Wilson2000

I completed a 500 mile initial oil change using 0-16w Mobil 1 oil and a K&N filter. I posted my impressions in the "Initial Oil Change" thread. Because of issues with glitter and gas dilution, I'll do a couple more changes before the complimentary 10K change performed by the dealer.

I have since found a better filter which I will likely use from now on, a FRAM Synthetic Endurance Premium Oil Filter, FE4967, available online or in the store at Walmart for about $13. One Walmart poster wrote, "Champion labs makes this filter and it is identical to the Amsoil filter but the Fram cost much less and is on the shelves at all Walmarts." According to Brand Ranks, a YouTube testing site, there is one better filter, the Purolator Boss, but it's not available for the late model ES 300h's.

What I'm posting about, however, is a conundrum regarding which oil to go with in the future. I bought the Mobil 1 form Amazon for the 500 mile change because it met the 0-16w spec, was affordable, and it shipped fast. I've been doing more research since then, looking for a 0-16w oil with better testing results than the Mobil 1. Both Amsoil and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum (PUP) stand out as top-of-the-field products, with Pennzoil having the edge for the cost of 5 quarts. The Amsoil is $50 and the PUP is $30.

Here's the rub...The PUP is only available in 0-20w. The owners manual says one can substitute in 0-20w if 0-16w isn't available. So, let me know what you think. Do I go with 0-16w Amsoil for $50 or 0-20w PUP for $30?

It's odd that Pennzoil has a "non-Ultra" Platinum in 0-16w, but it doesn't have the same additive package as the Ultra. My guess is that Pennzoil will come out with a 0-16w Ultra Platinum soon. See this YT video regarding the difference between the two Pennzoil products:

Here's a Brand Ranks video explaining why there are so many better filters than the Toyota OEM (and OEM filters in general). A chart is provided at 10:06 into it:

Here is another Brand Ranks video ranking the most common (mostly premium) filters. A chart is provided at about 10:20 into the video:

ESh

If you ask me, you go with M1 0W16 and OEM filter from Walmart, or, TGMO 0W16 and OEM filter from Walmart.

Wilson2000

So, you choose to ingore the outcomes of independent testing, as conducted by Project Farm and Brand Ranks? Project Farm tested a lot of oils and the top two contenders were Amsoil and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. The Motor Oil Geek spoke very highly of the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, and he's a qualified expert. Brand Ranks has an impressive testing rig that generates a lot of testing data on flow and particulates. Should we ignore this data? I was a believer in Toyota's OEM filters until I watched the Brand Ranks video. Toyota favors less restriction in flow over filtering the finer particulates. It reminded me of how a K&N air filter works. They increase air flow to the engine, but, at the expense of filtering particulates. Pick your preference...performance vs wear!

Project Farm tested all the OEM motor oils on the market along with Mobil 1. All the OEM's tested better than Mobil 1, except one, Toyota's:

chuyrobles

If you are using XX4967 Fram filters, the Boss PBL14476 is a direct cross-reference. And if you have space, you can get the half-inch longer XXX14477 or Fram XX4386 filters. In Wix XP, it is 51394 for oem length or 57145 for half-inch longer. I have the 57145XP in daughter’s 24 Corolla.

I think you are over-thinking the oil selection. Unless you race, any reputable syn brand name is sufficient. It is more crucial to change the oil timely. I am not ignoring the independent testing, I am just not giving it as much weight/priority as you are.

Wilson2000

Thanks much for the filter part numbers! I was able to find both Purolator Boss products on Amazon by searching the numbers you gave. When I looked it up previously, I was searching for filters that fit the ES 300h and only a handful of misc. brands came up. But cross-referencing your numbers to an existing list of filters I use, I believe your numbers are correct.

I asked about the longer filters for the 300h in another thread and got no response. I've been using the longer filters in many vehicles, i.e., 06 Matrix, 03 Celica GTS, 85 MR2 with good results. The longer filter has double the benefit in the MR2 as the longer length makes it easier to reach too (it's a bear to get to).

