Love my gs but now I'm having problems with it.
#32
So took the car back to the dealer and they checked the battery and other things again, everything came out good, now I'm thinking it could be a faulty fuel injector or the fuel pump is not building enough pressure after the car has been sitting for more than 7 hours. I took the car to a different dealership, steering McCall Lexus in Houston TX.
#33
I had a non-Lexus vehicle but fuel injected. The car would crank a while before it would start. Turned out to be a check-valve on the fuel pump letting the pressure slowly bleed off as the car sat. I'm not sure what kind of setup the dual fuel injection uses?
#34
Yeah that or the fuel pump failing, I just don't know how to get the dealer to check it, since they won't do anything since they can't duplicate the problem even tho I keep telling them that it doesn't do it all the time.
#35
I don't know if I would consider that quite a "slow start" yet...but the issue is almost certainly the battery. Even if it isn't failing the load test, diminished cranking amps...a new battery will bring back the quick start.
BTW your GS is beautiful, best color for the GS IMHO.
BTW your GS is beautiful, best color for the GS IMHO.
Also agree it a battery issue as well
#36
Hi guys again my husband replaced my front rotors yesterday and he noticed that the front wheels on my gs are scratched like they are rubbing against something, the car does make a grind noise when accelerating after stopping then it goes away. Here are some pics of the wheel
#40
In the video it doesn't sound like the battery is low. A good test of the battery is to turn on the headlights and use High Beam to get the max draw on the battery.
You can even turn on the the ignition so everything is on, the longer you leave it the more the battery is tested, maybe 15 seconds would be a good average test and then try and start the car.
It would be normal to hear a slow crank when trying to start. If it starts it isn't a bad battery issue. The battery could still have an issue in the cold. Normally battery issues show up when the first cold front hits or soon after and on a cold morning.
It causes the plates in the battery to shrink and cause the battery to not pass voltage. A Good battery should rest at 12.5 volts and above when everything is off. When you turn on normal items the battery should stay above 12.0 volts.
When starting the voltage will drop and could be as low as 10.5-11.0 volts. When the car is running the voltage should be about 14.0 volts, a system with the engine reving at 2,000 rpms should show 14.4 volts.
So back to your slow start issue, there are 2 basic things the computer needs to see to start. The crank sensor and the cam shaft sensor. Crank sensor tells the computer when to fire the spark, and the cam sensor is used to pulse the fuel injectors.
I think you have one of those going bad. Which one, at this time can only be determined by replacing 1 of them and see if the issue shows up in a week.
I think your issue of having the car looked at and the problem not showing itself for a couple of days after it being looked at is because when the battery is disconnected from the car the computer goes into a basic startup map. Meaning it collects data on how the car runs but if it looses power or is reset it looses that info and needs the car to run for X-amount of time to relearn the way it operates then it uses the learned information. It is also a like the "Limp Home Mode", if it looses one of the sensors it can run but in a low performance mode so your not left stranded out in the middle of no-where.
Usually the Cam Shaft Sensor is on the cam cover on the upper part of the motor. These sensors run $60-$125 each
Unfortunately until one of them completely fails it will be difficult which one is the problem.
It is possible a diagnostic machine at the dealer or other shop may be able to see if one of the sensors isn't sending a consistent signal. That is $$$ to find it. If it is under warranty I am guessing the dealer will not offer to find it.
Good Luck and I hope the issue is found sooner than later.
You can even turn on the the ignition so everything is on, the longer you leave it the more the battery is tested, maybe 15 seconds would be a good average test and then try and start the car.
It would be normal to hear a slow crank when trying to start. If it starts it isn't a bad battery issue. The battery could still have an issue in the cold. Normally battery issues show up when the first cold front hits or soon after and on a cold morning.
It causes the plates in the battery to shrink and cause the battery to not pass voltage. A Good battery should rest at 12.5 volts and above when everything is off. When you turn on normal items the battery should stay above 12.0 volts.
When starting the voltage will drop and could be as low as 10.5-11.0 volts. When the car is running the voltage should be about 14.0 volts, a system with the engine reving at 2,000 rpms should show 14.4 volts.
So back to your slow start issue, there are 2 basic things the computer needs to see to start. The crank sensor and the cam shaft sensor. Crank sensor tells the computer when to fire the spark, and the cam sensor is used to pulse the fuel injectors.
I think you have one of those going bad. Which one, at this time can only be determined by replacing 1 of them and see if the issue shows up in a week.
I think your issue of having the car looked at and the problem not showing itself for a couple of days after it being looked at is because when the battery is disconnected from the car the computer goes into a basic startup map. Meaning it collects data on how the car runs but if it looses power or is reset it looses that info and needs the car to run for X-amount of time to relearn the way it operates then it uses the learned information. It is also a like the "Limp Home Mode", if it looses one of the sensors it can run but in a low performance mode so your not left stranded out in the middle of no-where.
Usually the Cam Shaft Sensor is on the cam cover on the upper part of the motor. These sensors run $60-$125 each
Unfortunately until one of them completely fails it will be difficult which one is the problem.
It is possible a diagnostic machine at the dealer or other shop may be able to see if one of the sensors isn't sending a consistent signal. That is $$$ to find it. If it is under warranty I am guessing the dealer will not offer to find it.
Good Luck and I hope the issue is found sooner than later.
#42
Well shows how long ago I was a trouble shooter as my job.
The other accessories will draw it down if you run them for a little bit then try to start.
#44
Thanks for the fast replies. The battery is what I was thinking too. I'm not sure if they used the gr8 when I took it to the dealer but they kept it for 4 days over the weekend and said they tried several different things. I also cleaned the throttle body and air flow sensor and tightened one of the intake hoses. That seemed to help for about a week but it has started again. I will probably just buy a new battery on my own if it gets worse and see if that is the problem. Are there any specific ones that you would recommend?