When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I tried it hoping to get more lively acceleration but failed, so don't bother with it anymore, plus the shifter feedback is so rubbery it's sad. I understand they tuned it this way for more comfort and better fuel economy, but they should at least add a 'sport' mode for people want better driving feel, am I asking too much on a minivan? XD
Wanted to update this thread since its been a little bit over a year. The Sedona will turn 2 in April, right now sitting at about 17,500 miles, which is unusually low for us. I think its a combination of my wife not working since the kids were born, and thus not commuting, and me not driving it on weekends for fun like I always did the Jeep, since I enjoyed driving it. Not that I dislike driving the Sedona, its just not a vehicle I would choose to drive for obvious reasons.
So far the Sedona has held up really, really well. I am very satisfied with it as a vehicle. Just spent the day cleaning it up (it gets washed once a month or once every 6 weeks if its lucky) and it was a show, inside was full of crushed up crackers, muddy footprints all over the sills and the rear seats (they're rear facing so their shoes dirty up the seatbacks) the drivers footwell was all muddy, console was all dirty and dusty. The paint is really good quality, no stains or swirls (light from the carwash but nothing major), chrome wheels still look great, no pitting. All the gloss black trim still looks great, no fading from being parked outside. No rock chips on the front. No pitting in the glass. No buzzes or rattles of any kind.
We've taken some pretty long trips, its been to WV a couple of times and ran great in the mountains. Been to Albany, NY twice for new years which is a 400 mile drive one way, seats were long haul comfortable. Kids ride in it happily and watch their movies.
3 Issues:
1. Rear parking sensors are kaput. Dealer has parts they ordered just haven't had a chance to get by and have it done.
2. Front brakes are glazed very badly, need to be resurfaced. Happened very early, dealer was a PITA about it insisting they were normal.
3. It did have a dead battery about a month ago and left my wife stranded, luckily she was at home and headed out. Kia roadside came and jumped it, battery passes the load tests and no issues since. Worries me a little, there wasn't anything left on.
Lease is up in April of 2018...honestly I would consider buying it out and keeping it. Buyout is $22k...we'll see what the resale values are.
100% satisfied so far with my first Hyundai/Kia product.
I took a couple of pictures just to show condition. Has never been waxed, sealed or polished. Goes through an automatic carwash and gets sprayed down with a spray sealant/quick detailer
Hood edge, no chipping:
Note the napa leather is still in great shape, matte (the seat leather on the LS is notably glossier):
Fuel economy isn't great:
The kid's setup, going forward facing next week (they turn 2). One issue is its impossible to access the third row with their seats installed:
The Sedona will turn 2 in April, right now sitting at about 17,500 miles, which is unusually low for us. I think its a combination of my wife not working since the kids were born, and thus not commuting, and me not driving it on weekends for fun like
10-12K miles a year is about average for drivers nationwide. Sounds like you are doing 8-9K a year on it, which is not that far down.
I always did the Jeep, since I enjoyed driving it.
Not that I dislike driving the Sedona, its just not a vehicle I would choose to drive for obvious reasons.
Personally, given the choice, I agree.....I'd rather drive a JGC too, but I wouldn't let image bother me if I wanted to take the minivan out...or need to for any reason.
So far the Sedona has held up really, really well. I am very satisfied with it as a vehicle. Just spent the day cleaning it up (it gets washed once a month or once every 6 weeks if its lucky) and it was a show, inside was full of crushed up crackers, muddy footprints all over the sills and the rear seats (they're rear facing so their shoes dirty up the seatbacks) the drivers footwell was all muddy, console was all dirty and dusty. The paint is really good quality, no stains or swirls (light from the carwash but nothing major), chrome wheels still look great, no pitting. All the gloss black trim still looks great, no fading from being parked outside. No rock chips on the front. No pitting in the glass. No buzzes or rattles of any kind.
I keep trying to tell people that Hyundai and Kia don't make junk anymore (those days went out almost 15 years ago)...but, sometimes, all I get are blank stares or looks of disbelief.
We've taken some pretty long trips, its been to WV a couple of times and ran great in the mountains.
