Hello hello all,

I'm newish here, and have "completed" the swap already so don't worry, I've crept around and read up on all of that stuff already [img]data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7[/img]

I had a '96 SC NA-T which I, unfortunately, demolished the motor in. I sold the shell but kept the important bits. The current '95 will be boosted at some point too, so after taking care of the leaky valve covers and timing service plus coilovers and a couple of other small things I have recently swapped the R154 from the old car in, all that's left is to ensure that everything is properly bled and that the clutch is engaging as it should, etc.

List of old parts (working from the last car):

• non-tripod R154 with mount
• driveshaft
• flywheel and ARP bolts
• ACT Stage 3 clutch w/ pressure plate
• Throwout bearing and all
• Clutch fork

List of new parts:

• Pilot Bearing
• Xcessive pedal w/ included Celica master cylinder and stainless line
• Aisin Slave cylinder
• new to me W58 shifter

THE ISSUE:
All is attached and connected. I have bled the system a bunch though I didn't bench bleed the master so this took ages. Made sure the master was working by routing a clear hose back to the reservoir. Had some help finally and saw that fluid coming out of the slave cylinder bleeder had no air bubbles in it, YET THE SLAVE WON'T MOVE!!!!!!

If I push against the clutch fork against the slave cylinder rod, then I can hear the fluid moving back up to the master. That's confirmed by a friend's eyes too lol clutch pedal still has zero feel. I've tried adjusting the pedal up and down, but no change. When I push against the clutch fork as I said, the pedal still doesn't move at all. It didn't come with a spring, but once I push it down it freely and fully decompresses on its own. What I haven't tried is starting the car cause my assumption at this point is that the clutch is disengaged meaning that the car should start and go into gear, but not spin any wheels or anything.

Any ideas or experience with something similar would reeeeeeally be appreciated! Plz help.

 

Try pumping the clutch pedal very rapidly a few times, warning this can make fluid spit out the top of the master.

 

Tried that, but no pressure seems to build :/. Anyone have a reference point of how far into that little service window on the side of the transmission I should see the slave cylinder rod stick out? As in, the clutch fork should be slightly towards the front of the car, the back, or in the center.

Thanks, everyone.

 

Good morning,
Here is my two cents worth and I know I will have some flak back but I am willing to dodge that. I have been a member of the BMW community for 30 plus years and have read a lot on BMW's in that period of time. The one thing they all say is NEVER pump the clutch pedal rapidly when bleeding, that leads to a blown seal. I have owned and still own several BMW's and all have been manual transmissions so I have changed out at least 7 or 8 in that time. I have always bled the slave cylinder with slow gentle pumps. Maybe you have a blown seal or a defective new slave cylinder. I do wish you luck on your problem.

 

Been a busy week away from the car. Gonna play around with it some more over the next few days, but I'm still grasping for straws here. Any ideas would be helpful!

 

While bleeding, it was pretty smooth and steady. I never went crazy on the pedal and I haven't noticed (yet) any darkness in the fluid or any leaks tho I'll be starting by going through the fittings and everything first.

 

Hydraulic clutch is about the most simple setup possible, pressure goes from the master to the slave. Did you pump the pedal rapidly with the bleeder open or closed? It has to be closed.

 

It was bled correctly, any pumping to build pressure was done once the bleeder was closed. I understand it wouldn't build pressure otherwise which is why I'm so stumped in the first place. I'll get my hands dirty again and see what I come up with.

Thanks for checking back in!

 

It happened to me, I bled the system fluid came out as normal, snugged the bleeder screw no clutch action. In anger I angrily pumped the pedal rapidly and it started working. Failing that, your master or possibly slave must be bad.

 

Yea, I just got a new master in. Gonna re-install. Could anyone recommend a solid bench bleeding and installation process to follow step by step to see if following that would help me out?

I've heard the angry pedal pumps can cause more damage to seals. The master I got in is a new unit from Xcessive for this kit and the new slave is the Aisin unit the factory would use.

 

I have a 95 manual and once, when I bleed, I saw no bubbles but I thought to make sure so I pumped a few more times and lo and behold, more bubbles followed. I had to refill the reservoir. It worked just fine after the second set of bubbles

 

If you have good fluid pressure coming out of the slave you can assume the master is OK. If it's dribbling out then the master is no good.

These are a PITA to bleed out, air gets trapped @ the top of the slave because the bleeder is not the highest point, it's on level. We use a vacuum bleeder or a reverse bleeder that forces the fluid backwards into the master. These tools I'm sure you don't have access to. Try running a piece of hose off the bleeder & hold it vertically higher than the slave, 6" should work. Then bleed the system while holding the hose higher than the slave, this should get the remaining air out. If you can get a long enough hose, run it back to the master cylinder reservoir. Then you can see when all the air is out of the system.

 

I wish it was just twice. I went through it a million times with no change or increase in clutch pedal feel. All but limp the whole time...

 

I'm using the Xcessive clutch pedal kit which comes with a early 90's mastery cylinder which has the line out on top. I can't see how any air would be trapped in there either...
Should I just gravity bleed then go back to the whole loosen bleeder, press and hold pedal, tighten bleeder, release pedal situation and hope that my new master cylinder is fine? I can't see how anything different could be done to get it to work...

 

Thats what i would do, get it to gravity bleed on its own then use 2 people to bleed it the old fashioned way you said.

there are vacuum bleeding kits too that suck all the air out.

i think you said you already bled the master with a line going back into the reservoir. Good now id let the slave gravity bleed for an hour or two just keep checking on the master reservoir. then 2 person bleed.