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I've got a slow but steady leak onto floor below on the passenger side (results in maybe a couple teaspoons of oil per day) . I suspect it's the cam and crank seals because it seems to be originating behind the timing belt cover.
But what do you guys think based on the pics below? It's not the VCG 'cause those were replaced a few months ago and I verified they're pretty dry and clean today.
Also, a secondary issue is that the "boot" (? I'm not sure if that's what you call it) below the pulley in the 2nd pic is cracked and is leaking grease. How does one fix this? Is it expensive? I will have to pay a mechanic it's beyond my ability.
Could be the oil pressure sending unit it's above the harmonic balancer they tend to fail and leak. That looks like an aftermarket axle or maybe the OE axle with aftermarket boot. If that's a Toyota axle then get your mechanic to only replace the boots.
Could be the oil pressure sending unit it's above the harmonic balancer they tend to fail and leak. That looks like an aftermarket axle or maybe the OE axle with aftermarket boot. If that's a Toyota axle then get your mechanic to only replace the boots.
Lex2K, thanks for that idea. I went just now and took some pics. There's plenty of oil above the oil pressure sending unit (see pic). I also see lots of dark burnt oil behind the alternator between the timing cover etc. I didn't take pic of that.
I don't think it's the oil pressure switch. But any thoughts or ideas are welcome. I bought this car new in 1999 so the axle must be original Toyota. Maybe I had the boot replaced years ago with an aftermarket - I don't remember.
It's a fools errand to try and pinpoint leaks, as you drive air blows oil all over the place. Wash the engine, start it and watch that area. If you have original axles don't toss them they are 10x better than anything aftermarket.
That #2 drip looks like hydraulic/atf and not oil. Is it from the pump?
Also, re: boot. IIRC, that’s the long axle side, harder to remove, and more likely to tear the inner seal. I know it’s frowned upon, but that looks like a great place to try this UK-made split boot. I tried one not long ago and it is well-made. It’s a relatively easy job.
This is UK made, instructions are clear and complete on how to do it correctly. They are not good for tri-lobed cans on the large end, but that one is circular and it should work well:
It’s also cheap and quick enough to try and not cry if it doesn’t last forever. As I said, I used one and was reasonably confident it was quality and likely to be worth it.
It's a fools errand to try and pinpoint leaks, as you drive air blows oil all over the place. Wash the engine, start it and watch that area. If you have original axles don't toss them they are 10x better than anything aftermarket.
Ok. I am getting some UV dye and will see what happens.
You noticed! And yeah it needs the timing belt, seals, water pump etc.
After the TB, it is far more important to replace the tensioner than any seal or the water pump. Do not omit that. It is the only “must” replace item besides the TB in fact, the rest are optional.
After the TB, it is far more important to replace the tensioner than any seal or the water pump. Do not omit that. It is the only “must” replace item besides the TB in fact, the rest are optional.
Thanks didn't know that. But I assumed they would replace tensioner from what I saw in the TRQ video.
Thanks didn't know that. But I assumed they would replace tensioner from what I saw in the TRQ video.
Make certain. I have seen it not done. IME, the tensioners have failed more often than belts (1 vs 0). When the tensioner fails, the valve train loses time, of course, same as if the belt snapped in two.
TRQ videos may be fine; don’t buy their parts. I purchased a “new” axle for a different car recently, TRQ. It arrived and was clearly used and merely cleaned and re-booted. The outboard CV joint was seized (would not freely rotate). I popped the inboard carrier bearing cover off, and there was barely any grease in the sealed bearing. It was trash, right out of the box.
Make certain. I have seen it not done. IME, the tensioners have failed more often than belts (1 vs 0). When the tensioner fails, the valve train loses time, of course, same as if the belt snapped in two.
TRQ videos may be fine; don’t buy their parts. I purchased a “new” axle for a different car recently, TRQ. It arrived and was clearly used and merely cleaned and re-booted. The outboard CV joint was seized (would not freely rotate). I popped the inboard carrier bearing cover off, and there was barely any grease in the sealed bearing. It was trash, right out of the box.
Yikes, that sounds shady. too bad because the guy who does the videos for this car is really good. Noted on the tensioner.
UPDATE. I took the timing belt cover off. The timing belt area looks pretty clean . Should there be oil in there if the cam seals and crank seals were leaking?
I put UV dye in the oil and I clearly see a leak from where the front valve cover meets the timing belt (see pic) . Do you think it could be the valve cover gasket? I did it 6mos ago, but maybe I didn't RTV well enough in the little corners. Also, I used Fel-Pro. Maybe that was a mistake.
Pictures under UV light:
There's also some oil below the timing belt. I'm thinking it's the same source above, but gravity pulls it down.
09-22-24, 12:41 PM
99 ES300 oil leak passenger side
