Order of purchase: improved handling.
#1
Order of purchase: improved handling.
What with all the available improvements we can buy, I was wondering what the concensus is about which parts to buy first.
ie. Springs/coilovers, front strut bar, rear strut bar (the trunk one), front under body kit, 6 link...(that's in the back right?, swaybars.....
What order does one purchase these in?!?! (if you know prices, it will help me and future searchers)
Thanks,
BA
ie. Springs/coilovers, front strut bar, rear strut bar (the trunk one), front under body kit, 6 link...(that's in the back right?, swaybars.....
What order does one purchase these in?!?! (if you know prices, it will help me and future searchers)
Thanks,
BA
#2
The One
iTrader: (3)
Either sways and shock-springs/coilovers should be first. If you are OK with the stock ride and want to improve cornering/side-to-side, go sways. Otherwise, s-s/coilovers should be first. These will result in better performance, float elimination, and lowered stance. Somewhere in here, I'd put the wheels upgrade. Lower profile/performance tires with more contact patch and stiffer feel (less rubber, more metal) will contribute to handling, feedback, and braking improvements. No matter what order, if handling is the goal, these three should be first before the additional braces. Even with only these three, you are going to have a handful trying to choose from the various s-s, coilovers, wheels, tires, and sways.
After this, I think the rest depends on how you like the new setup in tems of handling and ride quality. Whatever you do, I think you should "box" the car as a unit. This means that if you do the front STB, you should balance it out with the rear STB. If you put on the front LCB, the rear LCB should go on at the same time. The 6-link is nice if you want that fine tuning. Also, somewhere in here, the L-Tuned steering ECU would be a nice touch.
I'm sure different people will have a different opinion or experience. This is just my .02.
After this, I think the rest depends on how you like the new setup in tems of handling and ride quality. Whatever you do, I think you should "box" the car as a unit. This means that if you do the front STB, you should balance it out with the rear STB. If you put on the front LCB, the rear LCB should go on at the same time. The 6-link is nice if you want that fine tuning. Also, somewhere in here, the L-Tuned steering ECU would be a nice touch.
I'm sure different people will have a different opinion or experience. This is just my .02.
#3
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (20)
A springs/shocks or coilovers upgrade will make the largest difference, IMHO. Springs/shocks could run from $500 and up, and coilovers may cost $1200. Install will run $300-500 probably. I had L-Tuned springs/shocks for a couple of years and loved them. Still comfortable but a major improvement over stock floaty setup. I went to Tein Flex coilovers recently and loved the improvement from L-Tuned! I also love the EDFC control unit inside the car that lets me set the ride stiffness by pressing a button!
After that, sway bars make the next biggest difference. By lessening body roll a lot, steering response improves. TRD racing blues are popular (what I have) and Daizens are popular too (less stiff than TRD blues).
Beyond that, braces and bars all help stiffen up the chassis to elmiinate body flex. I knew nothing about this before I got my GS, but it really works. Front strut tower brace (STB), front lower chassis brace (LCB) replacement (the car does have a stock one), and rear STB and LCB all help. At minimum do the front STB. Front STB's range from $90-$290! An RVM $90 one is fine. The RMM one $290 is much flashier with polished stainless center bar. The TRD one is in between in price.
After that, sway bars make the next biggest difference. By lessening body roll a lot, steering response improves. TRD racing blues are popular (what I have) and Daizens are popular too (less stiff than TRD blues).
Beyond that, braces and bars all help stiffen up the chassis to elmiinate body flex. I knew nothing about this before I got my GS, but it really works. Front strut tower brace (STB), front lower chassis brace (LCB) replacement (the car does have a stock one), and rear STB and LCB all help. At minimum do the front STB. Front STB's range from $90-$290! An RVM $90 one is fine. The RMM one $290 is much flashier with polished stainless center bar. The TRD one is in between in price.
#5
The One
iTrader: (3)
Originally posted by morris
if the Daizens are softer than the TRD I wouldnt want them.
if the Daizens are softer than the TRD I wouldnt want them.
#6
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (20)
Originally posted by Neo
They are softer ride, not handling. If you have the TRDs for handling and like the ride quality, then no need to spend more. If you like the handling but not the ride quality, then get the Daizens. I had the TRDs. Love the handling. Not fond of the stiff ride. Daizens took care of the latter while retaining the former.
They are softer ride, not handling. If you have the TRDs for handling and like the ride quality, then no need to spend more. If you like the handling but not the ride quality, then get the Daizens. I had the TRDs. Love the handling. Not fond of the stiff ride. Daizens took care of the latter while retaining the former.
BUT, I think the Daizens are a great product, and a MASSIVE improvement over stock.
#7
The One
iTrader: (3)
Originally posted by bitkahuna
you can switch from Tein Flex and Tein CS and get a cushier ride and the same handling. Not possible.
BUT, I think the Daizens are a great product, and a MASSIVE improvement over stock.
you can switch from Tein Flex and Tein CS and get a cushier ride and the same handling. Not possible.
BUT, I think the Daizens are a great product, and a MASSIVE improvement over stock.
Trending Topics
#8
Originally posted by bitkahuna
We've had this debate before, but I don't accept that it's possible to make the ride cushy and keep the handling performance. I've been in a car with Daizen sways and there's more body roll than mine.
