I love the Daizen Bushings!!
#16
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Doing the full rears didn't add any noticeable noice in my case. If you do a full install, then I'd guess that 75 or 80% of the noise is comming from the front uppers, while 80 - 85% of the improved handling comes from the lowers, so technically, I don't think that the front uppers do much more than add noise, and I wouldn't suggest them.
And, yes, you can use the Supra arms. I believe they are the same exact thing as the Lexus arms, although I remember reading somewhere that the sway-bar attachment is different somehow..?? Can someone confirm?
And, yes, you can use the Supra arms. I believe they are the same exact thing as the Lexus arms, although I remember reading somewhere that the sway-bar attachment is different somehow..?? Can someone confirm?
#19
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The Supra lower control arms are a direct replacement indeed,however they are different from the SC ones in two ways; they only cost $190 per side instead of over $400, and they come with much firmer bushings installed in them,since the Supra came with much larger wheels/tires than the SC.
#20
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Join Date: Dec 2003
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Just read this post as I'm in need of replacing lower control arm bushings in 1993 SC400. I'm thinking just to order the SUPRA control arms, but what year would I order and would they fit on the 93 SC400 with no problems? It's either that or replace the bushings and keep the control arms. Why would I want to replace the control arms anyway? Do they get bent?
#22
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I just got my front Daizen bushing Kit and sway bar bushings but havent tackled the job yet. Now I am nervous about installing them. I was wondering for one how much time it really takes to do the front install and for those that have the full front kit what do you run for shocks and springs and would that makea difference in the ride also.
#23
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I'm working on it right now. It seems that my driver's lower control arm is ok, and the upper control arms look ok too. That means I'll just do the lower control arms. So far it's taken me 2 days (well.... around 8 hours) and I've just about finished sanding one control arm. Haha.....
But seriously, this project is taking longer than I expected. I bought a small propane torch, and it takes about 10 minutes or so to get the majority of the rubber off. The little bit of rubber that is left on the control arm is a PITA to take off. Sanding took me about 30 minutes per socket (there's 2 on the control arm).
This is taking me forever because I wasn't prepared with all the tools required. I'll post some pics and what tools I used later. I also took it very slow to make sure I wasn't screwing things up. The next control arm should be a breeze- 4 hours.
But seriously, this project is taking longer than I expected. I bought a small propane torch, and it takes about 10 minutes or so to get the majority of the rubber off. The little bit of rubber that is left on the control arm is a PITA to take off. Sanding took me about 30 minutes per socket (there's 2 on the control arm).
This is taking me forever because I wasn't prepared with all the tools required. I'll post some pics and what tools I used later. I also took it very slow to make sure I wasn't screwing things up. The next control arm should be a breeze- 4 hours.
![Egads!](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/pat.gif)
Last edited by Buttercup; 12-16-03 at 06:00 PM.
#24
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Some suggestions...
Goto your hardware store, and get the smallest little wire-wheels for your drill (Brass is best) and after cooking out the buschings, run the flame around inside the empty hole a bit to turn the leftover bits o' rubber into powder, and then you can easily use the wire-wheel to do a quicky cleanup.
I rented a ball-joint separator kit from the local checker auto parts store, with 5 tools in one kit, and it was very good to help remove the entire a-arms from the car. Then use a large, heavy vice to hold the whole unit while cooking or prying, or whatever.
I would guess that is correct that it is 5 to 10 minutes of cooking to get the busching to eject itself from the a-arm (Its really cool... Keep heating it, all around the outside edges, till the busching actually crawls out of the a-arm by itself.. I'd catch it on the shaft of a screwdriver, to keep it from bouncing around the garage.)
It took about 20 minutes to remove arms from the car, then probably an hour each arm to remove, the old buschings, and install the new ones.
Goto your hardware store, and get the smallest little wire-wheels for your drill (Brass is best) and after cooking out the buschings, run the flame around inside the empty hole a bit to turn the leftover bits o' rubber into powder, and then you can easily use the wire-wheel to do a quicky cleanup.
I rented a ball-joint separator kit from the local checker auto parts store, with 5 tools in one kit, and it was very good to help remove the entire a-arms from the car. Then use a large, heavy vice to hold the whole unit while cooking or prying, or whatever.
I would guess that is correct that it is 5 to 10 minutes of cooking to get the busching to eject itself from the a-arm (Its really cool... Keep heating it, all around the outside edges, till the busching actually crawls out of the a-arm by itself.. I'd catch it on the shaft of a screwdriver, to keep it from bouncing around the garage.)
It took about 20 minutes to remove arms from the car, then probably an hour each arm to remove, the old buschings, and install the new ones.
#25
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The bushing greatly improve the handling but then you get the road noise and the bumps will beat you to death. That is the sucky part, then after a while they start to squeak. has anyone been able to fix the squeaking from the bushings. I heard you can relub them and that fixes it. Has anyone done this and how hard is it. Also what are the detaild specs on the these Supra Arms and bushings if those give the tight ride minus the bumbs and road noise then i want those. What year and model ar they.
#29
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Originally posted by meddle
Yes, I would also like to know more about the Supra lower control arm option. If they are an easy fit, then I think I may go that route instead.
Yes, I would also like to know more about the Supra lower control arm option. If they are an easy fit, then I think I may go that route instead.
Which ever one works the best and offeres the best ride for an SC
#30
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It's just a real bummer to have to tear it all apart again when you discover that the balljoints are worn out too.
You can squeeze the balljoints vertically with a large pair of Channel-Locks and if any movement comes from doing that;they're worn.
You can squeeze the balljoints vertically with a large pair of Channel-Locks and if any movement comes from doing that;they're worn.