Also want to add.. yesterday I accidently pulled the dipstick tube out checking the level in the morning at work. I stuck it back in. Seems to have sealed as I see no leaks or anything and it is in there pretty good. Didn't want to leave out any fact that may matter.

 

yeah once you hit that right combination the car should start behaving like a stock car again.
you have to start with the global adjustment being right for boost, then tweak the rest for idle and tip in (response). I think you got the idea let us know how it goes.

Yeah something is definitely wrong, its not the hot start thing. it shouldn't be idling at 650 on a cold start, it should be at like 1000-1100 rpm's with the coolant temps that low. you have a check engine light, I would start by pulling the code unless you want me to guess all day long. jump Te1 and E1 in the diagnostic port and report back. it could be something simple like a blown off intercooler hose or something but really its hard to say from here without knowing what the CEL is.
dipstick isn;t the issue I pull mine out all the time by accident and stick it back in. just don't leave it out or oil will splash out of it on hard turns lol.

 

Lol at the oil splash.. I will pull the code once I get back to it. I will also look and listen of any vacuum or exhaust leaks. I'm not looking to make you guess all day no worries :-P Thanks!

 

no worries its good to ask always, sometimes I can tell from the sound and the video was very helpful as I can at least tell its not a normal sound/idle and something has happened.

ticking usually kinds means the ecu is not seeing something right, or what its seeing isn't matching up with what is happening, the low idle also points to that. if it was a vacuum leak before the throttle body, it would actually raise the idle up above stock, so it makes me think it could be a coupler after the throttle body or some kind of other error condition has occurred.

the JDM map sensor version of the 2jzgte is so good that it will keep the motor running even when wierd stuff happens. I once had no tps signal and was boosting for like a week before I realized something was up, it only had a slight hesitation at times, the ecu sorted out the rest. one time I did blow off an intercooler coupler, and it was still running alright but it was not boosting at full boost, I can;t remember how it was idling exactly. since you haven't driven it you wouldn't know that yet but its safer to pull code and give it a look over. hopefully its not like a map sensor code or anything.

so many things can happen on an na-t car, you could have melted an o2 wires etc.. etc.. or it could even be a mechanical issue like if you overboosted on that last drive and blew the headgasket or have a failed injector etc... lots of things can happen but since its holding a steady 650 rpm, even with ticking, I think its more likely a simple thing vs a mechanical problem.

on the USDM Maf based ecu, you know when you loose an intercooler pipe, the car wont even idle it just shuts off. I have rescued a USDM supra from a parking lot before where it got stranded, wheres when I blew off my intercooler piping I can still drive it home.

 

You are a wise and experienced person, thanks for all the support.

Codes pulled just now:
21 - Main O2S & Heater Signal
31 - Air Flow Meter Signal
47 - Sub TP Sensor

I did check for melted wires on the O2 sensors since that wouldn't shock me with where they are run.

The ticking can be felt near cylinder 1 and 2 (front of the engine) on the fuel rail. I will post a picture of the area in a moment off my phone.

I didn't notice any missing or loose couplers or piping. There didn't appear do be an exhaust leak although the sound of the 4" piping may hide this.

Before shutting the car down after it ran for a few minutes while i listened and looked, AFR on the wideband read 9.8... with some gas it went up to 10.8ish although i didn't rev too hard. It then bogged down before catching itself before nearly dying out.

For what it's worth, I don't think I overboosted as I watch it pretty closely and may have hit full boost 4 or 5 times since owning the car.. normally get going pretty quick or have traffic before then haha. Hopefully not a head gasket issue. I don't see any leaking fluids either, although I still haven't driven it more than a few feet.

I'll post pictures in a moment.

 

2 pictures of where I feel the ticking and the other wideband at idle.

 

Here is another video. You can see the throttle percentage on the SAFC along this rpm and wideband.


I gave it pretty small blimps. At first it bogs, nearly dies a time or two, but then catches itself.
I got my stethoscope today in the mail from Amazon (ordered at 1pm) which is pretty awesome. I confirmed the ticking is heard most pronounced in the fuel rail, but also on the throttle body and intake manifold.

 

yeah this tells most of the story
Codes pulled just now:
21 - Main O2S & Heater Signal
31 - Air Flow Meter Signal
47 - Sub TP Sensor

code 47 is normal all the gte's have traction control and alot of SC's do not, so that is normal.

code 21 is for either the o2 sensor of the heater circuit for the o2 sensor. likely its just the heater tripping the code if you have a 1 wire o2 sensor (stock type), or if you have a 4 wire installed maybe the heater side is not wired (generally have to run some extra wires to ecu) or wired wrong. generally its not a big deal if its just the heater it will still correct the afr's right just wont react super fast on startup. did you notice it working before when it was driving ok? as in would it idle at 14-15 and fluctuate like it was working.

code 31 is the one that is causing your issues, its the code for the map sensor on these ecu's in our cars.
normally that happens when it is disconnected or faulty, or if something has happened to the vacuum line going to it. I see it is on the passenger side by the turbo, bad idea even though there is a turbo blanket, that area gets very hot. I would move it further away to drivers side and put it on the intake side, then the vac line will be shorter also. If you unwrap the harness on the passenger side where it goes by the distributor, you can actually peel back the map (old maf) wires and pop them out on drivers side, something to think about later.

first figure out why its not working, that connector might not be the original map sensor connector, make sure it is still seated and hasn't vibrated loose (like if the locking tab is broken). it could also be that it went bad.

usually when there is a map problem, the ecu will see ambient air pressure which is like 0 psi (not -18 in/hg like it should be at idle), and it will overfuel like that cause its thinking you are almost in boost at idle, so the rpm's drop due to rich condition etc... basically what it is doing right now, I have had it happen before and its happened to several people with bad map sensors now that I think about it, but usually they are bad when they get them haven't had one go bad on the car. as I said check the connector and simple things first, but its a map sensor issue, I would avoid driving the car until its fixed.

