2000 GS300 thermostat housing replacement
#1
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
2000 GS300 thermostat housing replacement
Has anyone here had to replace the actual housing where the thermostat sits inside of?
It looks like I have a leak on the bent looking metal tube just above the stat & I wanted to know if I have to replace the housing,water pump or both?
Any & all comments would be greatly appreciated
Thanks All
It looks like I have a leak on the bent looking metal tube just above the stat & I wanted to know if I have to replace the housing,water pump or both?
Any & all comments would be greatly appreciated
Thanks All
#2
iModerate
I believe the thermostat is pinched between the water pump and thermostat housing (water inlet) on the 3.0L. What do you have to replace? The part that failed. Determine that and you will know where to go with the repair. Pictures may help. We have some 3.0L masters around here, hopefully someone will chime in.
#4
Instructor
iTrader: (16)
There is a gasket that goes around the thermostat. I just bought an OEM thermostat and to my surprise it wasn't included. I ended up going to Oreilly's and buying a new one for like $2 or something. The OP needs to explain the situation better (pics maybe). It could be a bad gasket. Also the thermostat needs to be aligned properly. The jiggle valve on the thermostat needs to align with the bump on the housing pipe. I'm not sure if that could cause it to leak though. It could also just be a leaky pump and have nothing to do with the housing.
#5
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (14)
The location of the leak you as you have described it is the heater core tube. It bolts onto the back of the water pump rear housing with two 12mm nuts on studs, there is a gasket between that. You may just need to simply replace the gasket and retorque the nuts. Quick and easy job.
To replace the rear pump housing you are speaking of would essentially be doing a timing belt job, because it all has to come off to get the waterpump off the block.
The water pump is two halves, the front half has the impeller and pulley, and the rear half has all the water ports and tstat housing mount. You can't take the back half off unless the pump is removed from the engine, and it extends behind the timing cover and timing belt and bolts to the front of the block.
Unless the aluminum pump housing is cracked then a new gasket and rebolting the heatercore tube should stop the leak. The rear half doesn't just go bad.
To replace the rear pump housing you are speaking of would essentially be doing a timing belt job, because it all has to come off to get the waterpump off the block.
The water pump is two halves, the front half has the impeller and pulley, and the rear half has all the water ports and tstat housing mount. You can't take the back half off unless the pump is removed from the engine, and it extends behind the timing cover and timing belt and bolts to the front of the block.
Unless the aluminum pump housing is cracked then a new gasket and rebolting the heatercore tube should stop the leak. The rear half doesn't just go bad.
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#9
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Hey 99 GS3
So just unbolt,pull out tube & put in new O-rings?
Sounds to easy?
The pressure won't blow out the hose?
I thought it'd be clamped at the bottom at least?
Thanks
So just unbolt,pull out tube & put in new O-rings?
Sounds to easy?
The pressure won't blow out the hose?
I thought it'd be clamped at the bottom at least?
Thanks
Last edited by Louielace6; 10-01-17 at 09:02 AM. Reason: word clamped was misspelled
#10
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (14)
There is no clamp, just take off the two bolts that hold it to the head, and then pull it straight up, (since it's aluminum it will likely be oxidixed and very tight so just keep wiggling it and pulling and it will eventually just pop up and off). There is a small male to male tube with an oring on each end that mates the female end on that bent water bypass tube and the water pump housing. make sure to clean all the gunk and oxidation off the tubes and pump, some 320 sandpaper works well, or anything like a brass wire brush, steel wool, etc. Then install the new orings on the male mating tube and reassemble. Put a little dishsoap on your finger and lube the orings lightly with it right before you insert it, it will let the orings slide right in without them tearing or rolling. Easy job, it will make total sense once you take the tube off..
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