So the Sedona's 6-speed transmission is flexible enough in the Appalachians for good ascent-power and compressional-braking for descent in the Appalachians? This hill has always been one of the supreme tests of compressional-braking in the Eastern U.S. (indeed, it was once used by automakers to test their new vehicles on)...the famous Summit Hill at Uniontown, PA, on U.S. 40. It is three and a half continuous miles of a 10% downgrade from the top of Chestnut Ridge to the valley floor (6% is max for most Interstates). You probably know where it is....just a few miles NE of Morgantown, WV. It scared the s*** out of me the first time I drove it alone as a teen-ager, right out of high school (my knuckles turned white gripping the wheel) ..that's where I learned the art of downshifting for long descents.
1. Rear parking sensors are kaput.
The little round circles on the bumper? That might (?) have happened from neighborhood kids running into them with bike-tires, but that wouldn't necessarily account for all of them failing.
2. Front brakes are glazed very badly, need to be resurfaced. Happened very early, dealer was a PITA about it insisting they were normal.
You and I discussed that before, but I don't remember if it was the result of under-use or over-use of the brakes, creating too much heat. Glaze can develop from both possibilities.
3. It did have a dead battery about a month ago and left my wife stranded, luckily she was at home and headed out. Kia roadside came and jumped it, battery passes the load tests and no issues since. Worries me a little, there wasn't anything left on.
How long had your wife let it sit? All modern vehicles have a slight amount of parasitic current-drain on the battery from just sitting at rest, because the computer, clock, memory-systems, etc....have to be kept powered up even if the vehicle is shut off. If the vehicle is not started and ran once every week to two weeks on the average (sometimes you can get away with a little longer), you take a chance on the battery getting too low to crank the engine.
Lease is up in April of 2018...honestly I would consider buying it out and keeping it. Buyout is $22k...we'll see what the resale values are.
As I recall, you have a top-level SXL, right? New SXLs start at almost 42K....so, at only 22K for a 2-year-old model, that's a pretty significant depreciation rate. If you did buy it out, that looks to me like a good deal....plus, of course, you will know the vehicle's prior history, and you will still have 8 years left on the drivetrain warranty (assuming you don't go over 100K miles first), because the vehicle is remaining in your family. In Hyundai/Kia-speak, the 10/100 part of the drivetrain warranty cannot be transferred to a second owner outside of the immediate family (Mom, Dad, sister, brother)...only the 5/60 part.
Personally, given the choice, I agree.....I'd rather drive a JGC too, but I wouldn't let image bother me if I wanted to take the minivan out...or need to for any reason.
Its just not a vehicle I would choose to drive out of any desire, its a family transportation appliance, which is a job it fills very well.
So the Sedona's 6-speed transmission is flexible enough in the Appalachians for good ascent-power and compressional-braking for descent in the Appalachians? This hill has always been one of the supreme tests of compressional-braking in the Eastern U.S. (indeed, it was once used by automakers to test their new vehicles on)...the famous Summit Hill at Uniontown, PA, on U.S. 40. It is three and a half continuous miles of a 10% downgrade from the top of Chestnut Ridge to the valley floor (6% is max for most Interstates). You probably know where it is....just a few miles NE of Morgantown, WV. It scared the s*** out of me the first time I drove it alone as a teen-ager, right out of high school (my knuckles turned white gripping the wheel) ..that's where I learned the art of downshifting for long descents.
Oh yeah, it does fine in the mountains. Its lazy to downshift when passing or around town, but it will kick down to climb a grade just fine.
I know that grade well. Thats up in northern WV, where my family is from and where we travel to is down in southern WV so I don't routinely come through there. The mountains we travel in on that trip are along I-64 between Lexington, VA and Beckley, WV.
The little round circles on the bumper? That might (?) have happened from neighborhood kids running into them with bike-tires, but that wouldn't necessarily account for all of them failing.
Its a computer issue, there was a module they ordered, I just haven't been able to bring it back in.
You and I discussed that before, but I don't remember if it was the result of under-use or over-use of the brakes, creating too much heat. Glaze can develop from both possibilities.
