Why is bushings labor so much
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I've done my research on bushings and have settled on the Daizen poly set. Now, I've been reading and for example this thread gives a price around $500 just for the install, while this thread says it's only $88 to press in the bushing, with even lower prices further down on the page. What gives?? I know the second link is only LCA, but do UCA take THAT much longer, to indicate a price jump of $400? It just seems kind of ridiculous to me that's all.
James
James
#2
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James, I have no experience with the upper control arms. I was only recently concerned with the lower control arms as they were making that clanky sound. A machine shop near me will charge $5 to press in bushings, but keep in mind that's after I've removed the lower control arm already and walked into the shop with the arms in my hand. They don't charge extra to torch out the old bushes because they have to do that before they press in the new ones anyway. That's where my price comes from. Now if you roll your car up to a shop and ask them to remove the lca's for you and remove old bushes and install new ones you will be looking at upwards of $500, but your car should be fixed in a day, that's the benefit. I try to minimize my labor costs by doing most of the work with a buddy I know. And I do it on weekends so that if in the event we can't finish the job in a day's time I'm not out of the car during the work week.
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Originally posted by jet864
I've done my research on bushings and have settled on the Daizen poly set. Now, I've been reading and for example this thread gives a price around $500 just for the install, while this thread says it's only $88 to press in the bushing, with even lower prices further down on the page. What gives?? I know the second link is only LCA, but do UCA take THAT much longer, to indicate a price jump of $400? It just seems kind of ridiculous to me that's all.
James
I've done my research on bushings and have settled on the Daizen poly set. Now, I've been reading and for example this thread gives a price around $500 just for the install, while this thread says it's only $88 to press in the bushing, with even lower prices further down on the page. What gives?? I know the second link is only LCA, but do UCA take THAT much longer, to indicate a price jump of $400? It just seems kind of ridiculous to me that's all.
James
Differences are in rate between the shops, from alround $100 at lex dealer to as low as $35 in small indy shops in my area.
Another factor is gray market, when work is done off the books, Those prices are sometimes given next to the legitimate market prices w/o explanation, which is kinda unfair to to people w/o hookup...
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Originally posted by mikeloc24
James, I have no experience with the upper control arms. I was only recently concerned with the lower control arms as they were making that clanky sound. A machine shop near me will charge $5 to press in bushings, but keep in mind that's after I've removed the lower control arm already and walked into the shop with the arms in my hand. They don't charge extra to torch out the old bushes because they have to do that before they press in the new ones anyway. That's where my price comes from. Now if you roll your car up to a shop and ask them to remove the lca's for you and remove old bushes and install new ones you will be looking at upwards of $500, but your car should be fixed in a day, that's the benefit. I try to minimize my labor costs by doing most of the work with a buddy I know. And I do it on weekends so that if in the event we can't finish the job in a day's time I'm not out of the car during the work week.
James, I have no experience with the upper control arms. I was only recently concerned with the lower control arms as they were making that clanky sound. A machine shop near me will charge $5 to press in bushings, but keep in mind that's after I've removed the lower control arm already and walked into the shop with the arms in my hand. They don't charge extra to torch out the old bushes because they have to do that before they press in the new ones anyway. That's where my price comes from. Now if you roll your car up to a shop and ask them to remove the lca's for you and remove old bushes and install new ones you will be looking at upwards of $500, but your car should be fixed in a day, that's the benefit. I try to minimize my labor costs by doing most of the work with a buddy I know. And I do it on weekends so that if in the event we can't finish the job in a day's time I'm not out of the car during the work week.
Here's something I found while doing my struts which freaked me the hell out. This, where the UCA meets the "hub" I guess you would say, is literally melting. It's all gummy and sticky. I'm gonna have him tell me what to do about this too.
These are just pics of the front, but it's like this front and rear on the right side only. Freakin' weird if you ask me.
James
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Originally posted by jet864
Here's something I found while doing my struts which freaked me the hell out. This, where the UCA meets the "hub" I guess you would say, is literally melting. It's all gummy and sticky. I'm gonna have him tell me what to do about this too.
Here's something I found while doing my struts which freaked me the hell out. This, where the UCA meets the "hub" I guess you would say, is literally melting. It's all gummy and sticky. I'm gonna have him tell me what to do about this too.
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From what I've heard though, it's usually these following bushes that usually get replaced:
- Front LCA bushes
- Steering rack bushes
- Rear UCA and LCA bushes
I guess the front UCA's usually don't have too much movement?
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Jose
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The job is expensive because it's a b.itch. That of course depends on how many bushings you replace. I just completed the ENTIRE car (front and rear, top and a bottom) with Daizen's full line.
