Somy6

IT WAS THE FREAKIN PLUGS. Just as master Kaiser said it would be. Now the car drives better than ever. Way better response that the Plug wires, Spark plugs, and Exhaust are on. Oh i also put an AEM wideband and i got my exhaust done on friday. I got 3inch pipe all the way back split into 2 2.5 pipes and welded to the canisters i had. I think it looks ok. The only thing happening now is the poppin noise that happens when the i am at WOT and at like 5K or so. The A/F looks good though. Its at 11 or 10.6. I am not sure if i need another tune after the new spark plugs, exhaust and the pipe that i changed infront of the turbo or what??

John and Chris. I owe you guys for helping me fix my car. I can finally take it out tonight. Its not over yet though, i will let you guys know tom if i have problems again

Kaiser

iTrader: (1)

I'm just not sure if the popping noise is the spark being blown out or detonation. 9psi on Arizona pump gas may be too high on the stock head gasket. Throw in 2 gallons or so of 101 unleaded from the station at 44th street and Chandler. They have it at the pump. If the popping goes away, your timing is too advanced for that amount of boost. If it persists, you may need to close the gap a little more.

SQuester

I'm curious to see the cylinder 1 plug after a thousand miles or so.. It was the only one that was completely carbonized black.. The other five were a nice caramel color..

Hey Kaiser, can you check out this thread for me? Hopefully you might know the answer to my question.. It's IS300 and OBD-II specific though..

http://my.is/forums/f114/oxygen-sens...s-what-354628/

Somy6

F***ing great. Not even one night with my damn SC. I went home and hooked up a vacuum hose to the Boost gauge cause we didnt have enough hose at Johns. Go drive the car all happy and what not then to find out that its back to how it was before. NO BOOST. I obviously got a leak somewhere that keeps poppin up when it pleases and i am sick of that leak crap. So tom i guess i will make sure that the hose is tight from the T fitting to the gauge. Damn one night with the SC, thats all i want.

Kaiser

iTrader: (1)

I don't think you can completely disconnect an O2 without throwing a code. If the heater circuit in the O2 does not return a positive signal to the ECU on start up it will likely throw a code. The best thing to do is to have a new bung welded in about 8 inches from the turbo. You will also get a more accurate reading of the air fuel. The heat of the exhaust pipe will cause the fuel to continue to burn as it heads out the exhaust.

SQuester

Hmmn..


From more reading on the subject, the absence of the B1S2 and B2S2 will throw a code, but they don't alter the drivability..

For the meantime, I'm going to remove the B2S1 from the top of the downpipe and use that spot for the wideband(about 5-6" from the turbine). Then I'll just unhook the B1S2 connector and reconnect it to the B2S1 connector since it has a longer wire.. If I'm not mistaken the sensors will interchange as the universal replacement parts all have the same part numbers.


I just found another diagram allowing you to tap the heater and signal wires from B1S1 and B2S1, to ultimately run one oxygen sensor.. Tapping all four heater wires to the single sensor that you use has been done, so I think I'm good to go..

I need to pick up a code scanner though..

SQuester

WTF?

Did it start doing it when the motor was nice and hot? If so, the fuel pump may be starting to die.

Or does it not matter(hot/cold)?

Somy6

No i was tired so i waited till it cooled down. I made sure today that i have no leaks what so ever. There just cant be leaks anywhere. Then i went and bought me a MAF cleaner cause that was the reason my car was idleing like crap. Sprayed it and waited it for it to dry. Put it back and reset the ecu then BAM. The car wont start. I need a MAF now cause mine is not even working anymore. You guys got one layin around that i can take off your hands anyone??