Its the same issue I always seem to have with brakes on asian vehicles. Just replaced the front brakes on the LS, they were warped. I'll have them resurfaced on the van, if we keep it I'll put better rotors and pads on it like I did the LS.
How long had your wife let it sit? All modern vehicles have a slight amount of parasitic current-drain on the battery from just sitting at rest, because the computer, clock, memory-systems, etc....have to be kept powered up even if the vehicle is shut off. If the vehicle is not started and ran once every week to two weeks on the average (sometimes you can get away with a little longer), you take a chance on the battery getting too low to crank the engine.
It had only been a couple days.
As I recall, you have a top-level SXL, right? New SXLs start at almost 42K....so, at only 22K for a 2-year-old model, that's a pretty significant depreciation rate. If you did buy it out, that looks to me like a good deal....plus, of course, you will know the vehicle's prior history, and you will still have 8 years left on the drivetrain warranty (assuming you don't go over 100K miles first), because the vehicle is remaining in your family. In Hyundai/Kia-speak, the 10/100 part of the drivetrain warranty cannot be transferred to a second owner outside of the immediate family (Mom, Dad, sister, brother)...only the 5/60 part.
The $22k buyout would be after 3 years. I did a quick KBB trade in analysis and got $28k for right now.
I just did a lease buy out of my Sedona SXL 8 seater with tech package. The best way is to do it right at the beginning of the lease so you don't pay any interest. They money factor on the 2016 SXL was atrocious. Van ended up at around $32.5K + TTL or a bit over $10K off MSRP. We've driven quite a bit in the 2.5 months that we've own it and have close to 5K miles already. Love the van and hopefully it ends up being reliable.
Oh yeah, it does fine in the mountains. Its lazy to downshift when passing or around town, but it will kick down to climb a grade just fine.
I know that grade well. Thats up in northern WV, where my family is from and where we travel to is down in southern WV so I don't routinely come through there. The mountains we travel in on that trip are along I-64 between Lexington, VA and Beckley, WV.
I-64, of course, has Interstate-standard grades, which are (usually) less than 6%, to benefit large heavy trucks.
The grade I was talking about is a real SOB...but it's actually north of the state's border, in PA, not in northern WV. There is a long 4-mile grade down Cooper's Rock on I-68 into Morgantown, WV, not far from Uniontown, but that grade is much less steep.....basically to Interstate standards.
WV gets a lot of jokes about missing teeth, vehicles up on blocks, and backward living conditions, but as far as I'm concerned, it's a beautiful state with a lot of nice people. And tremendous progress has been made in the environment there. Even the old grimy industrial and strip-mining areas up in the Northern Panhandle near Wheeling and Pittsburgh are nothing like they used to be.
I don't want to get too far off-topic, though.....so I'll get back to the Sedona.
Its a computer issue, there was a module they ordered, I just haven't been able to bring it back in.
Interesting. I didn't know that the bumper-sensor system was computer-monitored, though, of course, the sophisticated camera back-ups are.
Its the same issue I always seem to have with brakes on asian vehicles. Just replaced the front brakes on the LS, they were warped. I'll have them resurfaced on the van, if we keep it I'll put better rotors and pads on it like I did the LS.
The driving conditions in this area are also conducive to a lot of brake-use, which doesn't help matters any.
Not all Asian vehicles, though, seem to have a warp-problem. My Outback, like your LS and Sedona, needed new pads around 30K, but the rotors were still smooth. Brakes and rotors on the Verano were still almost like new at 30K.....but the Verano's chassis, of course, is Opel (German) sourced.
It had only been a couple days.
Well, then, assuming no (hidden) lights were left on inside a compartment, and you don't have a short in the system somewhere (or a dying alternator), I'm not sure what to suggest.....maybe there is something in the system draining more than the standard parasitic amount of current. A technician would have to try and isolate that with an ammeter. Anyhow, good luck on that issue....hope they find it.
The $22k buyout would be after 3 years. I did a quick KBB trade in analysis and got $28k for right now.
