Car overheats with a/c on?
#1
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: LA
Posts: 398
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car overheats with a/c on?
i have a '98 sc300. i changed radiator hoses, flushed the system 3 times, changed the thermostat, changed the oil, radiator cap, etc. filled with the red coolant.
recently changed fan and fan clutch which was obviously bad since the new one pulls a lot more air. the old one could be stopped with your hand easily.
drove the car about 800 miles with no problem but it was cooler temps outside. now it runs hot in this 100 degree heat and air conditioning running. once i turn it off it goes back to normal as if i had turned on the heat. overheats on hwy and city driving.
guess next is radiator then water pump. no smoke/coolant in exhaust and coolant was clean as can be.
i read somewhere it could be a/c compressor but that doesnt sound right to me unless it was going out and slowing the fan down but it seems to be turning ok.
recently changed fan and fan clutch which was obviously bad since the new one pulls a lot more air. the old one could be stopped with your hand easily.
drove the car about 800 miles with no problem but it was cooler temps outside. now it runs hot in this 100 degree heat and air conditioning running. once i turn it off it goes back to normal as if i had turned on the heat. overheats on hwy and city driving.
guess next is radiator then water pump. no smoke/coolant in exhaust and coolant was clean as can be.
i read somewhere it could be a/c compressor but that doesnt sound right to me unless it was going out and slowing the fan down but it seems to be turning ok.
#5
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: LA
Posts: 398
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yes but its not losing coolant, there are no leaks and it overheats at idle with a/c on.
if not for those things id agree. no i never had it go more than 3/4s much less in the red.
also it never got hot a couple weeks ago when i drove it 10 hrs straight with a/c on.
rather confusing.
if not for those things id agree. no i never had it go more than 3/4s much less in the red.
also it never got hot a couple weeks ago when i drove it 10 hrs straight with a/c on.
rather confusing.
#6
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: LA
Posts: 398
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i was hoping it was the wp so i could go ahead and change all that out since i was going to have it done anyhow. now i gotta wait to find the cause of this first.
#7
Pole Position
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: md
Posts: 385
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
hope its not the dreadful headgasket, these motors(JZ) dont usually go out like that, but it can happen. and i know from an experienced friend that the heads on these motors run really hot, especially with more load i.e A/C. let the car run with the radiator cap off, A/C on and see if there are any bubbles, you may have air in the system
Trending Topics
#8
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
Also, depending on whether the WP is aftermarket or OEM, the blades inside, if aftermarket are plastic and not metal like OEM. If one of those plastic blades somehow broke or got damaged, then the waterpump would be running less efficiently/productively... thus when you are putting more strain on the car (AC running) the waterpump can't keep up... Just throwing possible options out there...
Jonny
Jonny
#9
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: LA
Posts: 398
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
hope its not the dreadful headgasket, these motors(JZ) dont usually go out like that, but it can happen. and i know from an experienced friend that the heads on these motors run really hot, especially with more load i.e A/C. let the car run with the radiator cap off, A/C on and see if there are any bubbles, you may have air in the system
Also, depending on whether the WP is aftermarket or OEM, the blades inside, if aftermarket are plastic and not metal like OEM. If one of those plastic blades somehow broke or got damaged, then the waterpump would be running less efficiently/productively... thus when you are putting more strain on the car (AC running) the waterpump can't keep up... Just throwing possible options out there...
Jonny
Jonny
running out of pieces though.
and i know if i bring it to my guy hes gonna keep it a damned week and have the radiator checked out. if i can find one for 100 bucks i just as soon change it altogether. he surely is going to charge me more just to check it.
#10
Keeper of the light
iTrader: (17)
When you kick the A/C on the engine is supposed to idle up, which will run the fan quicker (on cars with electric fans it just kicks the aux fan on). You need to pay attention to if the car is clearly and audibly idling up when you hear the A/C clutch engage. There is an idle up switch/relay for this issue.
#12
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: LA
Posts: 398
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
When you kick the A/C on the engine is supposed to idle up, which will run the fan quicker (on cars with electric fans it just kicks the aux fan on). You need to pay attention to if the car is clearly and audibly idling up when you hear the A/C clutch engage. There is an idle up switch/relay for this issue.
Huh? what aux fan.
#13
Pole Position
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: md
Posts: 385
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Tabaka is probably thinking of a MKIV supra, SCs dont have a second aux fan, well as far as i know, or maybe a sc400 does in which case wouldnt apply to magneti, but i know my car doesnt have a second aux fan
Last edited by RED95sc; 06-15-10 at 11:28 AM.