When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
hey dude, i can tell you that with my auto jzx100 ecu and manual trans, the ecu thinks it is in neutral all the time, and tries to control idle constantly, so while im driving my idle valve will close because rpms are too high and it will try to stall. now since i also have no speed input to the ecu, then when i go over 3000 rpm once the engine is warmed up the ecu throws a CEL and the idle control stops. So basically what i do is drive it until its warm, let the idle valve get to the right spot, blip the throttle, and it holds idle great, even with my atmospheric blowoff valve. annoying, but until i get a standalone that is what i will need to do..
crap, OK thanks Marko. To hear that you are indeed having issues with it confirms it for me. I might have to get crafty with the gear selector connector like what was done in this thread:
i did not have any of those problems with my jzx100 engine (with auto jzx100 ecu) with manual trans in my previous SC swap. i don't think that's why your car is doing that.
are you sure you don't have a different issue?
Originally Posted by estomax
hey dude, i can tell you that with my auto jzx100 ecu and manual trans, the ecu thinks it is in neutral all the time, and tries to control idle constantly, so while im driving my idle valve will close because rpms are too high and it will try to stall. now since i also have no speed input to the ecu, then when i go over 3000 rpm once the engine is warmed up the ecu throws a CEL and the idle control stops. So basically what i do is drive it until its warm, let the idle valve get to the right spot, blip the throttle, and it holds idle great, even with my atmospheric blowoff valve. annoying, but until i get a standalone that is what i will need to do..
I am thinking that I may also have to do something with the shifter lock / key lock solenoid so that I can remove the key from the ignition. For those that don't know, with automatics, there is a shifter lock function that will not allow you to shift from Park unless brake pedal is depressed. The ECU that controls this also has a key lock function that prevents you from turning the key to the OFF (LOCK) position unless the shifter is in Park. So, I will need to do something with these shift lock control switch signals so that the ECU thinks its in Park so that I can remove the key.
Came across this which gives a good explanation:
Here are signal levels for SC300/400:
Here is wiring diagram for shift lock from 1JZ soarer diagrams:
cartmill did your ecu have a speed input from the trans? and was it wired to be in neutral? i am not throwing any other codes besides the missing speed signal code, and my CEL is off when i start the car every time until i blip it and the ECU realizes that there is no speed signal and stores that code. either way my understanding is that with a manual jzx100 ecu this issue goes away, so i've been keeping my eyes open for one. Also you may have had your throttle cracked open enough that the idle valve was effectively bypassed, were you idling around 625-650 rpm or wherever the motor temp / ambient temp dictated it to? that is another solution but i like my low idle
also i dont remember messing with the shift lock and shifter lock with my wiring at all.. so i am not sure you need to do that. maybe the 92 didnt have it?
Awesome, that will be great if I don't have to bother with anything on the shift lock / key lock. I will just have it in the back of my mind in case I run into issues
Got some more done today after work. Painted the bay where the wire loom was before relocation on the passenger side. Painted the clutch hard line and the AC delete bracket. Cut and soldered the neutral safety switch wires together and cut into and extended the reverse wires to the new reverse connector with pigtails that I got from Wiring Specialties. Also mounted the trans to the adapter:
This is the shift lever position switch connector that fastens on the passenger side of the auto trans. The neutral safety switch wires are the black and black/white wires on the top/middle of the connector (that yellow part of the connector). The reverse wires are the black/red and yellow wires:
NSS wires snipped:
Soldered and heat shrunk:
The red/black and yellow wires for reverse:
Trans mounted to adapter/block:
Tomorrow, just have to mount the master cylinder and hard line before putting the driveline back in. Then it's going in!!
Motor is back in! Hoping to have it all buttoned up to start it tomorrow or mid week
Here is a pic of the hardware on the clutch pedal assembly in order to mount the Wilwood master cylinder:
This was the hardware used:
Mounting pedal assembly to Firewall (the hardware that is kiddie corner to eachother and going through the black extruded standoffs on the pedal assembly):
-M8x40mm bolt, 2 flat washers, 2 nuts, 1 lockwasher
-M8x55mm bolt, 1 flat washer, 1 lockwasher, 2 nuts (this was the bottom. Probably could've just used the same bolt as the top though)
Here is the MC mounted. What a pain. Tight spot, but looks good in there
Going in for the approach:
Finally back on the mounts. Took a little bit. I ended up having to remove my crash bar because my arm on the hoist wasn't long enough. Then, ended up having to lay the motor down once it was in a pretty decent spot to remove the load leveler and just go straight to the hoist because the back chain was hitting the little lip at the top of the firewall. Once I did that, the back chain was at an angle and the motor basically fell right in. Also, my load leveler wanted to tilt the engine a little bit clockwise, and once I removed it, the motor was straight
Got the trans crossmember up, diff adapter and driveshaft installed:
First had to torque down the engine mount nuts. TSRM says 43 ft-lb
With trans still supported by jack, mount the crossmember. First mount the insulator: I torqued to 40ftlbs:
Then put the crossmember up and tighten less than hand tight:
Tighten the crossmember to the insulator, then go back and torque down the crossmember mounting bolts TSRM says to mount trans crossmember to body at 19ft lbs:
Here is a pic of where the fill hole plug is. I was worried with how tight and beefy the trans was, that it would be difficult to add the trans oil, but is easy enough to get to with a quart bottle pump:
Diff adapter mounted. TSRM says to mount propeller (driveshaft lol, but they call it the propeller) to diff at 58 ft-lbs. This diff adapter seems to be a very good design. There was basically no tolerance when slipping it onto the diff carrier. Fit perfect
Driveshaft slip yolk went right into the output shaft of the trans perfectly and here is driveshaft mounted to diff adapter. The bolt heads were a tight fit against the u joint linkage, but still able to get them on. You can not get a socket in there, so I just doubled up on wrenches to get some leverage on the bolts
Driveshaft installed:
New OEM slave cylinder and braided clutch line to hard to line:
And this is how much more room I have on the firewall for in case I ever have to take this trans out again. I don't think I will have enough room to be able to come up straight and in because of how far out that flywheel/clutch sticks out, but I should have no problem tilting the motor back and servicing it.
Here is reference pick before beating the firewall. Kind of hard to tell because I still had the fiberglass insulation on, but there is much more room now:
Then, connected up power steering pump and installed the drive belt for AC delete. PS pump gets torqued to 43 ft-lbs. The belt is a Continental 6K1885. Looks and feels just like the stock one, and seems to have the same tension as stock.
I also ran the harness back through the firewall and plugged in all of the connectors under the dash. Connected coolant lines and fuel lines, brake booster vac line, engine ground behind head, and throttle cable. Next just have to finish up the other connections - vac lines, PS rack connector, Igniter connections, alternator connections, starter connections, etc. Have to install crash bar back on, install bumper and headlights. Then change all fluids. Then I should be good to start it up and check clutch pedal feel. After some adjustment, should be good to go
Thanks bro!! Yeah, this weekend should be able to button everything back up and then try and avoid tickets as I drive it to get it inspected. I have a yellow sticker from last year on it, they are red now lol. Sticks out like a sore thumb lol
Also, just ordered an inspection plate cover from driftmotion because mine was missing:
And, does anybody know why this slot is cut into the bellhousing on the cd009, and if there is some kind of cover or grommet to insert into it to prevent debris from getting in?:
05-02-16, 07:22 AM
