I love the Daizen Bushings!!
#31
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anybody know were to get some stock bushings or just some control arms with stock bushings. Because i can't take this Daizen crap. Damn car rides so hard i am starting to hear rattles from the car because it is hitting bumps so hard and stuff is shaking loose. I want front and rear. thanks for any help
#33
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Originally posted by tarq3
anybody know were to get some stock bushings or just some control arms with stock bushings. Because i can't take this Daizen crap. Damn car rides so hard i am starting to hear rattles from the car because it is hitting bumps so hard and stuff is shaking loose. I want front and rear. thanks for any help
anybody know were to get some stock bushings or just some control arms with stock bushings. Because i can't take this Daizen crap. Damn car rides so hard i am starting to hear rattles from the car because it is hitting bumps so hard and stuff is shaking loose. I want front and rear. thanks for any help
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#34
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Originally posted by siniquezu
comfort or performance
comfort or performance
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#37
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But, did you do the front uppers and lowers, or just the lowers? When I did the lowers, front and back, I went for a ride, and the steering response was much improved, with only a very little bit of additional road noise.
Then, the next day, I did the uppers, and that is when the bumps and road noise became bad. So, I'm going to swap the uppers for the uppers on my Supra, since I'm going to sell the Supra after it dyno's over 650hp, and road noise won't matter in that car anyways.
Then, the next day, I did the uppers, and that is when the bumps and road noise became bad. So, I'm going to swap the uppers for the uppers on my Supra, since I'm going to sell the Supra after it dyno's over 650hp, and road noise won't matter in that car anyways.
#38
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i am going to swap out my uppers...will i lose a little-if any performance?
how about the rears?... should i just do the lowers? or will i lose better performance if i don't do the uppers? one more thing... i also have tein cs coilovers coming...if i just do daizen lower bushings with the coilovers, my ride quality shouldn't really suffer right?
how about the rears?... should i just do the lowers? or will i lose better performance if i don't do the uppers? one more thing... i also have tein cs coilovers coming...if i just do daizen lower bushings with the coilovers, my ride quality shouldn't really suffer right?
Last edited by nextlevelcoupe; 12-19-03 at 03:46 PM.
#39
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You should not notice any loss of handling with stock uppers. I'd imagine if you were racing, on the cutting edge all the time, you would be able to tell the difference, but since the vast majority of the force from cornering causes the lower buschings to want to scrunch, and the uppers pretty much just keep the wheel lined up vertically, then I'd say the uppers are not needed.
I have a Supra TT suspension on mine also, which also improved handling, so I'd suspect that any performance shocks/springs would just get more benefit from the lowers being replaced.
Look at it this way. If you look at the geometry of the suspension, with the car's weight on the suspension, the lower control arms are directly horizontal to the buschings. That means that when you hit a bump, the force is going up and down, not sideways into those bushings, so road noise is primarily thrown UP. When cornering, the force is pushing the bottom of the tire in towards the car, or pulling it out away from the car, thereby applying that side-to side force, so the stiffer bushings are less likely to compress, holding the alignment true, improving steering response.
On the other hand, when you do hit a bump, the wheel is forced up, and since it is pivoting on the lower bushings, that force is thrown directly at the upper control arms, and bushings, so that is why you get more road noise with the harder compound in the daizen busching.
So, re-cap. Lowers do I'd guess 85% of the cornering improvement, with maby 15% of the road noise. The uppers are not needed for performance, and add a BUNCH of the noise, so I'd say don't do it unless you are gonna auto-x your Lexus.
(The views above are my thoughts on it, with no serious scientific testing, so apply this with some salt.)
I have a Supra TT suspension on mine also, which also improved handling, so I'd suspect that any performance shocks/springs would just get more benefit from the lowers being replaced.
Look at it this way. If you look at the geometry of the suspension, with the car's weight on the suspension, the lower control arms are directly horizontal to the buschings. That means that when you hit a bump, the force is going up and down, not sideways into those bushings, so road noise is primarily thrown UP. When cornering, the force is pushing the bottom of the tire in towards the car, or pulling it out away from the car, thereby applying that side-to side force, so the stiffer bushings are less likely to compress, holding the alignment true, improving steering response.
On the other hand, when you do hit a bump, the wheel is forced up, and since it is pivoting on the lower bushings, that force is thrown directly at the upper control arms, and bushings, so that is why you get more road noise with the harder compound in the daizen busching.
So, re-cap. Lowers do I'd guess 85% of the cornering improvement, with maby 15% of the road noise. The uppers are not needed for performance, and add a BUNCH of the noise, so I'd say don't do it unless you are gonna auto-x your Lexus.
(The views above are my thoughts on it, with no serious scientific testing, so apply this with some salt.)
#40
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Originally posted by 95sc300t
But, did you do the front uppers and lowers, or just the lowers? When I did the lowers, front and back, I went for a ride, and the steering response was much improved, with only a very little bit of additional road noise.
Then, the next day, I did the uppers, and that is when the bumps and road noise became bad. So, I'm going to swap the uppers for the uppers on my Supra, since I'm going to sell the Supra after it dyno's over 650hp, and road noise won't matter in that car anyways.
But, did you do the front uppers and lowers, or just the lowers? When I did the lowers, front and back, I went for a ride, and the steering response was much improved, with only a very little bit of additional road noise.
Then, the next day, I did the uppers, and that is when the bumps and road noise became bad. So, I'm going to swap the uppers for the uppers on my Supra, since I'm going to sell the Supra after it dyno's over 650hp, and road noise won't matter in that car anyways.
I had only done my lowers the uppers were stock
#42
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A couple things could cause the noise/harshness; if the alignment is such that the tires are toed in, or out much more than they need to be, that'll make for a rough ride over expansion joints,small iregularities; or if the balljoints are trashed, it'll rumble all the time like really rough asphalt will do on any other car. The harder bushings would just make the ride worse in either case.
The factory(SC,Supra) control arms are made with a softer bushing in the rear pivot to help with harshness, the supra forward ones are probably just as stiff as the poly,maybe stiffer,but the rear ones are softer.
The Supra control arms are going to be about 60% as stiff as with the poly bushings(only comparing lower to lower,like you have,and as I've experienced) compared to stock SC parts.
The factory(SC,Supra) control arms are made with a softer bushing in the rear pivot to help with harshness, the supra forward ones are probably just as stiff as the poly,maybe stiffer,but the rear ones are softer.
The Supra control arms are going to be about 60% as stiff as with the poly bushings(only comparing lower to lower,like you have,and as I've experienced) compared to stock SC parts.
#44
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You can do it, BUT, the rear uppers can be a major pain in the ***. Once I figured out the trick to getting the nuts held in place back there, it wasn't too bad, but otherwise, you could spend hours just TRYING to get the damn nut on the back of the bolt..
I used a really long thin screwdriver, with some electrical tape wraped around the end, going through the side-thingy of the nut.
It will make more sense when you go to do it.
I used a really long thin screwdriver, with some electrical tape wraped around the end, going through the side-thingy of the nut.
It will make more sense when you go to do it.