 

Yes it used to idle around 14-15. The O2 sensor (~4 inches from turbo) is a 1 wire (Corrected). Then there is another O2 about 6 inches further away that is a 4 wire and I think is for the gauge, but again would need to double check.

Not a problem with it staying parked for a little. I will take a peak tomorrow and order up a MAP sensor if necessary. It does make sense now that you explain it. Is that tick then the injector just working that hard to pour in the fuel? Should I buy another OE sensor or is there a better option?

Just for future use by readers, this is ALLDATA on the Code 31 [THIS ASSUMES THE STOCK MAF AND NOT THE MAP SENSOR YOU USE WITH NA-T!!]:
DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE DETECTING CONDITION
All conditions below are detected.
No Volume Air Flow Meter signal to Engine Control Module for 2 seconds when engine speed is above 300 rpm.
Engine stall.

TROUBLE AREA
Open or short in Volume Air Flow Meter circuit.
Volume Air Flow Meter.
Engine Control Module.

NOTE: If the Engine Control Module records Diagnostic Trouble Code "31", it operates the fail safe function, keeping the ignition timing and fuel injection volume constant and making it possible to drive the vehicle.




Check voltage of terminal KS.
If OK when Diagnostic Trouble Code 31 is displayed, check and replace Engine Control Module.
If not OK proceed to step 2.
Check for open and short in harness and connector between Volume Air Flow Meter and Engine Control Module.
If OK proceed to step 3.
If not OK repair or replace harness or connector.
Check voltage terminal KS of Engine Control Module.
If OK proceed to step 4.
If not OK check and replace Engine Control Module.
Check voltage of Volume Air Flow Meter power source.
If OK replace Volume Air Flow Meter.
If not OK check and replace Engine Control Module.
"
... not saying I am not listening to you, just figured I would help document as well for those that need steps to debug electrical.

 

Also, for codes 47 and 21... I didn't normally get a CEL, any reason it would show codes now, but not show the light normally? Just curious if they are like unready monitors as opposed to CEL in OBDII terms for an OBDI car...

 

the 47 and 21 dont trigger the CEl alone, they are not monitored for emissions but more just a diagnostic type code, but a 31 will trigger a cel and fail emissions. and normally 31 is for maf, but these ecu's also trip a 31 in our cars, not sure why exactly but its happened dozens of times on here so have learnt that. there is a voltage test for the map sensor you see what the output is but first make sure its all connected well and whatnot and the vacuum line is good before you look into getting another used one or new one, they are probabl way expensive new at that point I would just get a map ecu or something that can simulate it. Like I run the gte ecu and a map ecu, so when the map ecu is in I dont run the stock map sensor the map ecu does that output.

Yes the ticking is the fuel injectors, they are being overworked at the moment I would assume, and the wideband confirms that pretty much.

 

Yeah I have the voltage test for the MAP sensor that I will go through. Used I found one for $90 and new is like $200 depending on where you get it. I am hoping I can find a local to test off of if I get to it being the sensor, but we'll see.

Connections this morning all looked good and intact. The vacuum line looks solid. I have some spare line that I can always sway it with just to make sure. I am going to check conductivity of the pins to make sure there isn't an issue in the harness.

 

Yeah do the voltage test but it sounds like the map could have bit the dust although this is the first I am hearing of one working then all of a sudden not working without any wiring changes etc.. it wasn't shorted out it somehow failed from heat or something else like vibration, generally they can be sensitive so I highly suggest relocating it to the intake side and mounting it somewhere if possible via one of the bolt holes just to be safe but I am thinking maybe its not the map sensor that went bad.

another used one you know is working that is not that bad, but 200 I would rather go for a map ecu as I said it can get rid of boost cut and let you set it where you want it, adjust for injectors etc.. its handy to have on this ecu if you have upgrades in mind later just do it now, it will replace the map sensor.

I remember one person had a similar issue and the pin in the ecu connector for the map sensor was loose, you need to hear the pin "click" into place, I would even remove it and reinsert it just to be sure since the mod was done recently if the pin was not "locked in" it could have just loosened up from vibrations after several drives. also ensure that the locking tab is not broken that can cause the same kind of issues and happens more often than you think, one time we chased a problem for days and it turned out the IGF return signal from the ignitor was loose in the ecu connector and without that signal the ecu turns off the motor, securing the pin was the fix and the car was fine after that.

It sounds more likely to me than a good map sensor failing, I really don't know how exactly all these map sensors fail but I know members have bought ones that did not work at all, and replacing it did the trick, so something caused them to go bad.

I may be exaggerating a bit but in terms of this ecu running correctly it depends 95% on the map sensor.
The coolant sensor, air intake and o2 sensor are all just "trimmers" that tweak the output a little bit.

 

So looking at the first page, Pin 62 where the maf/map pin is moved to is where I want to test, correct?

 

yeah b62, its basically engraved into my memory. I might be able to find it blindfolded... nah just playing that would be a neat trick though.
I would try and give it a light pull and see if it backs out, or just takeit out and reseat it.
look for any splices by the ecu on that wire where someone may have had a piggyback previously, if there are one or 2 then make sure the connections are good on them.
that way you can help eliminate some of the electrical connections before buying a new sensor.