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It didn't throw the code at first but eventually it did & that's how I've figured it out it was due to Solenoid E. The delay wasn't that bad & I've noticed it was only from 1st into 2nd when the car started rolling from a dead stop. By the time the car rolled about 100 yards then the tranny shifted normally. Since then, I've put in 2K miles & car is shifting fine even right after a cold start.
In regards to the clunking when car is put in gears at cold start, it still does it every now & then but not all the time. If I let the car warms up for a few minutes & let the idle drop to normal then it's doesn't clunk that's why I think it's due to either high idle or the relatively new solenoid still need time to break-in.
I got the lower half of the valve body cleaned and reassembled. I do not do this by memory or solely by some sort of system. I do keep the parts organized as they come out in order but I reassemble following the factory shop manual to ensure that I have the springs in the right spot, plungers in the right direction, and so on. I'll tackle the upper half tomorrow.
Lower valve body half valves and such all clean ready for install. This is how I organize while removing and I just install in the reverse order. The valving with the keepers on the left is from one side of the valve body and the rows with the keepers on the right is on the other. Here is the lower half (upside down) all factory fresh again.
The upper valve body is cleaned and reassembled like new. There are no rubber parts in the valve body itself except 15 rubber ball of two different sizes. I would be comfortable reusing those but the overhaul kit comes with new ones. The last thing before assembly of the valve body is to remove the gasket off the divider plate. The gaskets are bonded to the plate and are a huge pain to remove. I have probably been dreading this part of the overhaul the most to be honest. I'm sure the pro shops have a faster way to do this (or they just reuse the gasket or stack the gaskets) but I just take it slow and easy so I don't gouge the metal.
Upper valve body half parts cleaned and ready for reassembly. This is the completed upper half put back together. You really need to leave this half in this orientation and not turn it over as there are at least two valve retainers that are not held in with spring pressure. The yard trapped when the valve body is put together but can fall out with gravity. You must ensure all of the retainers are in place before assembling the two halves back together. This is the bonded divider plate. It's bonded on both sides. I boil it in a large pot of water to aid in softening the gasket followed by careful scrapping with a razor blade.
And not just retainers but the check ***** too if there are any in the upper body. And really the gaskets are bonded? Or just stuck good? I think most transmission shops just rinse the valve body, its too labor intensive for some of them. Just like they will never ever check bearing clearances, I don't think anyone in a transmission shop owns or knows how to read a micrometer, whoops I forgot there are some that are digital now, so no skills required. And wow seems like lots of valving for an electric shift transmission, almost as much or more than the old hydraulic controlled transmissions.
And not just retainers but the check ***** too if there are any in the upper body. And really the gaskets are bonded? Or just stuck good? I think most transmission shops just rinse the valve body, its too labor intensive for some of them. Just like they will never ever check bearing clearances, I don't think anyone in a transmission shop owns or knows how to read a micrometer, whoops I forgot there are some that are digital now, so no skills required. And wow seems like lots of valving for an electric shift transmission, almost as much or more than the old hydraulic controlled transmissions.
Yea the check ***** for sure. The divider plates holds those in. I've left them out for now. The gasket is bonded somehow, maybe with a heat activated adhesive or something. There isn't a sticky residue left behind when you scrap it off but it is bonded on there somehow. And yea. there is quite a bit of valving. The aren't but 4 solenoids with one being a pressure control and the other for lockup so it's not totally computer controlled like newer ones are.
Yea the check ***** for sure. The divider plates holds those in. I've left them out for now. The gasket is bonded somehow, maybe with a heat activated adhesive or something. There isn't a sticky residue left behind when you scrap it off but it is bonded on there somehow. And yea. there is quite a bit of valving. The aren't but 4 solenoids with one being a pressure control and the other for lockup so it's not totally computer controlled like newer ones are.
Any plans for servicing your torque converter??
I located Precision of New Hampton, Iowa that offers improved materials and assembly techniques over OEM (AISIN?)...