It was not fun. There's a LOT to remove. In my case the rear adjustment bolts were seized and there was NO WAY they were coming out. They laughed at my 10 pound sledge. This required cutting the bolts out and replacing with (pricey) new dealer hardware.
Getting everything back together is the easy part. It's the disassembly that blows. Especially when some parts refuse to come off. It's labor intensive and takes some time so it won't be cheap no matter how you slice it. For the full job that is. Front LCA is a piece of cake. The rear just sucks.
OH and as for that goop... Take a wire brush and some heavy-duty solvent. It comes off and reveals a pretty aluminum cap under it. Oh and SCRUB THOSE ARMS. They shine real bright when cleaned.
It was not fun. There's a LOT to remove. In my case the rear adjustment bolts were seized and there was NO WAY they were coming out. They laughed at my 10 pound sledge. This required cutting the bolts out and replacing with (pricey) new dealer hardware.
Getting everything back together is the easy part. It's the disassembly that blows. Especially when some parts refuse to come off. It's labor intensive and takes some time so it won't be cheap no matter how you slice it. For the full job that is. Front LCA is a piece of cake. The rear just sucks.
OH and as for that goop... Take a wire brush and some heavy-duty solvent. It comes off and reveals a pretty aluminum cap under it. Oh and SCRUB THOSE ARMS. They shine real bright when cleaned.
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Originally posted by CleanSC
The job is expensive because it's a b.itch. That of course depends on how many bushings you replace. I just completed the ENTIRE car (front and rear, top and a bottom) with Daizen's full line.
It was not fun. There's a LOT to remove. In my case the rear adjustment bolts were seized and there was NO WAY they were coming out. They laughed at my 10 pound sledge. This required cutting the bolts out and replacing with (pricey) new dealer hardware.
Getting everything back together is the easy part. It's the disassembly that blows. Especially when some parts refuse to come off. It's labor intensive and takes some time so it won't be cheap no matter how you slice it. For the full job that is. Front LCA is a piece of cake. The rear just sucks.
OH and as for that goop... Take a wire brush and some heavy-duty solvent. It comes off and reveals a pretty aluminum cap under it. Oh and SCRUB THOSE ARMS. They shine real bright when cleaned.
The job is expensive because it's a b.itch. That of course depends on how many bushings you replace. I just completed the ENTIRE car (front and rear, top and a bottom) with Daizen's full line.
It was not fun. There's a LOT to remove. In my case the rear adjustment bolts were seized and there was NO WAY they were coming out. They laughed at my 10 pound sledge. This required cutting the bolts out and replacing with (pricey) new dealer hardware.
Getting everything back together is the easy part. It's the disassembly that blows. Especially when some parts refuse to come off. It's labor intensive and takes some time so it won't be cheap no matter how you slice it. For the full job that is. Front LCA is a piece of cake. The rear just sucks.
OH and as for that goop... Take a wire brush and some heavy-duty solvent. It comes off and reveals a pretty aluminum cap under it. Oh and SCRUB THOSE ARMS. They shine real bright when cleaned.
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James
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Originally posted by jet864
I was mainly concerned about the black goo being some sort of lubricant for the ball joint, and thinking they might be shot if some of it leaked out, but if you're sure I can just wire brush it off, that helps a lot.
James
I was mainly concerned about the black goo being some sort of lubricant for the ball joint, and thinking they might be shot if some of it leaked out, but if you're sure I can just wire brush it off, that helps a lot.
James
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Oh man, no, the white stuff is just wheel polish, and I've been to lazy to clean it off. On the pics you can see on the ball joints where it looks like it's melting. That's the part I'm worried about.
Sorry.
James
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James
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Originally posted by CleanSC
The job is expensive because it's a b.itch. That of course depends on how many bushings you replace.
The job is expensive because it's a b.itch. That of course depends on how many bushings you replace.
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Originally posted by Khaos
How much should one expect to pay to have the Daizen camber kit installed (taking into account that new springs and struts are also being installed at the same time)?
How much should one expect to pay to have the Daizen camber kit installed (taking into account that new springs and struts are also being installed at the same time)?
These are real easy. 20 minutes an arm max. You have to half-remove these to remove the shocks anyway so just take off the ball joint on the hub and they are free.
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Originally posted by mteele
Hey CleanSC, want to make some money this weekend and install my set of Daizen bushings, along with springs/shocks?
Hey CleanSC, want to make some money this weekend and install my set of Daizen bushings, along with springs/shocks?
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If you have a press you can do it yourself real easy. (camber kit only)