Weren't the terms (and the projected amount) of the buyout in the lease-contract? Unless they have recently changed the way they write the contracts, usually that is what they base the monthly payments on....the projected residual value. The dealership, of course, can either make more than anticipated, or lose money, depending on what the actual residual value is compared to what they projected it as.
That is what got Nissan into trouble some years ago. They did attractive lease rates, and then lost money when the vehicles had depreciated more than projected.
I just did a lease buy out of my Sedona SXL 8 seater with tech package. The best way is to do it right at the beginning of the lease so you don't pay any interest. They money factor on the 2016 SXL was atrocious. Van ended up at around $32.5K + TTL or a bit over $10K off MSRP. We've driven quite a bit in the 2.5 months that we've own it and have close to 5K miles already. Love the van and hopefully it ends up being reliable.
Interesting, the MF on my 2015 Sedona is incredible, the lowest I have ever seen, .000001, so basically almost interest free. I paid about $5k more than you though, so its probably a wash (they swapped rebates for MF between 2015 and 2016 clearly.
Its a great van, you'll like it.
Originally Posted by mmarshall
I-64, of course, has Interstate-standard grades, which are (usually) less than 6%, to benefit large heavy trucks.
The grade I was talking about is a real SOB...but it's actually north of the state's border, in PA, not in northern WV. There is a long 4-mile grade down Cooper's Rock on I-68 into Morgantown, WV, not far from Uniontown, but that grade is much less steep.....basically to Interstate standards.
Its actually 7% on interstate grades. I do know that hill you're talking about, also the one down Coopers Rock. The big hill going to where I'm from is Sandstone Mountain which is about a 6 mile long 7% grade, two runaway truck ramps coming down. Before the highway was completed there you used to have to take Rt 60 through Rupert and Rainelle which has a pretty serious mountain area on a double yellow lined road. Haven't taken the Sedona that way (it makes my wife carsick going that way)
WV gets a lot of jokes about missing teeth, vehicles up on blocks, and backward living conditions, but as far as I'm concerned, it's a beautiful state with a lot of nice people. And tremendous progress has been made in the environment there. Even the old grimy industrial and strip-mining areas up in the Northern Panhandle near Wheeling and Pittsburgh are nothing like they used to be.
Its a beautiful state with a lot of nice people...but its also got a lot of missing teeth, cars up on blocks, people living in shacks lol.
This is the New River Gorge Bridge which is right next to my hometown, my grandfather watched them put every bolt in this bridge.
Interesting. I didn't know that the bumper-sensor system was computer-monitored, though, of course, the sophisticated camera back-ups are.
Keep in mind it has a physical distance representation on the screen also.
Well, then, assuming no (hidden) lights were left on inside a compartment, and you don't have a short in the system somewhere (or a dying alternator), I'm not sure what to suggest.....maybe there issomething in the system draining more than the standard parasitic amount of current. A technician would have to try and isolate that with an ammeter. Anyhow, good luck on that issue....hope they find it.
We'll see if it happens again.
Weren't the terms (and the projected amount) of the buyout in the lease-contract? Unless they have recently changed the way they write the contracts, usually that is what they base the monthly payments on....the projected residual value. The dealership, of course, can either make more than anticipated, or lose money, depending on what the actual residual value is compared to what they projected it as.
That is what got Nissan into trouble some years ago. They did attractive lease rates, and then lost money when the vehicles had depreciated more than projected.
Yeah the residual buyout is in the lease contract, its $22,XXX. The monthly payments are based on the difference between the negotiated purchase price, the residual, and the finance charge. The dealership doesn't make anything off of a lease returned car, the finance arm takes the car back and then sells it to a dealership (which may not be the one who takes it in) for a certain cost, so they're the ones who absorb any profit or loss from the residual's relation to actual market value. If the value is more than the residual at the end, you can always trade the car in or sell it instead of turning it in, and the residual just becomes the payoff.
All the cars I've leased, I've never turned one in, I've always traded them in.
Cars manufacturers loose money on inflated residuals all the time, BMW is famous for doing this. Part of the cost of doing business for them. Cheap lease deals sell cars upfront at profit, they loose some of that profit on the back end.
12-23-15, 03:18 PM
Glaze can develop from both possibilities.
