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I too hate chips, I have a full SunTek clear bra on the front clip of my vehicle and its great. Coupled with being careful about distances it has kept the front end of my LS 99% pristine in the 2 years I've had it. Wasn't cheap, $1,400 but worth it to me.
Good installers can put it places where you're getting chips like the rear lower bumper area, etc.
Responding to your thread title, I myself somewhat "regret" having selected Ultra White on my IS not for the maintenance (although I see a lot of stuck-on dirt I'll need to polish off), but more because I like color in my cars. People who know me are "shocked" I bought a white car but I had owned all colors except my first pride and joy, a white MR2 15 years ago, so was time for a change.
In any case, what I have tried with near professional results is a scratch repair kit. I've used it to fill deep scratches, and filling in a chip is the same principle. The idea is simple and is what lesz stated above on the principle of light reflection. If the filled in scratch or chip is flush, the light won't bounce differently and you will hardly notice it anymore. So how is it done? You fill in the cavity with OEM touch-up paint slightly above flush to the adjacent paint, after drying, wet-sand the small area down to flush, apply polishing compound, done! Sounds intimidating, but it works and is safe with the use of a kit thanks to the high-grit wet-sand paper pads and final polishing compound that shines up the small area like new again. There are a few kits out there but one I have used over the years with excellent results is Turtle Wax Scratch Repair kit. You can find it anywhere including Walmart for less than $20.
2-3 hours on a Saturday with some attention to detail, and you can sleep better at night. Try it in an inconspicuous area first to get comfortable with the process.
Good luck, it's doable.
Responding to your thread title, I myself somewhat "regret" having selected Ultra White on my IS not for the maintenance (although I see a lot of stuck-on dirt I'll need to polish off), but more because I like color in my cars. People who know me are "shocked" I bought a white car but I had owned all colors except my first pride and joy, a white MR2 15 years ago, so was time for a change.
In any case, what I have tried with near professional results is a scratch repair kit. I've used it to fill deep scratches, and filling in a chip is the same principle. The idea is simple and is what lesz stated above on the principle of light reflection. If the filled in scratch or chip is flush, the light won't bounce differently and you will hardly notice it anymore. So how is it done? You fill in the cavity with OEM touch-up paint slightly above flush to the adjacent paint, after drying, wet-sand the small area down to flush, apply polishing compound, done! Sounds intimidating, but it works and is safe with the use of a kit thanks to the high-grit wet-sand paper pads and final polishing compound that shines up the small area like new again. There are a few kits out there but one I have used over the years with excellent results is Turtle Wax Scratch Repair kit. You can find it anywhere including Walmart for less than $20.
2-3 hours on a Saturday with some attention to detail, and you can sleep better at night. Try it in an inconspicuous area first to get comfortable with the process.
Good luck, it's doable.
I agree with all that you have said about your technique for getting excellent results with touch-up paint.
I use a technique that is a little different, but it is based on the same theory, and it also yields excellent results.
I start, as I said in a previous post, by applying the touch-up paint with a very fine artist's brush, which gives me more control over how much paint I'm applying and where I apply it. I try to stay within the border of the paint chip, and I fill the chip with paint to a level slightly higher than that of the surrounding paint to allow for a bit of shrinkage as the paint dries. When I do apply the paint, I have a microfiber cloth with some mildly abrasive polish ready so that, if I don't get the paint exactly where I want it or if any goes onto the surrounding paint, I can clean it off immediately and try again to get the paint where I want it to be.
Then, I wait about 20-45 minutes (depending on the temperature) to give the touch-up paint enough time to dry to the touch but not enough time to fully harden. At that point, if the repaired area is still a bit higher than the surrounding factory paint or if a small amount of paint has gone over the factory paint surrounding chip, I'll use a mildly abrasive polish, like 3M Machine Glaze, on the repaired area. The polish will remove a bit of the not yet hardened touch paint without removing any of the well-cured factory paint surrounding the chip. Then, when the touch-up paint is down to the level of the surrounding paint, I'll finish the job by using a very mildly-abrasive polish, like 3M Hand Glaze, and that will completely restore any shine that has been slightly dulled by using the Machine Glaze.
While my method accomplishes the same thing as yours, the Machine Glaze does the same thing as the wet sanding does in your method. And, for me, avoiding having to wet sand makes me feel a bit less nervous. With this method, I can get repairs of paint chips even with difficult to match colors that are virtually undetectable unless you are looking very carefully from just a few inches away.
When people use touch-up paint with the (too big) brush that comes with the touch-up paint and just slap a glob of paint on the chip, that is when the touch-up paint will be at a different level from the surrounding paint, and it will catch the light differently and look like there is a permanently splattered bug on the car.
Would strongly recommend paint protection film on the frontal areas (hood, bumper, mirrors) if you live in a winter climate where the roads get sanded (read gravelled). I've had mostly white cars my entire life and found it's actually the easiest to maintain. I went for a darker grey before and it was instant remorse. White cars look amazing when clean and Lexus' Ultra White is my favorite due to the cool color temperature. I actually think paint chips are least noticeable on white (at least at a distance). In 5 years, you will hardly ever notice any swirls but on a dark car, they are nearly impossible to avoid..
I bought a super spicy NX200 F-Sport in Ultra White with the Rioja Red interior on Saturday, and I freaking LOVE it. My first Lexus, btw.
But.
I'm already regretting the white paint. There are two small chips already on the back end, and boy do chips show on white. (I've always had dark cars before this.) I went to the dealer today to get some touch-up paint, and the service guy told me it would take a good 10 applications to really cover the chip. I've done maybe 6 today and I can still see the metal.
Anyone else experienced this? I know Lexus offers a protective film for the front end, but what can I do about the rear? At this rate, I picture myself in two weeks witg a bazillion little chips and totally regretting the choice of white.
Any advice would be MUCH appreciated.
I have a 2023 rx 350 f sport in the ultra white. I am having the same problems as far as the paint chipping so easily. There is another thread where others are complaining about the same issue. Maybe we all should reach out to Lexus and file a complaint.
Yea Lexus paint sucks, chips way too easy. My 2016 Lexus has way more chips than my 2007 Honda. The metallic color paint also make it very hard to do touch ups.
04-13-17, 07:08 AM
