-display is extracted, probably best to replace all incandescent bulbs...
Not sure what is bulb count on your display and whether all are 8V or some are 12V.
Perhaps Yamae knows more...
Would be interesting to learn why 8V was used at all...
The green Silikrome lamp color filters are excellent quality and can be reused.
While your multi-display is extracted, probably best to replace all incandescent bulbs...
Not sure what is bulb count on your display and whether all are 8V or some are 12V.
Perhaps Yamae knows more...
Would be interesting to learn why 8V was used at all... JKL datasheet containing # 2178 bulb
Although YODAONE kindly advised you to use JKL #2178, unfortunately it was not quite OK. JKL #2178 is much bigger and consumes more current. See attached photos below. I just measured a bulb which I removed from the board a couple of years ago and kept in my junk box.
The result of the actual measurement results were as follows. Length: 5.0mm
Diameter: 3.0mm
Voltage and Current: 8.0V 60.9mA
The reason why 8V bulbs are used is because bulbs are not driven by the B+ voltage 12V. Bulbs are driven by the current controlling circuit which can drive maximum 7.25V for each bulbs.
The ID/name of the bulb is called "T3WT8V" according to a friend of mine who bought bulbs for his Celsior.
Last edited by Yamae; 02-20-18 at 04:43 AM.
Reason: To add the ID/name of the bulb
Although YODAONE kindly advised you to use JKL #2178, unfortunately it was not quite OK. JKL #2178 is much bigger and consumes more current. See attached photos below. I just measured a bulb which I removed from the board a couple of years ago and kept in my junk box.
The result of the actual measurement results were as follows. Length: 5.0mm
Diameter: 3.0mm
Voltage and Current: 8.0V 60.9mA
The reason why 8V bulbs are used is because bulbs are not driven by the B+ voltage 12V. Bulbs are driven by the current controlling circuit which can drive maximum 7.25V for each bulbs.
The ID/name of the bulb is called "T3WT8V" according to a friend of mine who bought bulbs for his Celsior.
Helps to have actual parts in hand.....so the 2178 bulb drawing tells us NOT T1-3/4 Then T-1 glass envelope...
Unsure of availability of T3WT8V bulbs, but here are JKL.specifications on # CW85 T-1 8V for your use.
A good find, YODAONE.
This is a good information for those who prefer incandescent bulbs to LEDs to fix the lighting problem. The bulb JKL CW85 is close. It's a bit longer and consumes 10mA less current, but I think we can use it replacing the original one. I'm a guy who prefer LEDs and I wouldn't use incandescent bulbs any more but HUFantom would be the first guy to use and confirm.
A good find, YODAONE.
This is a good information for those who prefer incandescent bulbs to LEDs to fix the lighting problem. The bulb JKL CW85 is close. It's a bit longer and consumes 10mA less current, but I think we can use it replacing the original one. I'm a guy who prefer LEDs and I wouldn't use incandescent bulbs any more but HUFantom would be the first guy to use and confirm.
I will look through the possibilities
I prefer the consistency so I think I would change all the bulbs on all the 3 LCD so at least the remain the same lightning