LoveSCs

iTrader: (2)

Oh yeah, just to let you all know, I WILL get back to updating the first few posts on page 1. Once I get everything done, I will update those posts in sequential order. I want that first page to be a DIY and not be so cluttered with trial and error things so that if anyone comes across the thread that wants to do this, they will have everything in pretty much sequential order and have all the cliffnotes there. I will also have a complete parts list with costs and everything I am hoping to have this done in the next couple weeks. In fact, hopefully Good Friday is a Great Friday and I can get the trans in

SCSkidder

Coming along great! I like what you did with the shifter. I feel like the time saved (for me) would be worth the extra money for one of the shifters out there... not sure if I would fork out 350-400 like serial nine will be asking though.. Still waiting on shipping info from collins.. wtf

LoveSCs

iTrader: (2)

Thanks!

I have thought of the time savings as well. But the thing is, with any shifter you will need to modify the trans. Whether it be removing the linkage, cutting the shift rod, opening up the inspection plate and making some modifications inside, etc. Also, the serial nine and CBF performance shifters sit tall (for my liking anyway) in the trim. CBF's shortest shift rod will put the end of the shifter at about 11" from the inspection plate. When I measure 11" off of the transmission tunnel, it looks really tall to me. Then you have to add on the shift ****, which adds at least another 1/2" to 1"

Brett Fenning has a decent solution, kind of similar to what I'm doing, but he doesn't have reverse lockout. He has increased spring pressure going in to reverse. That's all. So, really no protection there. By doing what I'm doing, you will get a centered shifter, straight shifter (no gooseneck), true reverse lockout, and a shifter height of about 8". All for under $200. And if you don't mind the shifter being off center, then you can use the standard 5spd bezel (if you have it) and knock $70 off of that cost because that's what I paid for the gated shifter bezel.


Dude, you should call Collins and ask him where your stuff is. I have heard of people waiting some time to get their stuff in. Maybe I just got lucky. But I would've thought that you would've gotten the clutch kit, driveshaft, and flywheel already because those are dropshipped from major suppliers.

SCSkidder

I called him today with no answer and then text him. Then I got shipping confirmation about an hour later. He text me telling me they will come in 4 separate shipments. So I'm happy. Lol.

I'm going to do a write up as well. Not as details but I'll show the differences in the twin disc setup and I have a couple special tools to ease the trans tunnel dilemmas.

LoveSCs

iTrader: (2)

Awesome! What kind of special tools will you be using for the tunnel?

SCSkidder

Some hydraulic frame tools do the trick.

Im getting excited finally. I was a little worried this was going to be a long dilemma after psyching myself out by reading some bad reviews online.. lol

Im still up in the air about my shifter options. I ordered an angle kit thats similar to the wisefab kit so now im running low on funds. lol. Might have to breakout the tig welder and just modify the stock shifter setup.

LoveSCs

iTrader: (2)

Oh OK. I don't have any hydraulic framing tools laying around the house lol

yeah, modifying the stock setup is an option, but just make sure that you cut the tunnel large enough, and replace the roll pin in the linkage with a screw and nut so that you can easily remove the shifter if need be

What have you been reading bad reviews about?

SCSkidder

Long waits, poor customer service, shipping damage... Not a whole lot of bad things compared to good though. I've had a great experience with Brett so far, has been nothing but help.

LoveSCs

iTrader: (2)

Oh OK gotcha. I thought you were referring to issues with everything working. Scared me a little lol because I have only seen positive feedback about the swap. And yeah, Brett is pretty good about answering questions. My main concern thus far is that I think it is a horrible design to only allow a sliver of material on the outside of some of the holes that we have to use on the adapter. There is no reason for not leaving another 1/4" at least around some of those holes... You will see what I mean when you get the adapter

SCSkidder

Yeah, I saw that you were commenting about that before.. as easy as that extra 1/8 or 1/4 inch could have been. i really don't see a huge issue with it.. the only force is twisting force... I do see what you mean though and I would also prefer that small amount of excess material.

LoveSCs

iTrader: (2)

Some things done today. I decided to just mount the Wilwood clutch master cylinder right to the firewall, rather than using an adapter plate. I had to open up the hole on the firewall because the Wilwood needs a larger hole to pass through, and had to drill the holes for mounting the Wilwood.

