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guess i just feel bored and want to get the feel of the first time DIY changing the oil on GX460.
the whole DIY process is not much more difficult than the LS460.
the hardest part is removing/replacing the skid plate.
guess i just feel bored and want to get the feel of the first time DIY changing the oil on GX460.
the whole DIY process is not much more difficult than the LS460.
the hardest part is removing/replacing the skid plate.
When the 10,000 mile oil change interval was first introduced, I was skeptical and kept doing my own oil changes around 5,000-7,500 miles. Now I go the full 10,000 and have not looked back.
The quality of the oil used is everything. If you buy cheap oil, change it often. A "synthetic" motor oil can have several different base oils. Some are not any better than a good mineral oil. PAO is one that is no better than a good mineral oil. The original Mobil1 was ester based and the 15,000 mile Mobil 1 is similar. I run the 15,000 mile 0-20w Mobil1 and change it between 10,000-15,000 miles depending on the time of year. Summer less miles due to the heat. Winter, isn't as hard on the oil.
2 reasons to change oil: oxidation and dirt. Black oil is oxidized and contaminated with carbon. The darker it is the sooner it needs to be changed.
just performed oil change around 5k after dealer's oil change, using 0w20 fully synthetic
the old black engine oil looks pretty bad,
will probably continue with the 5k OCI.
Was 8.2 quarts as stated in manual fairly accurate with filter swap?
The quality of the oil used is everything. If you buy cheap oil, change it often. A "synthetic" motor oil can have several different base oils. Some are not any better than a good mineral oil. PAO is one that is no better than a good mineral oil. The original Mobil1 was ester based and the 15,000 mile Mobil 1 is similar. I run the 15,000 mile 0-20w Mobil1 and change it between 10,000-15,000 miles depending on the time of year. Summer less miles due to the heat. Winter, isn't as hard on the oil.
2 reasons to change oil: oxidation and dirt. Black oil is oxidized and contaminated with carbon. The darker it is the sooner it needs to be changed.
What about fuel dilution, acid and contamination? I rarely see oils that are oxidized beyond use. These GX's pee fuel into the crank case from what I've been able to see. I have found the opposite with winter leading to higher fuel % in my experience. Although I suppose one could argue more driver's idle their vehicles.
engine oil i use are either Mobile 1 0w20 or Penzoil 0w20, they run rebates every year and costs about $12 per 5QT jug after rebate.
may also try Castrol 0w20 later.
Tentative plan is to change oil/filter next Friday. I am going to cutover to the metal oil filter cap via conversion and add a Fumoto drain valve. I want to do a Blackstone oil test next go around.
Ok... I wasted a little money picking up a stock plastic cap since I didn't want any surprises when I cutover to the metal cap. Here is the converted metal cap I will use with this next oil change. All I needed out of the plastic cap was that center metal piece.
I just got done with an oil change. That is a lot of oil. It might have filled the one oil drain container but brought another one over to drain into since I didn't want to spill any of it while moving container. I've never owned a diesel engine which use a lot.... so before this rig about 5 quarts was the maximum. Final tally for mine to dipstick fill line was 8 quarts / 8 ozs... still really close to 8.2 quarts. I had on Rhino Ramps as well. No issues with metal filter and in fact feels good on tightening. I've heard people say the plastic covers didn't really give you a lot of confidence when on tight enough. I just used torque specs listed earlier in thread. Kinda weird putting a filter on like this with a torque setting as everything else I have had was the twist on canister basically hand tight.
Adding the Fumoto valve should have been easier but had to spend some time picking at the stock drain plug gasket that was solidly stuck to the bottom of the oil pan. For all I know this was the stock gasket. I have doubts dealers change these on every oil change. It finally picked off... I didn't want to damage any surface so used a plastic tool. Torqued it to 30-ft-lbs. This will make future oil changes easier & cleaner. I pulled all the plates off since this was my first change and just wanted lots of space. I wanted to ensure I could get my torque wrench up there for the Fumoto. In the future just the small drain plug plate and the front plate will need to be removed. The center plate can stay in place.
It is possible to keep things relatively clean with stock oil filter cap if you are slow to unscrew but with the new metal one with drain it should make it even cleaner. There is quite a bit of oil left in there so if you just quickly unscrew the stock cap you could create a mess.
Nice!
I probably will do the next change myself instead of bringing it to the dealer (Toyota charges $69 for it). I've done all oil changes on all my other cars too.
Which Fumoto valve you have? I got one with extention for the Odyssey but decided not to install because the indent at the drain plug makes it hard to tighten and the extention makes it stick too far out.
I went with this Fumoto valve so I could utilize a drain tube into a container. Easy to tighten and easily clears the drain plug panel you remove to drain.
07-17-17 | 04:26 AM
