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BOTH Require:
Shifter relocation ($220 shipped from Brett Fenning via Facebook)
Transmission fluid
Slave cylinder
Fork and pivot ball (may as well upgrade pivot to chromoly at this point. CZP sells for $35)
ShaftMasters shows custom steel driveshafts starting under $300, allow $700 for a clutch kit (found a JWT kit for less), plus the differential-to-driveshaft adapter thing... And it seems like you'll be a couple hundred or so cheaper going with the Maverick kit, but will have to do more research to get the driveshaft and everything else ordered individually.
Someone please point out anything I've got wrong if I'm misinformed. Thanks!
BOTH Require:
Shifter relocation ($220 shipped from Brett Fenning via Facebook)
Transmission fluid
Slave cylinder
Fork and pivot ball (may as well upgrade pivot to chromoly at this point. CZP sells for $35)
ShaftMasters shows custom steel driveshafts starting under $300, allow $700 for a clutch kit (found a JWT kit for less), plus the differential-to-driveshaft adapter thing... And it seems like you'll be a couple hundred or so cheaper going with the Maverick kit, but will have to do more research to get the driveshaft and everything else ordered individually.
Someone please point out anything I've got wrong if I'm misinformed. Thanks!
With the Maverick kit, you will also need the trans mount, which I am assuming Collins mount will work with Maverick adapter kit. Also, you might want to verify with Maverick that the OEM throwout bearing will work with his kit. Collins kit requires an extended throwout bearing, which he provides in his kit. So, the trans mount is $175 from Collins, and the extended throwout bearing is $115 from Collins. So, those would need to be added to the Maverick costs as well.
Also, add to the "both require" slave line.
Also, if you have a true CD009, then the clutch fork and pivot ball are cast components and don't really need to be upgraded. The cast pivot ***** are not known for splitting. But, for $35, you might as well for peace of mind. And to be honest, do some research on the Southbend clutch kits. Everyone raves about them. Especially the guys over on the supraforums. Although they are referring to the supra kits, but still. They are known for handling more than rated power, and the pressure plates require less force than the ACT plates, which is better on the leg and the thrust washers/crank. They also offer a silent disc, which virtually eliminates chatter. That is the kit that I bought, the Stage 3 with silent disc. I can't attest to any claims yet as I don't have it installed and running yet. But for sure will once I get everything all set and broken in
I was at least able to get something done this weekend. Pulled the engine wire harness through the firewall. I was dreading it because again, I HATE working under the dash lol. Wasn't bad at all though. Just remove 2 screws on the rubber boot on the firewall, go under the dash and pull back carpet on passenger side, pull back kick panel, and remove the trim piece on underside of glove compartment. Remove the connectors off the ECU, then there are 2 gray connectors, a white connector, and an orange connector that must get removed from behind the kickpanel. Then there is another white connector more towards the underside of the glove compartment.
Then just tape wrap the connectors together in bundles so that it is easier to pull them through the firewall together. Then you have the harness out:
I can't wait to get this engine out... All I have left to do is drain the coolant and oil, remove a handful of vacuum lines, disconnect igniter, noise filter, power steering rack and maybe another one or two connectors, and then remove fuel lines.
Thanks for adding the missing pieces regarding the Maverick kit. If you don't mind, what did that southbend clutch kit cost you? I used to run ACT clutches exclusively in my DSM days and I liked the heavy pressure plate and engagement. None of them were daily drivers though, or I would have looked into other options. I'm building my mkiv for cruises and shows as I can't afford to keep up with the mkiv crowd on the track. That southbend kit sounds great if it's not going to force me into a Ramen diet for a month. =D
Thanks for adding the missing pieces regarding the Maverick kit. If you don't mind, what did that southbend clutch kit cost you? I used to run ACT clutches exclusively in my DSM days and I liked the heavy pressure plate and engagement. None of them were daily drivers though, or I would have looked into other options. I'm building my mkiv for cruises and shows as I can't afford to keep up with the mkiv crowd on the track. That southbend kit sounds great if it's not going to force me into a Ramen diet for a month. =D
Haha, it was actually only $588 from Z Speed Performance. Part # NSK1000-SS-TZ with silent disc (which was a little upcharge). Rated for 575 torque (flywheel). These kits are conservatively rated, so I am thinking that it should be good for 575 wheel torque.