Yes, I am overthinking it. As vehicles get more and more expensive ($63K out the door for our 300h) I am becoming more vigilant in keeping them in tip-top shape! Why not go with the highest rated products? The Pennzoil Ultra Platinum oil is on par with the best, Amsoil, and it is much less expensive. Both have the best additive packages among all oils, which translates into better wear protection and less thermal breakdown. Project Farm's wear-test results back this up.

I'll likely start running Amsoil until Pennzoil Ultra Platinum comes out with 0-16w oil. I just ordered a couple of the larger Purolator Boss filters, PBL14477.

ESh

Look, I believe that Toyota together with M1 make the best engine oil for their engines. I trust them and that's the end of it.
The other thing is, until now I used seven different oil manufacturers in my 2GR-FE and none of them worked as good as TGMO.

tolian21

5w-30 will also work fine

Wilson2000

No big, I'm just suggesting people consider the test data. If the products that tested poorer work for you, then great! Toyota/Lexus makes such good engines, there is likely a wide margin of error.

I wouldn't have even gone down this rabbit hole had I not seen micro-glitter in my 500 mile, used oil, on the initial change. I've been using a variety of premium oils and filters in my two Lexus and three Toyotas forever, and haven't had any engine issues. But, now that I've done some research, I'm looking for the products with the best test scores. Generally, the internet has a lot of drawbacks and pitfalls, but, this is one area where I'm confident it provides a benefit.

Wilson2000

But, why use 5w30 when 0w16 is readily available? I'm sure any weight oil would work, but why not follow the manufacturer's recommendation?

scubapr

I think the issue some members could have with using high performance oil/filter or a more frequent OCI is about “Diminishing Returns”. Our ES engines are not high performance in any way; and unless someone run them at track. A frequent 5k OCI will have a much better result than running a HP oil/filter IMHO.

Nevertheless, if the plan is to keep the car for long (8+ yr) at high millage 100k+ and give the engine the best possible trouble-free chance. Then the most important aspect, based on the current oil analysis data and expert recommendation, is a frequent oil change using the recommended owner’s manual severe interval of 5k instead of the 10k OCI. We could do 3-4k OCI and/or those high-performance parts; but I think doing so is entering into “Diminishing Returns” territory. But you are trying to give your engine the best chance, so if the money and time invested is no object, you will probably have a very healthy engine in the long run. Kudos!

It will be interesting to compare OA results in our engine using OEM vs HP under the same millage (after break-in is completed 10k+) to see how much those “Diminishing Returns” are; and if they have any impact. I’ll probably try that later on.

Note: I’ve been reading about oil analysis and fuel dilution for my specific engine A25A-FXS (300h) on BITOG for a few days now. I have learned that some of the more restrictive oil filters could cause our variable oil pump to hit pressure relief with less flow output compared to a less restrictive OEM filter. So, beware of that.

scubapr

Reading on BITOG I thing most people use a higher viscosity to counter for fuel dilution. For example, if you use 0w16 and have a fuel dilution 4%+ apparently you could end with an oil viscosity of less than 0w12 or 0w8. But honestly I don't think our engines will dilute much at a 5k OCI. Anyway, I'm still learning and researching.

Jersey5974

I was researching this the other day. Apparently the manual in australia for 7th gen ES states they can use 0-16, 0-20, 5w-30, etc. In the U.S. they only want 0-16 or 0-20 every other use. 0-16 gets better fuel economy and they only state 0-16 for US because of EPA regulations

ESh

If you drive them in short distances they will dilute but still not much because they are off 40-50% and also they use D4-S.

scubapr

Thanks! That's what I think; I just want to confirm on the next OCI/OA. I did smell fuel on the oil dipstick but BS labs reported <0.05% using the flashpoint technique. Maybe real was 1-2%, I'll try OA & BS at next OCI to compare % difference.

My main concern is that I usually drive less than 12mi (1-3 times week) with some 150-200mi long trips every 2 months.Then the occasional driveway car switch, although I always try to use EV mode, most times is not available and the engine is on for <1-2min.

tolian21

This recommendation is for US market only