I disconnected my AC lines when I did my engine swap and never recharged it. Does anyone know how much PAG-46 I'm supposed to add, and if it all goes into the compressor, or if there's a specific procedure to adding the oil throughout the system?

I checked under the hood and it just says how much R134a to add, and what type of oil to add, ND oil 8.


I've been looking online for a while now but can't seem to find anything regarding the 2is AC recharge on a completely dry system

 

Unless you removed some components from the car completely like the compressor the oil should still be there. Did any spill out? Vacuuming the system doesn't suck out the oil. Older vehicle but this thread has good info
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/es-...ion-92-es.html

 

Thanks for the response, but I forgot to add that I disconnected all the hoses and replaced the o rings and flushed the system and all that, I wanted to completely refresh the system, but now can't find the information to do so lol.

 

There are no special tricks as long as you didn't remove any oil. Disconnecting lines to replace O-rings generally won't do this but if you removed them from the compressor some oil can leak out, it has happened to me. If that happens then you play the guessing game as to how much oil needs to be added.

To remove existing oil you have to use pressure, not a vacuum and even then you won't blow all the oil out. A/C experts know how to deal with this kind of stuff I have little experience with A/C systems. Might be better to hire a pro it will cost far far more if the something goes wrong and the compressor locks up. Then you're looking at replacing ALL the components because there will metal particles everywhere.

 

I flushed the system with AC flush and compressed air. I flushed everything except the compressor, and except condenser as I replaced it. From what I've heard, the compressor takes about 4oz of PAG-46 directly into it.

 

You are now in need to be an expert territory. There are guides that tell you exactly how much oil to add depending on what you replaced etc. that is above my pay grade. I do basically all repairs on my cars, engine swaps and the like but for A/C recharge work I go to a shop.

 

Are these guides like under stuff like TIS and behind a paywall?
Also I did some other research and found out the compressor is the Denso 471-1569, which is a variable displacement compressor. For that type, I dump all the oil needed into the suction port and rotate the compressor at least 20 times. Have you ever done this before or are you familiar with this procedure ?

 

I have not done that before.
See attached file this is your typical A/C guide in a FSM.

 

OP did you run flush material through the evaporator? If so, how? Also, once you've exposed the system to ambient air and flush, you must replace the desiccant dryer pack which Toyota usually sticks in the condenser.
If everything has been flushed, your best bet is to pull the compressor and dump the oil, add correct amount of fresh PAG and install it. Depending on age and miles, you might just replace it with a new Denso which is what I did on the Tundra when it seized.

When you think you're ready, I'd pull it down for a good 3 hours before adding freon back which should be done by weight using the yellow sticker. I am far from the expert on this, I only fix my own stuff.

 

Thanks for the response. Yeah I ran AC flush through the evaporator, it was green then came out clear, I was worried it wouldn't make it through the expansion valve, but it seems everything worked out in terms of flushing.
I also bought a new condenser to replace the original.
And okay I'll pull out the compressor and refill it with the OE specified amount. If for some reason I fumble this, I'll just buy a new compressor lol

 

I would think TIS would have this information. At least a percentage break down for lines, evap, dryer, condenser, etc.

 

Alright I'll probably pay the $25 for the 2 days and get as much stuff as I need from TIS. You guys want anything? Lol

 

If you cleaned everything which it sounds like you did, my only concern is how long the dryer was exposed. Beyond that, drain compressor, fill with oil per spec, install, pull down for 3 hours, leak test, and add freon per spec. There are lookup tables for temps and pressures. I've always found them to be a little misleading when dealing with systems that have leaks or aged.