Synthetic Engine Oil
#16
Have used Mobil 1 for over thirty years and am a believer in synthetic oil. But this is not an ad for M1. ANY name brand full synthetic will do an excellent job.
Since I reside in Scottsdale and it gets pretty toasty out here, I run M1 0W-40 in the Lexi as well as an 8 cylinder BMW and 4 cylinder turbo BMW year round with OCIs of 5-6K miles. 0W provides the best low temperature starting available, and 40 grade on high side provides excellent HTHS journal bearing protection.
Lexi has 161K miles on her and is my wife's daily driver. There is absolutely zero measurable oil usage between oil changes, and she runs like a top.
Synthetic is so cheap these days that there is no reason to use Dino oil.
But if you had to, Dino oils are also so very improved that I wouldn't blink an eye to run a good Group III heavily hydro processed Dino oil with 3-4K OCI.
I agree with what others have said. I would never run 0W-20 in ANY car. My daughter drives a Mazda 3 2L that in the US recommends 0W-20 in the owners manual. But Mazda also recommends 0W-30 everywhere else in the world that they sell the exact same engine. Because they submit the car for US EPA mileage testing with 0W-20 they must be consistent in mileage claims. IMHO 20 grade oil is WAY TOO light, especially for engines that have piston squirters. Mazda knows this but puts the owner at risk. My daughter runs 0W-30 or 5W-30 only in her Mazda.
Since I reside in Scottsdale and it gets pretty toasty out here, I run M1 0W-40 in the Lexi as well as an 8 cylinder BMW and 4 cylinder turbo BMW year round with OCIs of 5-6K miles. 0W provides the best low temperature starting available, and 40 grade on high side provides excellent HTHS journal bearing protection.
Lexi has 161K miles on her and is my wife's daily driver. There is absolutely zero measurable oil usage between oil changes, and she runs like a top.
Synthetic is so cheap these days that there is no reason to use Dino oil.
But if you had to, Dino oils are also so very improved that I wouldn't blink an eye to run a good Group III heavily hydro processed Dino oil with 3-4K OCI.
I agree with what others have said. I would never run 0W-20 in ANY car. My daughter drives a Mazda 3 2L that in the US recommends 0W-20 in the owners manual. But Mazda also recommends 0W-30 everywhere else in the world that they sell the exact same engine. Because they submit the car for US EPA mileage testing with 0W-20 they must be consistent in mileage claims. IMHO 20 grade oil is WAY TOO light, especially for engines that have piston squirters. Mazda knows this but puts the owner at risk. My daughter runs 0W-30 or 5W-30 only in her Mazda.
#17
My side hobby biz is rebuilding a specific euro brand single cylinder four stroke single cylinder engines.
Mobil one was terrible internally for small needle bearings and gear teeth faces. Enough so I gave away $130 worth of red top Mobil one 12 years ago.
its possible that the internal parts especially the rings to the cylinder and seals were designed for the dyno oil?
only a long term 300k teardown in exact engines with the different oils would maybe shed light on this.
seen lots of 250-300k miles on dyno oil in these and one 421k report.
Seems the blueprinted nature of the Lexus engines might be mitigating any easy to diagnosis issues in normal uses.
if I have a ring seal issue from dirt injestion a switch to white container Rotella will reseat the rings in most cases.
Mobil one was terrible internally for small needle bearings and gear teeth faces. Enough so I gave away $130 worth of red top Mobil one 12 years ago.
its possible that the internal parts especially the rings to the cylinder and seals were designed for the dyno oil?
only a long term 300k teardown in exact engines with the different oils would maybe shed light on this.
seen lots of 250-300k miles on dyno oil in these and one 421k report.
Seems the blueprinted nature of the Lexus engines might be mitigating any easy to diagnosis issues in normal uses.
if I have a ring seal issue from dirt injestion a switch to white container Rotella will reseat the rings in most cases.
#18
Driver School Candidate
All the above are interesting discussions.
FYI, JM Lexus is the largest Lexus Dealer in the world and owned by the importer of all Lexus' and Toyota's for the entire SE USA.
They have inside scoop to Lexus/Toyota like almost no one else. They have serviced 2 SC430's, LS430 and RX350 for me.
I am dropping off my 2008 SC430 with 43,500 miles today for an oil change, tire rotation and small, inside door cosmetic issue. I will talk to the service/warranty people on when/why they decided to switch all SC430's to Mobile 1 0w-20.
FYI, JM Lexus is the largest Lexus Dealer in the world and owned by the importer of all Lexus' and Toyota's for the entire SE USA.
They have inside scoop to Lexus/Toyota like almost no one else. They have serviced 2 SC430's, LS430 and RX350 for me.
