is350 wont recognize key
#1
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Hey Everybody First Time Poster here! heard some amazing thing from this forum so i decided to sign up, anyways around a week ago i was driving my 08 is350 during the dead of the night when all the sudden some of the interior lights were flicking, nav flicking, power steering is sleeping, and the car will not go more then 20kms/h so i pulled over and sure enough the car dies, yay.. so i called up a helper and he came in clutch, boosted the car, yet this time it was the same ordeal, and the car died yet again, decided to boost the car a total of three times (yeah i know bad idea) until we gave up and pushed it to a nearby building where we could park it for the night, barley slept that day and rushed to the car as soon as i could, this time my dad connected some jumper cables and the alarm would go off as soon as the cables were on,but to make things worse the car no longer recognize the key.... we managed to bypass it by turning the lock as soon as the alarms beep we had to resort to the manual key cause unlock lock or panic will not work on the fob, and of course the car cant get started as well since it didn't even sense the key. (dash would say depress the pedal and push to start and of course we did that) would love if anyone in shape or form can help already craving to drive that beast, many thanks!
Last edited by SirPucci; 07-06-24 at 03:07 PM. Reason: spelling error
#2
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The common reason for the battery to discharge while driving is a failing alternator.
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#7
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Being specific about boost box, are you saying it's 24 volts system or was it a 12V system?
As for the key fob, you may need to repair immobilizer ECU with engine ECU. There are several videos of this. You need a jumper wire for the OBD port and a battery charger to keep the system voltage >12V for 30 minutes.
Cause of disconnect - as the system voltage plummets from failed alternator, computers on the CAN bus send bad packets of info and the end result is the immobilizer goes into protection mode and this can be the result. You are not the first to report this and likely won't be the last.
Let me know if you can't find the video or a thread here detailing the steps. I'm sure it's on one of my posts somewhere. Do a search with the content below and see what comes up.
#2IS Electrical troubleshooting immobilizer
As for the key fob, you may need to repair immobilizer ECU with engine ECU. There are several videos of this. You need a jumper wire for the OBD port and a battery charger to keep the system voltage >12V for 30 minutes.
Cause of disconnect - as the system voltage plummets from failed alternator, computers on the CAN bus send bad packets of info and the end result is the immobilizer goes into protection mode and this can be the result. You are not the first to report this and likely won't be the last.
Let me know if you can't find the video or a thread here detailing the steps. I'm sure it's on one of my posts somewhere. Do a search with the content below and see what comes up.
#2IS Electrical troubleshooting immobilizer
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SirPucci (07-21-24)
#9
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Being specific about boost box, are you saying it's 24 volts system or was it a 12V system?
As for the key fob, you may need to repair immobilizer ECU with engine ECU. There are several videos of this. You need a jumper wire for the OBD port and a battery charger to keep the system voltage >12V for 30 minutes.
Cause of disconnect - as the system voltage plummets from failed alternator, computers on the CAN bus send bad packets of info and the end result is the immobilizer goes into protection mode and this can be the result. You are not the first to report this and likely won't be the last.
Let me know if you can't find the video or a thread here detailing the steps. I'm sure it's on one of my posts somewhere. Do a search with the content below and see what comes up.
#2IS Electrical troubleshooting immobilizer
As for the key fob, you may need to repair immobilizer ECU with engine ECU. There are several videos of this. You need a jumper wire for the OBD port and a battery charger to keep the system voltage >12V for 30 minutes.
Cause of disconnect - as the system voltage plummets from failed alternator, computers on the CAN bus send bad packets of info and the end result is the immobilizer goes into protection mode and this can be the result. You are not the first to report this and likely won't be the last.
Let me know if you can't find the video or a thread here detailing the steps. I'm sure it's on one of my posts somewhere. Do a search with the content below and see what comes up.
#2IS Electrical troubleshooting immobilizer
Last edited by SirPucci; 07-21-24 at 04:32 AM.
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