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Drove around the block this morning with no problems. I went out for lunch and leaving the restaurant I got the trouble lights. When I got home I was going to disconnect the bypass and found that the purple starter wire was not connected.
My mechanic is a moron Oh...wait...never mind.
Revs are just for fun (I doubt my iPhone works well for this).
Reinstalled the filter this morning. I noticed that the foam is a little brittle than the last time. It felt a bit harder and doesn’t bounce back to form as quickly when you squeeze it.
Does anyone know the correct screw size for the cap? I want to replace it with a Philip head for easy removal as I don’t want to carry an extra tool for it
bbqsoup: thought my tool for measuring bolts and threads was in the toolbox but must have gotten put somewhere else or I would have some specs for you. Sorry...
I'm keeping the filter and vent cover with the vehicle for now in case I need to put back on for the potential warranty work. I had just enough space in the storage area in the back door.
Drove around the block this morning with no problems. I went out for lunch and leaving the restaurant I got the trouble lights. When I got home I was going to disconnect the bypass and found that the purple starter wire was not connected.
My mechanic is a moron Oh...wait...never mind.
Revs are just for fun (I doubt my iPhone works well for this).
I connected the starter wire and received this today.
I disconnected the bypass and cleared the codes.. The same code is still there when I scan again and it is not ready for emission test. I always questioned the bypass module as I only received this code after my original install of it. Here I am again with the same code the day after the correct bypass install procedure, yes I last made a mistake with the starter wire and corrected it.
I ask this question, when does the truck scan the system, meaning a diagnostic check? Cold start? Every start up? Unless the bypass is actually causing this component to fail, I should have the needed restore to clear the trouble. I'll see how it goes tomorrow......
Does the module have a separate ground wire? Saw a post on Tundra forum with similar 113 error and a bypass and they had a bad ground connection. Not sure if same bypass though. Not sure on when sensors are detected. Looking through FSM.
I wonder if not ready is there because there are active codes?
No ground wire on my bypass. It seems that I am experiencing the same thing when I had the system replaced. It takes time to get a restore with the secondary intake system. I scanned the system this morning after a cold start (I could hear the pump running and then shut off). I did get the same trouble code and never received the trouble lights today.
I scanned again later in the day with some highway driving and no codes, but still not ready for an emissions test. This is exactly what I had after the replacement was done. Once all is cleared I will discuss this with Hewitt.
Walked into the garage the other morning and heard an odd humming. Finally located the source coming from the wife's GX driver's-side rear wheel well. It sounded to me like a small air pump.
My GX is a base model. I thought only the Luxury GX had the secondary air suspension system???
If not the 2ndary ***, what do you think this sound might be? Wifey-the-Broom-Rider hasn't told me of any lights on the instru-panel yet. (fingers crossed)
Funny timing with that question. I took my time and decided to get back on it a few days ago. Scanned and no codes so I called Hewitt to discuss. I explained what I have gone through and was asked to send in my bypass and they will send a new one. Here is the email thread that has some good information (don"t think they would mind me posting this as it is informative). It will be interesting to see if the new bypass works
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.From:support@hewitt-tech.com Sent: Thursday, November 9, 2017 3:14 PM
If it was a sensor that was that bad you would get it with or without the kit installed. If you can clear it without the kit on there and only getting it with the installed definitely sounds more like a bad connection between the bypass harness and the factory harness or sensor. We tried to move the connectors around when we were testing it and couldn’t get it to duplicate.
The P0113 should only be thrown if the IAT voltage is above 4.91V for at least 0.5s. I don’t suppose you looked at the intake temp with you scan tool when it was doing this?
If the IAT circuit was open it would have shown as -40f the whole time not just when you came back out after lunch which is why I still suspect just a bad connection.
We will just send you out a new module but everything just points to having a bad connection between the module and vehicle. Just let me know what happens and we can do more troubleshooting.
Aside from that I was trying to read through the posting on club Lexus to get better idea of what is going on in your post.
To clear permanent codes you have to clear the confirmed and pending versions of that code first. Only the confirmed codes cause the CEL and the the permanent codes will go away by themselves if the system related to the code operates correctly or in the case of the bypass kit they will just drop out by themselves after a certain number of drive cycles without the pending or confirmed version of that code showing back up. Those codes being stored as permanent codes is normal as described above. The P0113 code as a confirmed code seemed to be the only problem.
The secondary air system codes showing up as permanent is normal. They were cleared and staying off but just hadn’t dropped out of the computer yet.
About the monitors. These cause a lot of confusion for some people. Depending on the tester they will use ready/not ready or complete/not complete.