We've had this debate before, but I don't accept that it's possible to make the ride cushy and keep the handling performance. I've been in a car with Daizen sways and there's more body roll than mine.
I probably shouldn't debate in my own thread but, the statement above confuses me.. (and something Neo mentioned as well)
The mention of the body roll above would be affected by the other cars' springs as well, wouldn't it?
From what I recall from reading stuff from Herb Adams and **** Guldstrand, you can have a 'decent' ride quality and also outstanding cornering simultaneiously. (subjective, of course) I was swayed into believing that it's all in picking the proper components and torsional strength or spring rate to match your cars weight and rim/tire choice.
ie. you can have medium rate springs and good shocks for a good ride. That's purely a 'verticle' force when driving in a straight line.
You would then increase cornering G's further with swaybars and/or progressive rate springs, right?
when entering a turn, you obviously have that horizontal force to add to vertical force in the equation and that is where a swaybar and the progressive rate of a spring come into play. From what I recall, it is possible to have too large/stiff of a front swaybar, but I didn't recall them saying it affected straight line ride quality.
Also, I guess lots of folks tend to go too far on spring rate thus making the ride excellent cornering, but, also stiff riding.
I'm here to learn, but that is the info that I recall from long ago.
#9
The One
iTrader: (3)
BA_GS400,
Here is some reading to refresh your memory:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...threadid=87597
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...threadid=97288
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...threadid=87886
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...threadid=66672
These review comparison threads always seem to degenerate to p*ssing contests. This is why I am (and I assume Bit is also) reluctant to rehash the topic. Read them for the info (if you have not). Some of the data reinforce the info that you recall in your post.
Here is some reading to refresh your memory:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...threadid=87597
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...threadid=97288
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...threadid=87886
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...threadid=66672
These review comparison threads always seem to degenerate to p*ssing contests. This is why I am (and I assume Bit is also) reluctant to rehash the topic. Read them for the info (if you have not). Some of the data reinforce the info that you recall in your post.
Last edited by Neo; 09-13-04 at 09:24 PM.
#10
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (20)
I'm with Neo, not going to rehash. We all agree that a car's overall ride quality and handling capability are not just about one component but how they all work together. Plus different people want different things.
Last edited by bitkahuna; 09-14-04 at 06:53 PM.
#11
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
i guess i will add alittle tidbit here
from the research i have done to better understand torsional stiffness and how it affects ride and performance i have found that daizen had done their homework and testing prior to production.. they were able to acheive a balance through understanding that ride is equated to lessening the rigiditiy of the bar itself while maintaining the perf aspect through the use of polyurethene bushings which will give max deflection which is where the secret ingredient is.. trd relies on a heavy stiff bar which is great for true track like conditions with perfectly smooth lanes..
balance is the key to any good suspension setup . one has to embrace the reality that some tradeoffs and compromises come into to play when trying to acheive a desired objective.. you cannot expect to have a comfy smooth lexus oem like ride and truly make a canyon carver but you can acheive a certain balance between the 2 depending on the mix of components used . how far you want the bias to go will determine what side of the spectrum you will land..
example , when i had my ltuned springs with bilstein sport shocks the ride was good but tended to be stiff and really balanced for the amount of perf i garnered from it.. when i went to the bilstein pss coilover setup i was told by bilstein that the dampers are valved considerably firmer but the sprngs were a true progressive rated spring so that will add to straightline comfort as well as going over bumpy like road conditions but once pushed will respond immed. well after having them now for about 3weeks the ride is more comfortable , less jolting then the former setup but perf has increased 100% , i simply cannot induce body roll even with 60mph fast lane changes but as i stated before my ride got more comft.
bottom line is balance is the key , no one component should be given the task to do more then another
just my .2cents
from the research i have done to better understand torsional stiffness and how it affects ride and performance i have found that daizen had done their homework and testing prior to production.. they were able to acheive a balance through understanding that ride is equated to lessening the rigiditiy of the bar itself while maintaining the perf aspect through the use of polyurethene bushings which will give max deflection which is where the secret ingredient is.. trd relies on a heavy stiff bar which is great for true track like conditions with perfectly smooth lanes..
balance is the key to any good suspension setup . one has to embrace the reality that some tradeoffs and compromises come into to play when trying to acheive a desired objective.. you cannot expect to have a comfy smooth lexus oem like ride and truly make a canyon carver but you can acheive a certain balance between the 2 depending on the mix of components used . how far you want the bias to go will determine what side of the spectrum you will land..
example , when i had my ltuned springs with bilstein sport shocks the ride was good but tended to be stiff and really balanced for the amount of perf i garnered from it.. when i went to the bilstein pss coilover setup i was told by bilstein that the dampers are valved considerably firmer but the sprngs were a true progressive rated spring so that will add to straightline comfort as well as going over bumpy like road conditions but once pushed will respond immed. well after having them now for about 3weeks the ride is more comfortable , less jolting then the former setup but perf has increased 100% , i simply cannot induce body roll even with 60mph fast lane changes but as i stated before my ride got more comft.
bottom line is balance is the key , no one component should be given the task to do more then another
just my .2cents
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post