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Tips For Washing My Motor ES300 ?

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Old 07-26-24, 09:12 AM
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JohnOlson
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Default Tips For Washing My Motor ES300 ?

Greetings Lexi fans...
I am interested in washing the engine in my 1997 ES300, do you have any tips?
I do not have a self-service car wash with a high pressure water hose so I will be doing this in my driveway. It is not a leaker, it is not real dusty, and it has zero rust, it is a California/Arizona vehicle so I just want to clean the ordinary road grime.
What would you avoid hitting directly with the hose, and what would you cover up?
I'm looking forward to your advise...


Old 07-28-24, 03:21 AM
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Oro
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Just look up a Chris Fix vid on this. Nothing unique.

I have had great success with Griot’s engine dressing. Three years later, 10k miles, and this volvo engine still looks like this. I hate to say a branded, premium product is better than OTS answers or a little elbow grease, but dang.



Old 07-28-24, 04:48 PM
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JohnOlson
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Thanks Oro,
So did you use a hose on this? Did you cover anything up? Try to keep any component dry?
Old 07-28-24, 05:08 PM
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LeX2K
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Don't wash a hot engine, don't use very high pressure and cover the brake master cylinder. Outside of that you can go to town using most any mild soap. Avoid Simple Green, the green version it attacks aluminum parts.
Old 07-28-24, 08:16 PM
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JohnOlson
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Okay guys, thanks for the tips. I'm in Arizona where the humidity today is 12%. Lexi will dry quickly.
Old 07-28-24, 08:47 PM
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Here’s an unconventional technique. If you are in AZ, likely someone nearby has a pool. Get some muriatic acid. Be careful with it if you’re aren’t familiar. Use a brush it on heavily oxidized bare metal stuff like intake manifolds, cast covers, etc. It will eat off years of oxidation really quickly. Hose it down very well to dilute and neutralize it, and it’s safe and not toxic to anything. If you want to dilute it some to make it less noxious at first, remember add acid to water, not the other way. Safer. I don’t have a pool, but keep it around for prepping metal for painting, removing rust from parts before restoring/painting, etc. It save a ton of time vs. other rust removal techniques and does wonders as a metal prep before painting.

Then you can put a top dressing on it like Griot’s or something - and it will look fresh and stay good looking a long while.
Old 07-31-24, 06:29 PM
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chndlrdavis
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I recently did my 2008 Tacoma engine bay, mine was same as yours not soaked in oil or heavy grime but wanted a touchup, I just covered my alternator and pulled my battery (could disconnect negative, I was replacing my battery at the same time). Sprayed everything down good with Gunk Foamy Engine Cleaner, let it sit for about 10 minutes and then rinsed lightly. After I let it dry I just used some spray wax and a microfiber cloth and wiped the surfaces down quick to get rid of water spots or residual dirt/dust.
Old 08-01-24, 09:01 AM
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fortitude
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Originally Posted by chndlrdavis
I recently did my 2008 Tacoma engine bay, mine was same as yours not soaked in oil or heavy grime but wanted a touchup, I just covered my alternator and pulled my battery (could disconnect negative, I was replacing my battery at the same time). Sprayed everything down good with Gunk Foamy Engine Cleaner, let it sit for about 10 minutes and then rinsed lightly. After I let it dry I just used some spray wax and a microfiber cloth and wiped the surfaces down quick to get rid of water spots or residual dirt/dust.
A word of caution with Gunk - they have different products, ensure you are buying the proper one. Their "Engine Degreaser" (which is different than Foamy Engine Cleaner) will eat the Toyota Form In Place Gaskets - ask me how I know this......
Old 08-09-24, 05:55 PM
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bmyze316
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I cover the alternator with a trash bag or something if I am spraying the engine. A garden hose is actually better than high pressure for your engine. I wouldn't pressure wash in there so no worries not having pressure washer at your house. get some detail brushes for the nooks and crannies. I love Gunk Engine Protector for that final shine after you clean.


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