I am dropping off my 2008 SC430 with 43,500 miles today for an oil change, tire rotation and small, inside door cosmetic issue. I will talk to the service/warranty people on when/why they decided to switch all SC430's to Mobile 1 0w-20.
#19
Lexus Test Driver
i ask because certain Toyota and Honda engines have oil use issues. I believe the Honda ring issues have to do with with the economy mode. It will shutdown cylinders to save fuel and this causes the rings to stick. Then oil is allowed to pass and burn.
the one on the left?
Last edited by Bgw70; 03-23-17 at 01:48 PM.
#20
The white rotella is 50/50 Dino and syn. The higher friction from the Dino part reseats the ring.
my local Honda dealer service writer is a old bud and he mentioned the cylinder de activation sucks stuff up from the crankcase.
the four cylinders have no de activation and no ring failures
only three specific cylinders are being warrantied on the affected engines by Honda per my buddy
my local Honda dealer service writer is a old bud and he mentioned the cylinder de activation sucks stuff up from the crankcase.
the four cylinders have no de activation and no ring failures
only three specific cylinders are being warrantied on the affected engines by Honda per my buddy
#21
I use the pennzoil ultra platinum, because the base oil is cleaner. It's 20% cleaner than the api requires for oil called synthetic. It's 8% cleaner than mobile 1. It has also shown to clean a dirty engine better than Mobil 1. On the link then read under benefits. There's also other independent data out there. http://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/produc...-platinum.html technical data sheets. http://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/produc...inum-5W-30.pdf
Last edited by Coleroad; 03-23-17 at 02:55 PM.
#23
The NOACK Volatility Test, determines the evaporation loss of lubricants in high-temperature service. The more motor oils vaporize, the thicker and heavier they become, contributing to poor circulation, reduced fuel economy and increased oil consumption, wear and emissions. The pennzoil ultra is way better in this respect than its competitors. Less evaporation also means the intake system stays cleaner. This is especially needed in GDI engines. Even in a port injection engine, throttle body and intake stay cleaner. There is also less oil going into the exhaust. So less is getting on the O2 sensors, and the catalyst in the catalytic converters. They've developed something other makers are going to be chasing.
#24
Lexus Test Driver
The NOACK Volatility Test, determines the evaporation loss of lubricants in high-temperature service. The more motor oils vaporize, the thicker and heavier they become, contributing to poor circulation, reduced fuel economy and increased oil consumption, wear and emissions. The pennzoil ultra is way better in this respect than its competitors. Less evaporation also means the intake system stays cleaner. This is especially needed in GDI engines. Even in a port injection engine, throttle body and intake stay cleaner. There is also less oil going into the exhaust. So less is getting on the O2 sensors, and the catalyst in the catalytic converters. They've developed something other makers are going to be chasing.
i decided to begin using Quaker State Ultimate Durability, from the chart you posted, it appears to be pretty good and $20 for five qts at Walmart.
#25
Lower the better. It means it's more stable at high temperatures. I'm just stating what I've chosen and why. Not putting down any other brand. My choice changed after I got a GDI engine in the stable. So I had done more research on oil to reduce carbon build up on the intake valves.
Last edited by Coleroad; 03-24-17 at 01:29 PM.
#26
Driver School Candidate
Oil Specs
I'm fairly new to this forum and recently grabbed a 2010 SC and love it! This is our "warm weather" car and looking forward to using it a lot more in the very near future. I did stumble across the attachment from the Lexus website that specifically lists both 5W-20 and 0W-20 as acceptable oil types for the 2010 SC430 and since the engines were all the same, this should work for them all. Hope this helps!
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ccurtin1 (03-27-17)
#27
Lexus Test Driver
I'm fairly new to this forum and recently grabbed a 2010 SC and love it! This is our "warm weather" car and looking forward to using it a lot more in the very near future. I did stumble across the attachment from the Lexus website that specifically lists both 5W-20 and 0W-20 as acceptable oil types for the 2010 SC430 and since the engines were all the same, this should work for them all. Hope this helps!
#28
Driver School Candidate
I'm fairly new to this forum and recently grabbed a 2010 SC and love it! This is our "warm weather" car and looking forward to using it a lot more in the very near future. I did stumble across the attachment from the Lexus website that specifically lists both 5W-20 and 0W-20 as acceptable oil types for the 2010 SC430 and since the engines were all the same, this should work for them all. Hope this helps!
#29
Lexus Test Driver
What Every Motorist Should Know About Motor Oil
http://www.aa1car.com/library/motor_oil_605.htm
Last edited by Bgw70; 03-27-17 at 01:20 PM.