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I don't know if the SC is the same but in my sold LS400, the leaking power steering fluid will destroy the alternator since the dripping fluid is right on top of the alternator.
I don't know if the SC is the same but in my sold LS400, the leaking power steering fluid will destroy the alternator since the dripping fluid is right on top of the alternator.
...I'll second that, had the same issue in my old Ls400.....so definitely check to see if the power steering unit is leaking onto the alternator
In this photo, you can see what looks like two vacuum lines going to the back of the power steering pump. Check them for cracks and also make sure the valve is not leaking.
BTW, that is a good price for the valve...I saw it on Rockauto for $62.
...I'll second that, had the same issue in my old Ls400.....so definitely check to see if the power steering unit is leaking onto the alternator
Thanks guys. It is. In fact I think that is why that bolt holding the wiring harness worked it way loose; It got lubricated by the fluid and worked it's way out.
After I get the valve in, I will make sure to go over the area with a degreaser. I appreciate the heads up.
So I got the valve changed. Just like Bon said, 10 minutes & a 17 mm wrench from the bottom. It turns out that when you unscrew the valve, it shoots PS Fluid out right on the alternator. So 10 minutes, plus another 20 more cleaning up the PS fluid.
It also turns out that when you jack up the front end and turn the steering wheel end to end to purge the air, you REALLY need to put the PS cap on, or the fluid shoots out the top. That was another 10 minutes of cleaning up power steering fluid.
So all in all, not that bad and far better than replacing the Starter like I (and the 3 other people I had look at the car) had initially thought.
THANK YOU EVERYBODY WHO HELPED ME WITH THEIR ADVISE!
So I got the valve changed. Just like Bon said, 10 minutes & a 17 mm wrench from the bottom. It turns out that when you unscrew the valve, it shoots PS Fluid out right on the alternator. So 10 minutes, plus another 20 more cleaning up the PS fluid.
It also turns out that when you jack up the front end and turn the steering wheel end to end to purge the air, you REALLY need to put the PS cap on, or the fluid shoots out the top. That was another 10 minutes of cleaning up power steering fluid.
So all in all, not that bad and far better than replacing the Starter like I (and the 3 other people I had look at the car) had initially thought.
THANK YOU EVERYBODY WHO HELPED ME WITH THEIR ADVISE!
just to be clear, you had a PS leak but the power steering worked just fine, is that correct?
did the new valve change the way the steering feels, is it the same, easier or harder to turn?
Yeah, I had a power steering leak, which leaked on a wiring bracket attached to my alternator.
The leak loosened up the bolt that held the bracket tight.
When I started my car the bracket would vibrate when the starter turned over, making a metal on metal clanging noise. The noise stopped shortly after the car started.
I had three of my friends, who do their own car repairs, look at the car and hear the rattle but not an inspection of the car. They unanimously thought it was the Bendix, though one had doubts. Bon encouraged me to look deeper and BGW said starters fail, but only rarely. Also when I tried to record the sound for the Discussion Board, I would leave my phone on the engine block and the sound was actually diminished.
I crawled under the car and took off the underside shielding to be closer to the starter and found the fluid and the loose bracket.
I bought a new bolt for the bracket and traced the high point of the leak to the valve.
I replaced the valve, but do not notice any difference in steering.
Yeah, I had a power steering leak, which leaked on a wiring bracket attached to my alternator.
The leak loosened up the bolt that held the bracket tight.
When I started my car the bracket would vibrate when the starter turned over, making a metal on metal clanging noise. The noise stopped shortly after the car started.
I had three of my friends, who do their own car repairs, look at the car and hear the rattle but not an inspection of the car. They unanimously thought it was the Bendix, though one had doubts. Bon encouraged me to look deeper and BGW said starters fail, but only rarely. Also when I tried to record the sound for the Discussion Board, I would leave my phone on the engine block and the sound was actually diminished.
I crawled under the car and took off the underside shielding to be closer to the starter and found the fluid and the loose bracket.
I bought a new bolt for the bracket and traced the high point of the leak to the valve.
I replaced the valve, but do not notice any difference in steering.
so glad you located the issue and solved all of your problems. Could you imagine the terrible feeling you would have had if you replaced the starter only to find the problem still existed!
BTW, great description of the sequence of events you took to locate the problem! It should certainly help someone in the future...maybe one of us!
I had the same problem with my 06 LS430 (leaking PS reservoir, grinding noise). After replacing the reservoir and upon further inspection, the alternator bracket bolt broke off. I had to slowly remove the remaining bolt screw before replacing it. Afterwards, the grinding noise continued but diminished within a week. I suspect the PS fluid on the alternator diminished. Should I still replace the alternator?
That valve is also noted for leaking internally sending tranny fluid into the intake. I also own the LS400 and recently had to change that valve. It has a small teflon and rubber O Ring inside that crack and wear out. So, if you have an unexplained power steering fluid leak but cant find a leak, check those two hoses and make sure their not wet inside. Just something to tuck away in the back of your mind. Just in case.
I had the same problem with my 06 LS430 (leaking PS reservoir, grinding noise). After replacing the reservoir and upon further inspection, the alternator bracket bolt broke off. I had to slowly remove the remaining bolt screw before replacing it. Afterwards, the grinding noise continued but diminished within a week. I suspect the PS fluid on the alternator diminished. Should I still replace the alternator?
I would wait until you start seeing signs the alternator is starting to fail. However, by doing so, you risk getting stuck on the side of the road. It's a tough call. Alternators don't last forever, so you can replace it now, or replace it later. Either way, you are going to have to replace it sometime. The question is how much more time can you get out of it?
11-22-16, 10:20 AM
