errrrrrr27

Car runs fine and no check engine lights or codes, has anyone had this happen your car before? I have watched some YouTube videos about a bad water pump and it sounds similar I just want to make sure before I buy the parts.

GrizzlyMan

It does sound very close to a bad water pump.
I would buy it from any local auto shop JIC it is not so you can return it without hassle.

I would free the serpentine belt and spin each pulley by hand to see if any of them have significant play, or feel raspy, u know, signs of wear. If not mistaken, at least in Auto Zone is lifetime warranty, so if it does go bad again, free to replace.

I hate working on anything cooling wise, the coolant mess I can't stand it, so good luck, have plenty of cardboards, rags, buckets, and if you have any pets don't leave any open coolant jugs, pans laying around. The three 10mm pulley bolts may require a special tool when trying to loosen them and tighten them down. It can be done, it's just a hassle, I bought mine in eBay, like $20 or so.

*** I reused the original metal gasket, way better quality than the one that came with the kit, no leaks, do not use any rtv.

Here is my water pump video when it died on me

errrrrrr27

it does sound similar, do you know how long it takes to replace and what parts do I need aside from the pump itself and coolant, do I need to replace the serpentine belt too, thermostat, bolts?
can I still drive it for a while or it is better to just stop driving it while I get it replaced?

Oro

Lots of people - it’s a known flaw with the engine. Google it and you will find horror stories - one member lost his engine because it dumped the fluid without warning and seized the engine. The coolant temp sensor does not trigger if there is no coolant to measure. You can be running dry a while before you find out (e.g. - when engine seizes).

Some speculate it was a bad batch of bearings used in the original pumps. Sounds like a valid theory as I don’t see reports of the same high failure rate after replacement. Our car (2009) had to have the wp changed out at ~51k miles in 2013 (prior owner records). It seems replacement pumps seem to last, though. I was contemplating changing it just yesterday, or waiting for noise. I found a GMB pump and gasket for only $50 at RockAuto, so I was contemplating just doing it. GMB is a global OE bearing, pump, CV manufacturer. Top quality, no need to buy Lexus parts.

Oro

You can localize the sound easily w/a mechanic’s stethoscope (or very long screwdriver). If my wp was hammering away, the car would not leave the driveway.

You can get away with just the pump and gasket, and fluid to top up. Serp belt if it’s old is wise to do at the same time. Idler, tensioner not mandatory if they are ok. Those are also easy to replace later if necessary. There are several DIY threads and I believe a YT video or two. If you search this issue for the IS and GS, you will find a lot of info. Is your wp original, or do you not know?

errrrrrr27

is there any accepted time frame from when you start hearing the noise and when the issue starts affecting performance, I’m very busy at the moment, I don’t think I will have time to replace it in a while and I need the car to get to work, if I can’t drive it I can just rent a car for a few days, is an urgent fix or can I wait a few weeks?

errrrrrr27

I believe so, I was looking at the records from Lexus and the wp replacement is nowhere to be found, it was very well taken care of, transmission fluid changes, coolant flushes, oil changes every 5k, fuel system, etc except for the water pump so I believe it’s the original

Oro

Have you been loosing coolant? Is the reservoir full? Is there pink (assuming you are still using Toyota SLLC) crud or slime around the water pump/behind the pulley? If that noise is the WP eating itself, no one can predict when it goes.

Was the cam gear recall done on this car? You can check that by putting the VIN in a recall search, or looking in records for the car in the Lexus app, if you use that.

I would get a long screwdriver and go around the engine and listen to localize the noise. In your video, the noise is loudest above the intake, and the sound decreases when you go near the pump. Could be the recording characteristics, but I would find the source of the noise first, which is free and easy to do. Google how to use a screwdriver as a stethoscope, or just go buy one. They are $8 at Harbor Freight.

https://www.harborfreight.com/mechan...vent_id=183117

GrizzlyMan

You can visually inspect the belt, if it has any cracks or looks dry, rotten, exposed wires and so on.
Nothing extra needed besides the pulley special tool to hold the pump pulley. It can be loosen and tighten, is just a pain without the locking tool.

It will take around two hrs at most. IMO, the most difficult thing is the restricted space. Take pictures as you go along and I would have a cardboard to maintain the bolt pattern, w the holes made corresponding the water pump.

There are plenty of videos, watch any you find the most useful, multiple times. In many videos it states what tools are needed, just normal socket short and long sets, and typical open wrenches. Do remember you are tightening to aluminum so easy, once you feel it is tight, just go a tad more and that's it. I usually grab the rachet halfway on the last tightening round to prevent stripping the bolts.

​​​​The water pump has about 12 or so bolts, cant recall, and they are not all the same length, verify the correct one goes to each. Overall is an easy job, and the aftermath coolant mess. I already mentioned it, but usually the OEM gasket will do, unless it is corroded, no sealant needed. Then of course watch videos on how to bleed out the air from the coolant system.

errrrrrr27

yes the cam gear was replaced, I’ll buy it the tool you recommended and confirm, how do you check the wp when the car is running? The belt it’s in front and it’s kinda tough to get the stethoscope in there, do you have any tips?

GrizzlyMan

Usually the water pump will have a relief valve to give a heads up it's giving out. Check the coolant level and for any small streaks of coolant around the pump pulley, it will be like as if it is sweating coolant kind of presence.
If you should keep driving it like that? Let's say it is on borrowed time if doing so, that is the whole point of making the noise, unlike brake pads that they squeal, but still do its job for a long while, sooner than later for sure. Just for the record mine is a 2012 and failed just a few months ago at 88k miles, currently is at 89.5k. If it is your daily, well, it is what it is my friend, good luck.

Cienfueg69

Somethingbis making noise in the video.
1st check the root cause of the noise.
if the WP is the origin, you can follow this video

errrrrrr27

I’m gonna have to take it in to get it diagnosed, or is there a way to make sure the water pump is causing the noise for sure?

Cienfueg69

For me it's not sure. You need to confirm it. Change the wp could be 500 dollars in the shop.