Ready and complete mean the same thing as do not ready and not complete.
Not Ready for the SAIS just means it hasn’t run. Since it is a secondary system it is not required to either. A lot of places will let you get by with one incomplete anyways.
The Evap not ready just means it hasn’t had a chance to run. It typically requires a certain parameters to be met before it will run.
You can force the tests to run with a Techstream software or you can use confirmation driving patterns to trigger them but you still to meet the monitor requirements.
Here is what you can do to trigger the EVAP tests.
CONFIRMATION DRIVING PATTERN
HINT:After a repair, check Monitor Status by performing the Key-off Monitor Confirmation and Purge Flow Monitor Confirmation described below.
1. KEY-OFF MONITOR CONFIRMATION
(a) Preconditions
The monitor will not run unless:
The vehicle has been driven for 10 minutes or more (in a city area or on a freeway)
The fuel tank is less than 90% full
The elevation is less than 2438 m (8000 ft.)
The engine coolant temperature is between 4.4°C and 35°C (40°F and 95°F)
The intake air temperature is between 4.4°C and 35°C (40°F and 95°F)
The vehicle remains stationary (the vehicle speed is 0 km/h [0 mph])
(b) Monitor Conditions
Allow the engine to idle for at least 5 minutes.
Turn the engine switch off and wait for 6 hours (or 8 or 10.5 hours).
HINT:
Do not start the engine until checking Monitor Status. If the engine is started, the steps described above must be repeated.
HINT:If Incomplete is displayed, the monitor is not complete. Make sure that the preconditions have been met, and then perform the operations listed under Monitor Conditions again.
2. PURGE FLOW MONITOR CONFIRMATION (P0441)
HINT: Perform this monitor confirmation after the Key-off Monitor Confirmation shows Complete.
(a) Preconditions
The monitor will not run unless:
The vehicle has been driven for 10 minutes or more (in a city area or on a freeway)
The engine coolant temperature is between 4.4 and 35°C (40 and 95°F)
The intake air temperature is between 4.4 and 35°C (40 and 95°F)
(b) Monitor Conditions
Release the pressure from the fuel tank by removing and reinstalling the fuel cap.
Warm the engine up until the engine coolant temperature reaches a temperature higher than 75°C (167°F).
Increase the engine speed to 3000 rpm once.
Allow the engine to idle and turn the A/C on for 1 minute.
Sent: Thursday, November 9, 2017 1:49 PM To:support@hewitt-tech.com Subject: Re: Bypass Kit Test
I didn’t see anything that would be suspect. Wouldn’t this give me trouble codes with the factory set up?
On Nov 9, 2017, at 1:26 PM, <support@hewitt-tech.com> wrote:
Hey Chris,
We got you bypass module back today and everything tests perfectly. A bad or intermittent connection to the factory harness is all that really makes sense.
I don’t remember but did we take a look at all the pins to make sure they were ok?
I was getting in the truck at the dealership lot (routine service) and the dash lit up. I left everything as is, truck running and all to grab a service attendant.
It took them a few days, but they were able to get a air injection replacement kit in and banged out the job quickly.
Sorry for bumping an old thread, but I am getting the P2445 code as well on a 2005 GX470. It started when the temp dropped below freezing which I read on the Hewitt site that is a known issue. I don't know if the pump went bad or if it is a temperature issue. Regardless, I have simply been clearing the code every time it pops up. I have a Bluetooth OBDII Reader so it is easy to clear the code on my phone when it pops up so the car doesn't go into Limp Mode.
My question is, will leaving this issue and continuing to drive the vehicle cause additional damage? It sounds like this Secondary Air Pump is simply used at startup for emissions. I don't want to tear the engine apart for something that is used for 30 seconds at startup unless I really need it.
It shouldn't hurt anything but will become inconvenient over time. I'd go with the bypass if I had a 470. Fixing it on a 460 is a relative cakewalk compared replacing pump on the 470.
Sorry for bumping an old thread, but I am getting the P2445 code as well on a 2005 GX470. It started when the temp dropped below freezing which I read on the Hewitt site that is a known issue. I don't know if the pump went bad or if it is a temperature issue. Regardless, I have simply been clearing the code every time it pops up. I have a Bluetooth OBDII Reader so it is easy to clear the code on my phone when it pops up so the car doesn't go into Limp Mode.
My question is, will leaving this issue and continuing to drive the vehicle cause additional damage? It sounds like this Secondary Air Pump is simply used at startup for emissions. I don't want to tear the engine apart for something that is used for 30 seconds at startup unless I really need it.
09-24-17, 11:35 AM
Oh...wait...never mind.
