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Thanks for that Answer.
I have to get a low profile mini fuse remover to remove the fuse, and then plug in a low profile mini fuse tap/piggy backs to the constant and switched power fuses to hardwire my dash cam.
Is it possible to use some of the empty sockets, then purchase two separate 5 Amp fuse, and wrap the yellow & red wires to the positive fuse end, and then plug those two fuses in - then we can close with the fuse cover?
Just depends if those empty sockets have constant or switched current.
From what I remember, there was not empty sockets that were satisfying the power needs, so those add-a-fuse are a must. And since they are bigger, the cover won't fit. Anyways, I just threw mine in the glove box!
Did you use the bolt in the second photo to ground/earth the negative black wire to your chassis, to return the current to the black negative terminal of the battery?
Well, it looks like you have tapped into:
1) The Hazard Warning Flasher blue fuse @ 15A for your constant 12V power supply, and
2) The Ignition No 1 red fuse @ 10A for your accessories Acc ignition switched 12V power supply.
The two new fuses for your dash cam are 3 Amps each.
You have returned the current via the black wire, by earthing/grounding it to your hexagonal metal chassis screw at the bottom of the photo, as I originally suspected.
You have the exact same empty single and dual channel slots as me.