Haha, it was actually only $588 from Z Speed Performance. Part # NSK1000-SS-TZ with silent disc (which was a little upcharge). Rated for 575 torque (flywheel). These kits are conservatively rated, so I am thinking that it should be good for 575 wheel torque.
That's not bad at all! Does the Collins kit use a regular 350z clutch with their flywheel? I'm assuming so if you're southbend is the 350z version, but just making sure as that's a selling point Maverick. If both kits run 350z disks and pressure plates, I'll probably go with Collins.
Without a car lift , I always find it a lot easier pulling out the engine when a transmission related job is done especially in a swap like this.
Hey Gerry! All is well, and trusting with you as well! I feel like this is moving along, but at a snails pace because of stupid work lol. I only have time on weekends and last weekend was a christening for my nephew, and this just past weekend was 30 degrees out, so only bare minimal got done lol.
And yes, I am now in full agreement that this swap requires motor to be pulled. I tried everything I could to prove that it could be done with motor still in car. And there might still be a way, but just too cumbersome. So much easier to just pull the motor out. That firewall has got to be banged in quite a bit in order to get the angling and finangling and the only way to do that is with motor out. So that's what I will do, pull motor, go to town on the firewall, try to smooth it out and paint the bay. Then, should be easier next time around. And if still not easy, then just pull the motor every time. It's not that hard. People hear "pull the motor" and freak out lol. Although, I will admit, it would be nice to just be able to pull it straight in and out lol. But, I guess it will give me the chance to do other things while the motor is out such as band out the dents in the lower oil pan, do the AC delete, and clean up the bay
Originally Posted by VVTiSoup
That's not bad at all! Does the Collins kit use a regular 350z clutch with their flywheel? I'm assuming so if you're southbend is the 350z version, but just making sure as that's a selling point Maverick. If both kits run 350z disks and pressure plates, I'll probably go with Collins.
Thanks again!
Hey man! I made an assumption that the Collins kit can be used with a standard off the shelf 350z kit because of what was shipped to me from ACT. Part numbers on the packing slip were as follows:
Pressure plate: N021X
Disc: 6250306 (6 pad sprung racing disc)
Alignment tool: AT01
When you search these part numbers, they are standard 350z components. So, I made an assumption that any other standard 350z kit should also work. I will not know for sure until I get everything installed, but I don't see why it wouldn't work. And I don't know why he wouldn't be advertising his kit to work with any standard 350z kit. Maybe he gets a kickback from ACT or something lol. Or, since the ACT kit holds 670 flywheel ft lb, he is maybe just advertising it because it is the biggest number lol. The only reason I didn't keep with the ACT is because I am paranoid about crank walk and have heard that they are not the easiest to DD
But, I do also know that NOLAGG is running a JWT setup, which is a standard 350z kit. So, I am 99% positive it will work, and will be shocked if it doesn't.
Nice job doing your research! Coming from DSMs originally, I'm all too familiar with crank walk. =/
Time to pull my motor and get all the little crap done I've been dreading. May as well install the GTE pistons and head gasket while it's out, redo the oil return, reroute wastegate to the downpipe, the list goes on.
Keep up the good work bud! I'll stop hijacking now. =)
Nice job doing your research! Coming from DSMs originally, I'm all too familiar with crank walk. =/
Time to pull my motor and get all the little crap done I've been dreading. May as well install the GTE pistons and head gasket while it's out, redo the oil return, reroute wastegate to the downpipe, the list goes on.
Keep up the good work bud! I'll stop hijacking now. =)
haha, sounds like you have your work cut out for you! Make a build thread and share some pics
And no worries on jacking, wasn't even thinking about it. It has all been good relevant info
Haha, I may make a build thread after all. Been through hell working on a vvti NA-T.
I've been talking to Brett Fenning (the guy making shifter assemblies for cd9 to mkiv/sc) and he said he's managed to squeeze the CD9 into the mkiv chassis a few times with the engine in. Guess I'm gonna see how colorful my vocabulary can get and I'll update you guys if it's successful and share any tips he's got. Not optimistic, just stubborn.
04-10-16, 11:43 AM
especially in a swap like this.
