Ok, so I'm lowered on H&R springs (1.4" front/1.3" rear) with Gas-adjust KYBs currently with 19" Genesis Track R wheels (19x8) with 235/35/19 tires (fronts only). A bit fat of a tire on these wheels, but not horrible. Enjoying the extra grip and the lessening effect of pushing (understeer) into the corners.

To the topic...RCAs (roll center adjusters). I purchased the below RCA kit, and I have to say these components are made very well and this post have nothing to do with the quality of these items.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/27553958363...AAAOSwNK1h-Em8

My concern and lack of understanding boils down to the fact that after attempting to remove my bump-steer effect by installing these RCAs and to fix my suspension geometry, I immediately noticed that my front end had dropped ANOTHER ~1.4". My 235 tires were now slightly rubbing the one to two o'clock portion of my already rolled fenders AND barely touching the plastic portion of the front bumper cover near where it attaches to the fender. All of this while turning slowly in my neighborhood with zero weigh transfer. The eBay seller asked me what my amount of drop was, and he shipped me the corresponding RCAs to counter that. While during my short drive at speed without any sizeable turns to the left or right, I could immediately tell an improvement and loss of bump-steer.

So I understand it, ALL RCAs actually provide an additional drop in the height of the installed RCA OR it is just how our front suspension is designed that it naturally will drop by the height of the installed RCAs?

I'm back to factory currently, as I cannot risk tire rub at speed nor having the tire eat through my already compromised front bumper cover attachment area. I LOVE my corners, so I'd be heavily risking major damages if the RCAs were left installed.

Comments/thoughts?

 

Visualizing the suspension at stock ride height going through compression and rebound motions. Lowering it, visualize that, then effectively displacing the lower control arm another inch plus, there is a lot going on there. Any chance you know the camber before and after?
Doesn't this place the outer tie rod ball joint close to the wheel?

In the ideal world, you move the bearing flange up the spindle retaining full suspension travel and proper geometry. Unable to do that at an affordable rate, you move the rack and pinion up towards the oil pan which also is not an option.
I personally couldn't place my life on those bolts and spacers, but thats just me. And I could be wrong but imo it appears simply adding those spacers also lowers the car. Which if true, adjust your coils to get the clearance you need.

 

Yeah, I can visualize it after the fact; but didn't know that I had to before purchasing. LOL! But essentially lowering the LCA by the amount of the height of the spacer via the lower ball joint will then pull the shock/spring assembly lower, thus lowering it the additional ~1.4".

I wish I had coilovers still, because this would be a non-issue. I wouldn't mind using these spacers really; they're well designed with a recess for the ball joint alignment dowels and an integrated alignment dowel to fit into the hub/spindle. Outer housing of think aluminum, while the inner part is steel. Plus the supplied longer bolts to replace the factory ones are Grade 8. The spacers wouldn't bother me. The being so low that I'd rub on the fender and bumper everywhere is what got me.

 

i rub on my wheel liner n fender every day. Makes me cringe every time

 

My front wheel well liners have been removed for a while now. So any rubbing I have now is rubber on metal...no bueno! But after back to stock, lowered geometry without the RCAs, no rubbing issues...though bump-steer is still obviously prevalent.