Here is pic of me mounting my cardboard template so that I can center punch the holes for the Wilwood:





Then had to open up the hole on the clutch pedal and drill the holes to mount the Wilwood:





Then had to notch out a piece of the clutch pedal so that the head of bolt can sit flush on the inside. Here is pic before dremeling it out:






Next 2 pics are after cutting out the notch:








Here is pic of the OEM MC and the Wilwood side by side. Both have the clevis ends threaded to the very last thread. They have the same exact throw and adjustability using the clevis fork rod end that I got from Mcmaster Carr part #1583K13







I also cut out the tunnel for the shifter. I cut it larger than required because I want to be able to remove the shifter easily if needed. This way, I can just remove a few bolts and pull it up through rather than having to drop the transmission. I will then get a sheet of metal and weatherstripping and make a cover for the hole and shifter.






I think tomorrow I can now try to get the trans in. I will not have room to put it straight in. I will have to tilt the motor back. So will have to disconnect intercooler piping, upper radiator pipe, and remove motor mount nuts. Then put jack under front of motor and tilt back as far as can go. If that's still not enough, I will just remove the motor mounts all together and drop the motor back down. That should bring the motor down a couple inches and should be enough to let me mount the trans. Once mounted, I will raise the motor back up and put the motor mounts back on

LoveSCs

iTrader: (2)

Tried to get this damn thing mounted today...

Started off with brake cleaner and removing all residue of old grease. Then greased all the grease points with Lubriplate MO-LITH No.2 grease. It is Lithium based grease with molybdenum disulphide, which is what the 350z manual calls out. All moving parts get just a slight coating, non moving points get a more generous amount. Don't want the grease flinging off of the moving parts..









Install the holder spring onto the Collins extended throwout bearing, and install the shift fork to it:







All cleaned up and lubed and ready to go:







Started to remove/disconnect some things so that I can tilt the motor back. Every setup is different. Just look around the whole motor and look for anything that doesn't move with the motor, and see if it doesn't have enough slack to move the amount that you need it to. Here are the things that I had to do: Started with this little bracket thing that is on the back of the head:








Here is the bolt to remove it:







Ground wire and spark plug/coil cover:







Alternator cable was pretty tight, so removed it:






Coolant line to heater core removed. Grab the bottom half of cut bottle to catch any fluid. And put a towel over the clutch/pressure plate to cover it in case any leaking coolant gets missed. Don't want any getting on the clutch..






Dissconnect intercooler pipes from intake and turbo outlet (I just loosened the clamp on the outlet and let it separate itself while tilting the motor):











Disconnect upper radiator pipe:







Then loosen motor mount nuts, and leave on the last couple threads:








Then put a jack under the front of the sump near crank pulley and tilt that sucker back:









Here is a pic of how it looks tilted:







I attempted to mount trans. Not enough room. The freaking bellhousing is just so massive, and the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate assembly sticks so far out, that it eats up all of the wide space on the firewall. So, removed motor mounts, dropped the motor all the way down, and tilted again. You can see how much more drop you get by removing the mounts:









STILL NOT ENOUGH I've come to the conclusion that you have to beat the crap out of the firewall if you want to be able to do this swap with motor sitting in car. BUT, you can not hit the firewall as hard as you would want to with the motor right there. So, you would have to pull the motor to really get on it. My next thing to try is to just pull the motor up and back a couple inches with a cherry picker, and then tilt it. Literally, all I need is another inch of space between the firewall and I would've had it. I've even considered taking a belt sander to some parts of the bellhousing to remove some features on it to slim it down a bit... To be continued when I get my engine lift hooks in because I was missing the front..

2JZ4lyfe

Hopefully you get it in without pulling the engine.

Doing this swap this summer, and I really dont want to remove my engine.

Thanks for outlining the whole process, I appreciate it.

LoveSCs

iTrader: (2)

Hey no problem. I'm kind of wishing that I went with the A340E bellhousing adapter kit that Collins sells. I just wasn't too keen on the pieced together clutch setup. I will get this to work, even if I end up having to pull the motor. I'm already halfway there anyway. All that would be left to do is drain coolant, disconnect fuel lines, remove power steering pump and AC compressor and pull wiring harness through firewall. Wow, actually that sounds like a lot that I don't want to do lol. I am thinking that I should be able to hook up an engine hoist, lift it up, back it up, tilt it, then mount trans. It's just that the bellhousing is so big and you can't get it into the wide part of the firewall because of the clutch/flywheel. It would be much easier if there was an inspection plate cutout that you could put the pressure plate and disk on input shaft, and then tighten it down to flywheel through inspection plate. That would free up some space.

LoveSCs

iTrader: (2)

Decided to just order a new OEM Nissan slave cylinder part number 30620-CD00B and got 4 quarts of OEM Nissan manual transmission fluid part number 999MP-MTF00NP. Best price I could find on the fluid was from courtesy parts. Seen some other places but looked kind of sketchy.