Since you are in rebuild mode, thought I would share the following correspondence;
"It was nice talking with you today. I have spoken with my tech about the units you are possibly needing and some services we would be able to offer to you. Below is a list of things we can do to this specific converter. Please let me know if you have any questions. You can also call and talk to one of our techs here, they would be more helpful if you are wanting some of these specific things. I hope I answered most of your questions you have. Again, a tech would be able to help you with the more specifics of these.
*reinforced fin impeller in the turbin
*flanged hub on the impeller
*change the stall—we can go up 500 or down 500 from stock stall
we can also go up 700 or down 700 from stock stall
*we can put a higher quality clutch lining than what comes from the factory
Thank you,
Tasha Pearson
Regional Logistics Manager
Client Relations Specialist
Precision of New Hampton
P:800-654-1220
F:877-394-5671
E:tasha@gopnh.com
Hi Tasha;
I found this information on the stall speed for Lexus; A650E, and A340E:
2700 + / - 150rpm for the A340E and 2250 +/ - 150 rpm for the A650E.
So if I am understanding this correctly, a 500 RPM reduction would achieve somewhere between 1,600 - 1,900 stall speed...(A650E)
ANSWER: yes that is correct.
Does stall speed increase or decrease by virtue of improved clutch lining or reinforced fins alone?
ANSWER: No
The build quality on the Lexus is pretty good ( The 3 LS400' s aged 15-20 years still appear new) so am wondering if factory fins are welded or brazed, (does your brazing procedure reduce parasitic power loss...Any % or HP figures?) whether the OEM converter is balanced, the differences in your clutch linings over OEM...and their durability..
ANSWER: They come brazed from the factory, we balance them here and the clutch linings are a higher quality to help with durability…
YODA, I am replacing the converter with an overhauled unit from the trans parts supplier that I bought the kit from. They are in Atlanta. Their converter guy has been rebuilding converters for 35 years and it has a pretty good warranty. I've used Dacco converters in the past with good success. I am not sure if he installs any upgraded parts but I know he does change the wheels as well not just the bearings and clutch. I questioned their whole process on the overhaul and got acceptable answers to the quality of the machine shop for the balancing and such. For a luxury car I am not looking to change the stall.
Reusing the torque converter would be silly for a few reasons. Mainly for wear inside the converter on the bearings and clutch but equally important for the reason of the unit being contaminated with metal. Same goes for the radiator, I couldn't imagine reusing the radiator when the Denso units are available for $65.
YODA, I am replacing the converter with an overhauled unit from the trans parts supplier that I bought the kit from. They are in Atlanta. Their converter guy has been rebuilding converters for 35 years and it has a pretty good warranty. I've used Dacco converters in the past with good success. I am not sure if he installs any upgraded parts but I know he does change the wheels as well not just the bearings and clutch. I questioned their whole process on the overhaul and got acceptable answers to the quality of the machine shop for the balancing and such. For a luxury car I am not looking to change the stall.
Reusing the torque converter would be silly for a few reasons. Mainly for wear inside the converter on the bearings and clutch but equally important for the reason of the unit being contaminated with metal. Same goes for the radiator, I couldn't imagine reusing the radiator when the Denso units are available for $65.
So OK...your response arrived within 5 minutes of my post...
Not advocating change in stall speed....or reusing...but rebuilding to improve over OEM...
This company will rebuild your torque converter with improved parts.
Otherwise, use new OEM.
A warranty does not persuade me to buy from anyone anymore...
Unless I do a factory tour or have a facilities report from any rebuilder;;engine, trans, Alternator, P.S. pump, rack etc...demostrating they manufacture what they sell and build quality...then they are not getting my business.
Too much puffery from suppliers...
I really like their improved durabilty of triple disc clutch material, balancing, steel billet cover, bllet converter flange.
Am usually an advocate of OEM...but this tebuilder demonstrates increased durability, efficiency and smoothness
Yea dicer, I was curious how they get the converters apart. He said they turn them on a lathe and mill the weld away and go from there. If I were building the trans for a turbo Supra or something I would look at all the upgrades but I just want dependability right now.
Finally the valve body separator plate is clean and ready for the new gaskets. You'll be able to judge by the photos in this post how much of a PITA this is. Boiling the part is pretty much a must.
02-23-17 | 03:04 PM
