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Is anyone running a rear camber kit (blocks) for your SC430?
My camber is not so good running a staggered setup.
thereftherefore I'm planning on getting the SPC rear camber kit (blocks) and an alignment to help with the rear camber.
fyi...i already replaced my right/left upper control arm with adjustable ones for the fronts.
Just ordered the SPC camber kit for the rears.
getting them installed tomorrow and an alignment afterwards.
do me a favor and post a pic of the alignment sheet when you are finished. I would like to compare mine to yours.
also, are you going to ask them to put the rear camber near 0 to reduce inside tire wear?
thank you in advance!
so i tried to delete my thread and continue with this existing thread but the website won't
allow me to delete it.
this earlier thread was regarding the rear camber kits from SPC and RCA.
Also, the 2nd Gen GS3/4 has the same strut/suspension numbers for the SC430.
therefore, the SPC camber kit will shows the same compatibility with the GS model as well.
Interesting about the RCA can do up to 3 but the SPC is only limited to 1 (see thread link above).
sage rca cambit kit installed but now the toe is way off.
therefore, the only way to correct the toe is to get the toe link arms (rear) from figs.
this is the only company that makes the toe link arms for the SC430.
i'm copying a previous thread discussing this toe topic:
the 2nd gen GS and the SC430 share suspension components rear arms, toe links etc.. figs engineering has arms, toe links and track links to dial in your rear.
The VIP LCA arm that figs offers acts like an RCA as well to get that little bit more of a drop.
Also depending on how much camber you are planning to run you might not need the trac links, Anything over -3 degrees or so of camber might need the trac links to get wheel centering dialed right.
ok folks. here are the numbers with and without camber setup.
STAGE 1 --> no camber kit setup
oem shocks with TEIN S TECH springs
18x8 all around TRD rims (with spacers)
SPC upper adjustable control arm (fronts only)
STAGE 2 ---> with camber kit setup
Megan EZ II Coilovers
19x8.5 +35
19x9.5 +35
Sage RCA Camber Kit (same as 98-05 2nd GEN GS300/430)
FIGS toe links (rears only)
SPC upper adjustable control arm (fronts only)
STAGE 2 upgrades now feels like a brand new car.
feels more stable, no vibration, no shimmy.
feels more grounded and new suspension is as close to OEM,
if not better. handling improved.
I hope you don't mind me jumping into your thread with my issues, if you do I will delete this post, just let me know...
Cole and anyone else who knows alignments, I need your help.
i have had my 2002 SC430 for about two years now and have driven it about 20k miles. It now has about 82k miles.
the front end has been rebuilt with aftermarket poly bushings except for the rack. They are still original. I also installed SPC upper control arms that allow the adjustment of caster and camber.
below are the specs from the last alignment, Aug 2015.
the car still does the following and has always done this...
the wheel will never return to center at lower speeds, it returns some but not all the way.
it wanders at higher speeds or sometimes follows the road.
It is harder to turn at lower speeds.
i know some of this is due to the wide tires.
below, first alignment
Below, second alignment after front end rebuild
Bgw , I would put the rear toe at about +.08 bilaterally. Leaving everything else the same. Then like we said I think those new dampers will help make the car feel more solidly planted again.
What kind of SETUP are u running?
During my My 1st stage setup,
My car would always pull to the right at lower speeds.
but after the new suspension and rear camber kit and toe links, it's much more stable.
I plan on getting spc camber bolts for the fronts.
Also, if the car has been hit on the front,
Then something else could cause the pulling.
I didn't know after your coilovers you ended up with that much camber. Obviously way to much. My thought would still be to keep some camber. I'm looking at no can bear going yo create more push. I personally would keep a half a degree of negative camber. But each person has different tastes on how they want the car to feel. I don't think you would really get excessive tire wear at that setting.
wow I didn't proof read that after auto correct had fun with it!
Supposed to say I'm looking at no camber is going to create more push.
I didn't know after your coilovers you ended up with that much camber. Obviously way to much. My thought would still be yo keep some camber. I'm looking at no can bear going yo create more push. I personally would keep a half a degree of negative camber. But each person has different tastes on how they want the car to feel. I don't think you would really get excessive tire wear at that setting.
Once the camber kit is installed I will ask him to set it no more than negative one degree. My goal is minimal tire wear because the car is driven mostly by my wife and when I drive it fast it is usually on an interstate. No hills or curved roads in Florida.
Once the camber kit is installed I will ask him to set it no more than negative one degree. My goal is minimal tire wear because the car is driven mostly by my wife and when I drive it fast it is usually on an interstate. No hills or curved roads in Florida.
yeah your all good keeping it at around that minimum .7 like I said could even go .5. I don't remember if you had told me if you had changed rear bushes when you did the fronts. If not would be worth looking at them to make sure they are not worn out, and causing extra toe out under load. That would cause inside edge wear too.