AME_VIP

iTrader: (2)

I had a similiar experience when installing coils

Rears - easy just remove upper nuts and lower bolt and pry down on the hub

Front - remove fender liner and (driver side washer bottle), remove upper nuts and lower bolt. Remove the HUGE upper control arm bolt. Hold brake caliper to the car with some wire or coat hanger. Pry down and pull it out. I couldn't get the sway bar end links off so I worked around them. No brake caliper removing required.

no2faber

why is this not a sticky yet

97Soarer

iTrader: (2)

Are new pillowmounts/strut hats required when you install supra struts? Can you re-use the SC pillowmounts on supra struts?

I will be installing eibach springs and tokico illumina struts for the supra on my SC this weekend. I'm hoping I can reuse the pillowmounts.

Help is appreciated. Thanks!

rscott

you can reuse them. if you get a complete supra setup it will bolt right in.

97Soarer

iTrader: (2)

Great, thanks for the info! I can't wait to get the new springs n struts installed. I was driving the car late tonight at great speeds and the car bounced around a lot, too gittery for my liking. Hope it stays more planted after this.

97Soarer

iTrader: (2)

Few questions during install...

- Removing the washer fluid container on the driver side required?
- I noticed in some right up, removing the brake caliper wasn't required, is that correct?
- Do the front and rear sway bars need to be unbolted off?


Basically I want to avoid removing as many bolts as possible. I'm assuming all these parts were removed for easier access to the struts?

rscott

washer fluid container: if its your first time then yes you do. the long bolt will hit it when you try to remove it from the upper A arm. When you re install it put it in the other way (from tright to left) so that if ever you need to do any more work you dont need to pull it off again

calipers: some people say its not necessary but it makes things ALOT easier in terms of pulling out the strut. it takes only 2 bolts. i tried doing the install a little while ago without removing the calipers and while its doable, i think i spent more time trying to wiggle jiggle it out than it takes to remove and reinstall the calipers/rotors (mainly in the rear).

sway bars: once again this is personal preference. if you have triceps of steel then no but for one bolt per side its definitely worth the effort. not the whole sway bar needs to be unbolted. just one of the endlink nuts.

97Soarer

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, I'll do so as advised. It's just a pain to remove some bolts - mainly cause they probably haven't been touched in a while and are rusted.

When you remove the brake calipers, do the pistons come in together? I remebering doing brake changes that was the biggest pain, trying to push the piston back into place so it slides onto the rotors again.

Speaking of sways, do the original sways fit onto Supra MKIV struts? I don't see why not since they don't bolt onto them; the sway is removed just to get the strut out correct?

rscott

wd-40 and a breaker bar =)

pistons come in together? just compress them while theyre still off the car. it makes life alot easier but put some rags down by the brake line. the fluid will spray out.

the sways dont bolt to the strut directly so there will be no issues.

97Soarer

iTrader: (2)

How do I tell which springs are meant for the front and back? Silly question I know, but I just want to make sure.

ummagawd

iTrader: (1)

usually... the front coils are thicker than the rear

97Soarer

iTrader: (2)

Ok everyone, I just called Eibach. Surprisingly there was a live individual to talk to. Here is how you tell which are fronts and rears.

If you look at the springs imprinted letters, the numbers ending in 001 are always the front. The number ending in 002 are the rear. Sounds logical enough. I wonder why Eibach doesn't include a small info card stating that.

So I'll be darned, it was installed wrong. Sigh, guess I'll time how fast the install can be done the second time around. Take this knowledge and learn from my mistake.

reamemiya

iTrader: (1)

We need these pics back up.
Have coilovers just sitting here. Threw in my turbo without hesitation, but for some reason i'm lagging it with these coilovers.

kietlander

its easy. just jump in and do it.

VinnyQH

iTrader: (2)

if you are going to do scoilovers i would suggest a different way of putting them in. what i did for mine and on the front coilovers losen the 19mm bolt and nut that is at the bottom of the strut, and then with a little bit of help push the strut toward the engine bay (it will only move a couple of mm).

after that you would take the swaybar end link off, that on is a 14 mm bolt, then remove it fomr the sway bar.

when you are done with that, push the strut towards the engine bay (it will only move a couple of mm) and then there are2 vertical bolts. Both of them are 14 mm. remove those, and it's a bracket that holds the lower control amr to the hub.

You would kinda winggle it out of there, when it's out, take the top three bolts off. the ones in the engine bay. this is where it kinda gets a little tricky, you gotta have someone stand on the brake cliper and put pressure there. you can eventually wiggle it out of there.

At this point do both sides so it doesn't put a lot of stress on the sway bar.

Now putting in the coilover, put in the bracket that you took off with the 2 14mm bolts.

at least for ones that have an adjustable height from the bottom sleeve, i bottomed out my coilover (jic magic) put in the coilover bolted it up in the top under the hood. Then when it was in place, i raised up the coilover by 5 finger widths.

the part will need a pry bar, use the pry bar to get the botom of the strut to line up with where it has to bolt in. Not too tough

reconnect the sway bar, and make sure you do the other side, don't put on the wheels till both sides are done.